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Rev up your engines!
It's time for the Scotty Kilmer Channel
is your vehicle's brake pedal sinking to the floor when you step on it, down she goes to the
floor, well then today's your lucky day, because I'm going to show you how to fix a
brake pedal that's sinking, now brake pedal sick for two main reasons,
they either loose pressure from an external or an internal leak, so the
first thing you do is crawl under the vehicle, look at the brake caliper to see if
it's leaking, or see if the rubber line is leaking, in this case they're dry, and of
course, you have to check all four wheels, front, and back, now the back brakes on
this Toyota are drum brakes, if they leak they'd be wet on the bottom, but the left
side is bone-dry, and so is the right side, so it's not
leaking back here, now of course you look under the vehicle to see if any of the
lines are leaking, but unless you live in an area where there's a lot of salt in
the winter, the lines don't generally rust, because they're made out of steel,
so that leaves us with the possible culprit of a leaking brake master
cylinder, that's leaking inside itself, and as you can see, this master cylinder
lost its cap, somebody put a piece of plastic, and when air gets into the
system, it often ruins the master cylinder seals,
so it's time to hop in the old car and get a new one, and here we are, and here's
a mechanic's tip, by a brand new quality master cylinder, don't buy a rebuilt one,
because the rebuilt ones don't last long, and sometimes don't even work right out
of the box, and the cheap Chinese knockoffs often aren't any good either,
in this case I got a brand new master cylinder, it's made in Japan because this
is a Toyota, now first you loosen the lines, in this
case it's a ten millimeter flare wrench, you just hit it a couple of times and
then it's loose, then finish taking a line off with your thumb and finger, and
pull it off, and of course do the same for the back line too, so you got them both
off, these flare wrenches are great for taking lines off, in this case it was a
10 millimeter flare wrench, then there's two bolts you have to take off, they're
12 millimeter, just stick on the socket and pull them off of the wrench,
just keep trying till you get the to bolts off, then do the other side, then
with a little wiggling the whole thing comes off, then get the new master
cylinder and bolt that on, it just fits over the two studs, and then bolts back
on, and now comes the tricky part, bleeding the air out of the lines, first
you fill it up with fluid, just take the top off and pour fluid in, then get the
brake lines and put them on and make them just a little bit loose, that's so
the air can bleed out when you step on the brake pedal, now I work by myself but
being a mechanic, I'd have power bleeding tools, you can use a screwdriver though
like this, with the brake lines open, you get the screwdriver, put it on the brake
pedal, then pull the seat up, that pushes the brake pedal down and
then you can tighten the lines, you just get a wrench and tighten them until they
don't tighten anymore, then when you pick up on the brake pedal it won't suck air
into the system, just pull it up, then loosen each line a couple of turns, and
then repeat the process with the screwdriver on the pedal, four or five
times until all the air is out, and now we got a nice hard pedal, hard as a rock,
so the next time your brake pedal has given you a sinking feeling, fix it
yourself, and remember if you have any car questions just visit Scotty Kilmer.com