Most of them are all fairly similar, there's some that need a little bit different, you
know, requirements as far as temperature goes. These right here are Epipedobates anthonyi. These I
raised up from some tadpoles that - somebody actually that was on the East Coast, they came
here, I guess they had relatives, but when that big hurricane came through, and they just
left the tadpoles, so I went ahead and raised them up and, but there's 15 in here. I still have some
at home that are not quite this size yet. Mainly I fed these pinhead crickets and melanogaster fruit
flies, and as they got bigger these will take hydei fruit flies and 1/8th inch crickets. This locale is
Santa Isabel and these are from Ecuador and Peru. Common name is Anthony's dart frog or phantasmal
dart frog. The temperature on these is 65F to 80F, but more so like in the mid to low, mid 70s, but if they
get over 85F or over, then that can be lethal. So these are, a lot of the temperature is very
critical on dart frogs, so you have to research the species you're keeping, but most of the time 70F to
80F is fairly optimal for them. I would say like mid-70's. But they don't need UVB, I mean you
can put UVB on them, but that requires a screen and these like an 80 to a 100 percent
humidity. These only get about an inch, so they stay small, they're a good beginner dart frog. And
again, melanogaster fruit flies, hydei fruit flies, and you know, pinhead to 1/8th inch crickets. These
can live over 10 years in optimal captive care, but 5 to 8 is more the norm. And they
say you can put 2 to 3 in a 10-gallon, but preferably a little bit larger tank would be more
optimal. 6 to 8 of them can go in a 20 high, which to me personally if I was going to keep the
species again and breed them, that's what I would do, because they're very social. The males
are very bold, they call all the time, and when these get a little bit more size on them, and they
start reaching sexual maturity these will call all the time, and it's, frog calls are really cool. I
mean some people, I mean there's some frogs that are pretty obnoxious, their call.
But, uh. But yeah, these are,
these are really cool. Cage decor basically, pothos, philodendron, just your kind of your
typical terrarium plants. These aren't real big, so you don't need, these won't damage the leaves.
There's some plants that are kind of fragile, and a lot of times frogs will lay on them, and
kind of crush them and that, but that's more so for the larger species, like tinctorius, and the Phyllobates,
like terribilis and bicolor. Mainly what we have in here, I'm not sure exactly what kind of
plants these are, but something like this is fine, and bromeliads obviously because dart frogs love
bromeliads, and they'll hang out in the leaves. And if you do breed them they, they usually lay
their eggs in either the leaf litter or on a leaf, and the males, the males will guard them and once
they hatch, the males will, the tadpoles will go on the male's back, and then he will transfer them. In
the wild, it'd be like a stream or you know, a small pool of water. These, when I bred them, I usually
just use like a petri dish, and I put a little bit of water in there, and as the male deposits
them, then I would take them and, and put them in separate kind of container for the dart, for the
tadpoles to morph out. These guys will - they'll spring out. Yeah they, and they're fragile, so you
do not want to handle them if at all possible, and if you do I would say wear nitrile gloves,
not latex, because a lot of them have powder and some people are allergic to latex. So if I ever
handle any of my frogs, have to, I usually use the nitrile gloves. They're like, huh? What is this? Freedom!
Okay, just gotta watch. No, no, no you don't.
And you want to spray them depending on, my dart frog cages are usually a half glass lid, so the
moisture retains in there, but I spray them every few days, just enough to wet the leaves and that's
it. If you're using UVB with a screen, then you want to mist them probably daily. Just monitor it
because if you got condensation on the sides, the humidity is pretty good, but you just definitely
want to, you know, monitor that because if they get too dry, they will die pretty quick. Like I
said they're pretty fragile. But then, uh, some of the other dart frogs that we have, like the
bumblebees, those are the leucomelas, and those are a good beginner dart frog. Basically the same
care, same temperature, same way with - well, these are Mantellas. Mantellas are a little bit more picky
about their temperature, and then the azureus, the blue ones, those are pretty common, those are a good
beginner dart frog, and the powder blues, and then there's just a whole bunch of different dart frogs.
Now, this is kind of a touchy subject, but a lot of people that are really serious into the dart
frogs, they do not like hybridizing different locales, because a lot of the dart frogs are
critically endangered and not extinct in the wild. So, they try to preserve that bloodline
in case they decide to try to reintroduce them, they don't want something that has different, you
know, locales and stuff like that. Which I never I never did it, I know there's some people that do,
but I mean that's a personal thing to me. I think it's unethical, but that's just me. Thanks
for sharing your poison dart frog and arrow frog knowledge with us Bill. Well, no problem, you all have a great day.