what's up guys it's jeff ray featured guest host here with well.com on today's
episode we have a viewer's request where they'd like to see some walk
in the cup on a piece of six-inch carbon steel schedule 40 pipe so let's get at it
on today's episode we're going to be welding this piece of six inch schedule 40 carbon steel pipe
we're gonna go through the different techniques of walking the cup when i'm putting the root in
as that cup walks down in the groove and then as it fills up and that technique will change
and then also putting a cap on this thing so i've got it prepped and ready i'm gonna go through
tacking this thing get the machine turned on and set up and then we'll get this thing welded out
now that everything's cleaned beveled and ready to tack i just want to talk about my grinding process
for a second when uh creating this bevel here you've seen i had a roll technique that i was
using with the face of the grinder it helps to be real proficient with learning that technique
to be able to execute that perfect angle that we want on the bevels here as you see my degree
finder shows 37 and a half degrees which is exactly what we want and just from doing this
over the years i've become real proficient at being able to make nice clean bevels like this
at the right degree so these things are ready to tack now go ahead and get the machine turned
on go through my settings get the route started in this thing so let's get at it
got the argon on we're gonna be running 100 straight argon on this the machine turned
on we're utilizing the everlast power tig 210 ext today machine is already set
on dc we're utilizing the foot pedal high freak tig start turn the amps up to about 92
that should be pretty good to start with so let's get the hood on we'll get this thing tacked
together both pieces are prepped got a piece of 332 wire bent in a v that's going to allow us to
attack this i'm going to run a 332 gap i've got a 1 16 landing on the face of this let's get it
so when you're attacking this stuff with it being open like that it's going to want to draw close
and usually when it draws close on my wire i can usually just give it a tap
and it'll pull out that's not the case this time so i had to feather the tack a little bit
there she goes so we got two more tacks burned in here get this root laid in this thing
got all the tacks made now i'm gonna go ahead and chuck it up here in the bench
get this thing welded out we'll start here this tack that we've already got feathered down
bring it up we're gonna quarter this thing i'll talk about the techniques that i'm using
while walking in the groove gonna use a number nine torch with a number seven gas lens cup on
there i want a smaller cup so it fits in the groove then as it starts to fill up and i have
a bigger weave i'll change to a bigger cup to help with that from looking at my tacks
i need a little bit more heat this pipe is pretty thick so i'm gonna come over here
turn it up about five six more amps get these things burned in here get this root burned in
uh
so we got the first root in there i'm going to go ahead and spin this thing
we're going to quarter it out get the next one put in there
got those feathered down with the file there looks like i'm going to need a little bit more heat
i haven't welded carbon steel pipe this big in a while so i forget all my heat settings i did burn
through about half of it but i do need a little bit more heat so i like the smaller diameter cup
it lays in the groove better for a nice walk in there it was catching a little bit it was a little
hiccupy but that just happened sometimes so it just takes some practice you want to be real loose
i take the torch and i wrap my hand under and around because i don't like the weight of this
playing when i'm walking so that's not the case it's just catching a little bit on that
edge there yeah let's get this next root laid in there and see if we can burn it in a little better
it took me until the fourth quarter to really get this root burned in here real nice it took me to
getting up to 110 amps for it to burn in there it takes practice to know your heats what size gap
you want in there how well you can walk in the cup in that groove or if you're going to freehand it
in this case we're walking it so now we're going to go ahead and start filling this thing up the
technique will change a little bit as it starts to fill up that bottom of that cup will be resting on
a flat plane and not just at the top edge of the groove there we're going to turn the heat up get
this hot pass burnt in there probably turn it up to 130 or so see how that flows so let's get at it
i got the hot pass made went really well i think i know why my cup was hanging up so much
on the edge to edge there is i don't walk the cup a lot anymore until you start to really put some
wear on this and this thing's had some heat cycles through it it'll really start to glide on there
so now that i've put a little bit of material on there and it's you know got worked on it
actually is walking a lot better now we're going to go ahead and put the fill on there and flush
this thing out so i'm going to put on the bigger cup i've got a jazzy 10 here that i'm gonna use
so we got our cup on there now we got it changed out we're ready to fill this thing out
it's gonna start to flush out and we're actually gonna be walking on the cup and not on those outer
edges of the bevel so we'll get this thing flushed out and then get it capped out so let's get at it
so
we got the fill all filled up now we're ready for the cap i don't have any more
eighth inch wire as well as i don't like using eighth inch wire when tapping it out
it just takes too much heat to move the amount of material there so what i'm going to do is
i'm going to utilize two pieces of 332 wire it just flows a lot better for me i got the
machine turned up about five more amps just to help this thing really wet in there and
flow really nice once i get done with the weld i'll go into the technique a little
bit more about what i'm looking for when walking the cup here so let's get at it
so
we got this thing capped out now it looks amazing flowed real nice i want to talk about what i'm
looking for when i'm capping this out so the edge of the puddle here where it wets into the pipe
that's all i'm watching is the edge of that puddle falling to each side i don't worry about the wire
how close my tungsten is nothing like that i've just learned that over time so i'll just watch it
fall to each side and you can see pretty consistent almost straight if you get it
really good and tight that line will be straight and you won't have any little nubbies on the
side there but other than that it looks great if you're not used to walking the cup on a piece of
pipe and not scooting in that groove and actually walking it you can take a piece of tape and lay it
on the pipe pipe's too hot to lay tape on right now but it'll actually show you the steps in it
so you can figure out how to do that and it'll actually leave those edges which you can see
it in the weld profile it actually has a little not groove cut in it but you can see the etching
that this just leaves from walking on top of that weld and this is a good technique you can
use to practice walking the cup it's a little bit different than when the pipe is actually hot and
the cup is on there things can be slipperier or not so slippery but it just depends on how new the
cup is and how new you are to it being comfortable and laxed in your arm you can't put a lot of
pressure in there or you'll slip so just something to be aware of that wraps it up on this episode of
walking the cup on this piece of six inch carbon pipe i hope some of these techniques and tips that
i've shown you today could be of help let us know in the comments below some techniques or tips that
you guys use i'm walking the cup until next time head over to weld.com where you can get connected
with us directly through the members section or head over to the members forum where you can
ask questions and our advisors will gladly help you thanks for watching we'll see you next time