(techno music)
- Hey YouTube, Guy Smith here
and welcome to another video in the Integra series.
In this video, we're gonna demonstrate
how to apply base coat, this is Waterborne base coat.
Then we're gonna clear coat it.
But we're gonna show how to apply base coat
without using primer sealer.
But when doing this, there are some things
you gotta watch out for
and that's what we're gonna discuss in this video.
(rock music)
So we're getting this car wiped down
with some wax and grease remover
and getting ready to spray it.
We're gonna spray this, you asked about before
do we have to use primer sealer
and you don't, you don't have to have primer sealer.
But you do have to have the right grey shade.
And this primer surfacer is the correct grey shade.
And that's another method that you can use
if you're using primer surfacer that is the correct color
that is recommended, you can use that as well.
This does happen to be the right grey shade
that we was needed for primer sealer.
So rather than to try to shoot some primer sealer over that,
we're just gonna shoot base coat, waterborne base coat
straight on top of the primer surfacer.
Now there is something you gotta be careful about.
We blocked this out after we primed it
and it blocked really good.
There was no lows, highs or any type of imperfections.
We did not sand through the primer.
There's no bare metal spots, there's no,
we didn't sand through any other undercoating.
Because if you'd had done that,
there's a metal spot, what are
you gonna have to do with the metal?
You're probably gonna have to put a little
bit of self-etch primer.
If you sanded some other undercoating
that's a different color,
that spot's gonna show up.
'Cause it's not gonna be the correct grey shade.
What you could do, you could sprayed a little
bit more primer just on that spot, spot primer.
Sand it and then get it ready.
But it has to be all primer or the color of the car.
That's the only two colors that can be exposed.
Okay, now I've got a tack rag
and I'm just tacking it all off.
This just gets all the final dirt and lent
and things like that off so it doesn't
end up in the paint job.
It can be stuff from your clothes,
it can be arm hair, just things like that.
Just to make certain that you've gotten everything off.
Remember, you can use a tack rag through the process
if you find some dirt.
Until you get to the clear.
Another trick that I've used a lot
in the paint booth, I usually have some tweezers.
If you find something, a lot of times
even in the clear coat, a hair if you can grab a hold of,
you can pull it out and that works well.
I don't know what happened,
had a little problems with this video.
That's the thing about it,
you don't know it until after you're done.
It will clear back up, I know it's a little fuzzy right now.
But what I'm doing is I'm putting the first coat
of base coat on there.
This is the Waterborne base coat.
I've gotta air dry it off just like with any Waterborne,
it needs a little bit of help drying.
It will dry on its own but it takes a long time.
Some booths are set up to do this automatically.
You can just flip a switch and turn some fans on.
We're not set up for that so we have to use the handheld.
It's still really pretty fast.
I mean you can
put a coat on and dry it off
real fast.
Now this does, if it's really humid, it's gonna take longer.
That does kinda take a toll
on Waterborne as far as dry time.
Really, it dries fast if you use the air.
Now what we're doing, we're just recirculating
the airflow that's in the booth.
We don't wanna get right up on the paint
trying to dry that like you would
a hairdryer to your hair or anything like that.
If you get too close, you might ripple that paint
whenever it's still real wet.
So you just kinda wanna stand back.
You're using the airflow from the booth to
mix that up to help that dry as well.
Getting that dried up and again, I apologize for this
video coming out fuzzy during this part.
I'm not sure what had happened,
if I bumped the camera or something got on it, I don't know.
It does clear up here in just a little bit.
Again I apologize about that.
I kinda wanted you to see the drying process.
If you look at it there, you can kinda see
even though it's really fuzzy,
you can kinda see how it dries.
Once that wet look goes away,
this Waterborne, it dries different than solvent.
Solvent dries from the outside in.
Well this Waterborne dries from the inside out
so once that's dry, you can sand it,
you can tack it, it's basically dry.
That's why with solvents it's very easy
to get solvent popped because the outside dries
kinda skims over.
And then you may have solvents trapped inside there
that can't get out until a later time.
Then finally, it does make its way out
but then it leaves a little pin hole
where it escapes.
Waterborne is the opposite.
It dries from the inside out.
I've got a coat, one coat on there.
This is paint, even though it's metallic,
surprisingly it's covering real good.
That first coat covered real well.
Seems like with some colors of Waterborne, it covers better
and then some colors it doesn't cover as well as solvent.
It's just something you have to experiment with.
And see which colors,
every painter knows there's
certain colors they're gonna have problems with.
Some of the yellows, even though they're not metallic,
some of those don't hide real good,
they don't cover real good.
All the metallics and silvers, of course they're
not gonna hide real well.
I'm just coming back with another coat,
going out a little further than I did with the first coat.
Then I'm gonna have to dry it again.
Hopefully, I think this does, hopefully this clears up
for ya in a little bit.
I didn't really wanna take all this out
because I left a lot of the steps of what I'm doing.
There we go, that looks much, much better.
Now I'm putting on a tight coat,
that's where I lower the air pressure.
I give it a full pattern
and kinda do it quick, fast pass.
You wanna do your passes tight,
your overlap tight but you wanna move really fast
and you want your gun about 12 to 18 inches away.
This just kinda fogs a coat on
to kinda help lock the metallic.
That's something you really need to do with Waterborne.
Solvent you don't really have to do that.
These control coats, you really need to do that
with the Waterborne paint or PPG's anyway.
The envirol based.
If you don't, it's just gonna come out real
motley looking.
Yeah, just lower your air pressure,
wide pattern, what we're wanting to do
is just land some of that metallic evenly on top.
Getting it dried off again.
Okay, now I have started the clear coat.
So I'm putting a coat of clear
starting on the hood over there.
Getting to can't see that real good.
I'll get over here on the other side
and you'll be able to see it better.
Well then probably I'll be in the way
when we get over here.
This footage was from a long time ago.
I'm always trying to improve these videos.
With the clear coat, you just wanna put on nice even coats.
You want it really, really wet.
You know a full wet coat.
You want 50% overlap.
You want to make sure that you get all your gun angles right
and your speed to distance.
Like I say, I normally demonstrate
and teach to spray a little bit further away
because you have more control.
Then as you become more comfortable
with the spray gun, you might wanna move it
a little bit closer but you're gonna have to move faster.
The problem is, whenever you're right up there
next to the paneling painting real fast
and close to it,
if you hesitate or you mess up with your speed
just a little bit, you're gonna have a run.
I kinda demonstrate how to paint
a little bit further away
but you're gonna have to move your gun a little bit slower.
Getting the air outta the liner there
so I can spray different angles.
Didn't do that to begin with.
But spraying just takes practice.
Getting the speed right to your distance,
making sure you have correct overlap,
and the angles.
Once you get all that kinda working together,
painting becomes a lot easier.
It kinda becomes like driving a car,
you're nervous at first and you're thinking about it.
But then it kinda becomes second nature.
You kinda develop your own way of doing it.
Putting the second coat on.
This is the last coat I'm putting on on this video.
Again, I don't know what happened
'cause I'm pretty sure I remember this.
I was looking at the car
and this is what I usually do.
I usually try to shoot two coats, two coats of clear coat
and then if it looks good,
it doesn't look like I'm gonna need to buff any
and the shine looks good, I leave it there.
A lot of times I just put two full wet coats.
But if I look at it and there's some buffing I need to do
or there's some dirt that got in it
or maybe a sag or run or just kinda dry didn't,
just doesn't look the way I want it to look,
I'll come back with a third coat.
Just to level it out.
I think it was hot this day, really, really hot
and I felt like I just wanted this
clear to level a little bit better.
Again, I don't know what happened to the footage to that.
But after this coat, I did come back,
I put a little bit extra reducer in there
just to help that flow out,
that last coat flow out a little bit.
And I put a third coat on.
That's something you're just gonna have to do as you go.
Kind of a judgement thing.
After two coats, if it doesn't look good after two coats,
that's what it's gonna look like when it's dry too.
That's just something to kinda think about.
You think, man it needs one more
just to flow this clear coat out a little bit,
make it look a little glossier or a little shinier.
Then go ahead and come back and put a third coat on.
It'll be well worth it.
A lot faster to do that then trying
to buff the entire panel if you didn't need to.
Just put that extra coat on,
get it flowed out right.
Or if you're buffing, that gives you a little extra
to buff to, to sand and buff.
Well that wraps it up for this video.
There are a couple things I wanna mention.
If you're gonna be using this method,
not using primer sealer,
make sure that your primer surfacer
is the correct grey shade.
For example, you look up the paint color code
and it'll tell you what shade should be under that.
They got different primer surfacer colors as well.
Make sure that it's the correct grey shade.
You can't just use any primer underneath
and paint on top of it and expect it not
to match well.
The second thing is
make sure you don't sand through.
This goes for the painted area
or where you primed at.
Make sure there's not sand through spots
'cause if there is,
probably gonna have
an area there that's showing undercoating
that's a different color
or maybe you sanded through on the primer,
you sanded through to the metal or whatever.
Where that different color's at,
after you're done painting
and you pull it outside,
you're probably gonna see that spot.
It's gonna look like
a stain there.
That's what it is.
You're just seeing through that
and it's not the correct grey shade underneath.
It's just throwing it off, making it look different.
So if you'll do those things,
make sure you got the correct grey shade
and do not sand through.
If you do sand through,
you're gonna have to get some of the primer surfacer,
spray that spot, just spot prime it
and then sand it again.
That's the one drawback if you use this method.
I mean the primer's gotta block out basically perfect.
You can't
have any sand throughs or anything like that.
But it does work well if you choose to use this method.
As always, I really appreciate
you for watching these videos.
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And remember, if something's worth doing, do your best
and have a blast doing it.
Thanks for watching, take care
and we'll see you in the next video.
(rock music)