hey everyone Rylis Productions here I'm doing a axle seal replacement here on
the CUDA just got back from Sonoma and we found out that the driver side axle
was leaking when we checked the wheel this is our tire
the there was a leak of the axle fluid onto the wheel so so the other side
isn't like this there's no splatter we thought its brake fluid the first one
is actually actual seal or fluid is was black so we're in the middle of
replacing the axle seals on the CUDA already took out the axle here from the
driver's side and it's 30 inches long stocky body length I was gonna show you
guys we have a Dr. Diff rear disc brake setup
and we already installed the song goodness all the gaskets we install the
seal already here's the old seal it's still pretty good still though the
spring wire still attached to it so but we use some Permatex Grey there's a
little bit of silicone sealant around this the seal itself we actually use the
upper ball joint tool to drive it in it's a great fit for it fits right in
there just hit it with a hammer goes in pretty deep so anyways we'll get on with
it here we are and in solid axle we used a syringe to lube up the tapered
bearings we use the tapered bearing because this is still the OEM original
axle and the tapered bearings are allowed stouter and stronger than the
sealed green bearings which is just the regular ball bearing the type of
bearings are a lot starter from the factory better for Road Race use. We
found out though that the adjuster a threaded adjuster that we have here is stripped so we can't go into the retaining plate when you try to adjust
the lash of the of the axle we called Dr. Diff about the this issue and he said
it's a pretty common occurrence because the plate and then the adjuster here was
made of very thin metal and it strips very easily so what he did is he
made up some 3/8 thick billet adjusters in a retaining plate that's a
lot thicker
he could have shipped those parts to us but there's a process to take off the
bearing collar correctly you have to use a grinder or a chop saw to cut it down
correctly and we just don't have the capability to do that yet and we don't
trust other shops around here locally so we're just going to take the axles and
ship them out to Cass and have him do it and trust them anyways and try to
give him our money so in the meantime there's all the tools that we use to
pull the seal out in the meantime I'll take out the passenger side and see how
that is I'm sure it's fine we'll show you how to disassemble a Dr. Diff
disk brake assembly and we'll pack these things up and ship them to Dr. Diff all
right
here we are on the passenger side of the CUDA about to take the wheel off and
we'll get it done
so just took off the wheel and ones affected there's a axle passenger side
there's a wheel itself as you can see there's no splatter
so it's not gunky like on the other side
no splatter from this end of the of the axle so the seal was pretty good but we
still have to pull the axle out just because Dr. Diff has to freshen new
bearings so well get on that as well so
I jacked up the car and made sure it's stable next step is to take off the
brakes okay so I took off the Dr. Diff rear wheel Ford Cobra brake caliper off
set that aside
Dr. Diff made a bracket an aluminum bracket for his kit which works really
good just adapts the Mustang brake caliper to
the Mopar application because four and a half inch by five bolt pattern so if
it's I modified it and use these extra beefy bolts
metric 10.9 the other bolts that Dr Diff had supplied originally had a
an Allen socket at the top and you couldn't really torque it down these I
talked a 45-50 foot-pounds and I had one back out on me and it wasn't great but
with these you can torque down put some red loctite and should be fun so I'm
gonna take off the axle now so the dr. diff kit uses these little
3/32nd screws to hold the brake line on to the aluminum bracket so you have to
take these off a little allen wrench and now is the moment of truth I'm gonna
pull the axle and I haven't pulled this side yet so here goes just get the axle
housing is drained of gear oil so there shouldn't be anything dripping but just
in case
here's the axle itself the guys who install this for me when I first had my
brakes done the shop installed all the gaskets
around this is uh it is incorrect so never gonna ever go to that shop
again that's why I do my own wrenching now just because I know I probably blame
myself I do a bad job but here's axle so pretty good condition
see the splines are so pristine see the bearings are still good so here's the
bearings this side doesn't have a retaining adjuster so it's
pretty caught up in there but bangs look good they're not blued out they still
spin really freely so I'm gonna ship this all to Dr. Diff and have him
replace these just in case these are probably the old 40 year old bearings I
get some made-in-the-usa Timken bearings installed and should be good for the
track
so we're gonna do a measurement of our axles here for the CUDA like said these
are 30 inches long CUDA our challenger
here's a top portion 31 at the spline
neck down is 33 it tapers to a thicker measurement every so often the main body
here is 36 millimeter and at the bottom of the body is 40, 39.5 let's get that
in inches for you American types 1.2 3 inches there at the spline 1.31 further
down is 1.4 one-inch the very bottom is
1.5 4 so there you have it I'll get these boxed up and shipped out
to talkative so here we are we're gonna knock out the old seal on this passenger
side axle use a big-ass chisel and big hammer works great you just hit it
around see there and yank that fucker out so this seal looks all gouged up
probably because of the end play the gesture ring was on a wasn't on the
other side and gouged all that but uh probably didn't leak so
there you go so here we are about to install the seal put some Permatex ultra
grey on on here this stuff's great I think it's made in US assembled in u.s.
it says USA yeah this does really high torque applications it comes on really
really thick it's hard to peel off once it dries into yours I think this is the
same stuff honda bond is made out of just repackaged mountain bond but uh
we're gonna drive this in get in there seal here what i used was a four ball
joint tool though width is pretty close to the seal itself this hammer way sure
it's in there so here we go we have the seal seated all the way in
i hit it a couple more times with a tool just to make sure it's seated yeah it
looks pretty good so that should be all the way in and i just to finish it off
just put a little extra
silicone in there just on the edge just to make a complete seal probably doesn't
eat it but whatever doesn't hurt it doesn't hurt either
so these are Dr Diff's aluminum brackets for his rear brake kit
I had cleaned em up with some brake cleaner they're all aluminum and I just
paint them just for corrosion protection so I'm gonna repaint them again this is
just a reference for me that this bracket is the passenger side it goes
like this with those screws on this side of the bracket and this is the driver's
side which installs like this with the screws on the bottom side of the bracket
so there you go and the snap of my fingers they'll turn Black! so that's it
for this video axles are on their way to Dr. Diff to be
upgraded with his retainer and bearings and all that so we'll continue
this video when the axles come back and we'll reinstall install them and go from
there that's how tire is supposed to be melted all right guys Rylis Productions
Rylis Productions out!
see you later