Hey guys, this is NUSensei.
I’ve had a few requests to walk through how to assemble an arrow from start to finish,
and what better arrow to demonstrate this with than my new Easton X10s.
Normally, you can buy individual carbon arrows, but the top level carbon shafts like A/C/Es
and X10s are sold in a matching dozen.
Apart from the shafts, you need the following items.
For these X10s, I’m using pin nocks, which must be inserted into the end of the shaft,
though you can get regular push-in nocks for the more basic arrows.
The actual nocks I am using are Easton large-groove nocks, meant for the X10s.
The points I am using are the X10 bulge points.
Most are made from stainless steel, though you can go for tungsten points if you REALLY
want to throw money into your arrows.
These particular points are 100-grain break-off points, which are segmented so that you can
cut the point to reduce the weight to 90 or 80 grains, though most points don’t have this function.
The Easton points come with a small stick of hot-melt glue, though I use a different brand.
It’s worth noting that if you are using screw-in points, you will have to use inserts
like this one instead of a glue-in point.
For vanes, most people will use plastic fletches like these ones.
However, I will be using the spinnie-style vanes, in this case XS wings, which are often
preferred by more competitive shooters.
These are applied differently, but I’ll mention this a bit later.
I will also be applying wraps onto my arrows.
These are optional and most people don’t use them.
However, they do provide another way to personalise your arrow, and you can get nice designs or
custom prints.
To attach the vanes, you will need a fletching jig, such as this one.
You will also need tools, such as hot-melt glue, pliers, and a source of heat.
A blow torch, heat gun or alcohol burner work best, but my bedroom desk uses a candle.
The basic idea is to install the nocks and the points using the glue, so we’ll do that first.
Using pliers to hold the pin insert, I apply heat to the pin and the glue, allowing it
to melt.
Be generous in covering the insert.
Then, slide the insert into the shaft.
When the glue cools, it should be held in place.
Scrape off the excess glue later.
Do the same for the points.
Make sure to apply plenty of glue so that the point adheres to the shaft.
If you have a perfectly smooth insert, you can use sandpaper to roughen it, giving it
more surface area for the glue to stick to.
It’s important to not apply the flame directly to the carbon shaft, as that can damage the
structure of the carbon fibers.
With the point and pin done, I can scrape the excess glue off and place the nock on.
Since I am putting wraps onto my arrows, this is where I do so.
Peel the wrap, place it onto a flat surface, align the shaft with where you want it, firmly
press down and roll the shaft down so that the wrap goes around it.
Next are the vanes.
If you’re using straight plastic fletches, you need to use a jig and fletching glue to
attach the vanes, which you can see in more detail in this video.
Since I am using spinnies, I will need to apply double-sided tape.
This is normally done by using a jig to mark the lines on the shaft.
However, I will be using this tool – the Skyliner – to get this done quicker.
The arrow is placed into this tool, which clamps around the shaft and is secured in place.
This particular item is a 3D-printed version sent in to me by Skyler from 3D Printed Archery,
and is a much cheaper alternative to commercial products, but a little cruder to use.
Once the tool is secured, I can now mark the shaft for the tape.
However, I am going to take a shortcut by applying the tape directly onto the shaft
without marking them.
The tool is removed, leaving me with three strips of perfectly aligned double-sided tape.
I then peel the top layer of this tape to expose the adhesive.
I carefully align the vanes and press firmly.
Using the anchor tape that comes with the spinnies, I secure the front and back of the
vanes by wrapping the tape around them.
The last thing I’m going to do is to put my name on the shaft.
Competition rules require you to have your initials written on the shaft, but instead
I use these clear stickers for a cleaner look.
If this is the first time you are using your arrows, it’s a good idea to leave one or
two as bare shafts so that you can do some tuning later.
Otherwise, your arrows are ready to go.
This is NUSensei.
I hope you’ve found this helpful, and I’ll see you next time.