(RAM clicks)
(film crackles)
- (whispering) Hello, YouTube.
Today we're going to be sharing with you
our ASMR PC build guide, sponsored by EPOS,
the brand for Demant and Sennheiser's
previous collaborative effort
to build high-end gaming audio solutions.
We'll be using their B20 USB Type-C mic
for our voice recordings today.
So sit back, relax,
and enjoy the sound of PC building.
And look, I've brought some friends to help out.
- Hi, guys.
- Hi.
- Hello.
- Hey.
- Hello.
- Let's get started.
(computer gently chirps)
(air whooshing softly)
We need our usual tools:
multi-bit screwdriver,
side cutters,
magnetic parts tray,
anti-static ankle strap,
and cable ties.
Attach your anti-static strap to your ankle or wrist
and then ground yourself to a plugged in,
but powered off, power supply.
Be careful. We don't want to shock any of our components.
(clock ticking)
- [Linus] We're going AMD, and it all starts here
with the ASUS Prime B550-Plus.
It's a great fit for your budget today,
while leaving space to upgrade
when you feel like you're ready.
Remove it from the box,
then place the motherboard on top of the box
after you've removed all the extra contents,
like your I/O shield, SATA cable, and M.2 screw.
The box is a perfect static-safe workspace
for pre-testing your hardware.
Now get your board ready for the next step
by lifting the latch on the CPU socket.
(Zippo clinks)
Always open your CPU box carefully.
AMD's Ryzen 5 3600 features six Zen 2 cores
at up to 4.2 gigahertz boost
and we'd hate for you to damage them.
For AMD CPUs, the lettering always matches
right-side up with the logo at the socket.
Alternately, you can match the golden triangle
with your board to make sure it seats properly.
When you're ready, gently press it into place.
Give it a wiggle to make sure it went all the way in,
then close and lock the latch.
This last part can be a little scary,
but as long as you follow our instructions,
I promise it'll be okay.
(water gently splashing)
- To match our Ryzen processor
and to stay ready for potential future upgrades,
we're installing two 8-gig sticks
of 3600 megahertz CL16 memory.
It was only an additional $10 over the 3200 megahertz option
and no RGB saved us a few dollars.
After all, today's about sounding good
rather than looking good.
Open slots A2 and B2 on your motherboard.
Remove the modules from their packaging.
Line up the notch on the bottom of the module,
then slot them in gently, but firmly
until you hear a distinctive click.
(RAM clicks) Ooh, that's nice.
(zipper zips)
- Sabrent's 1-terabyte Rocket NVMe SSD
is a great value, especially on sale.
And our 2-terabyte Seagate hard drive
is perfect for all thick games we're gonna install.
We'll do the SSD now and the hard drive later.
Find your M.2 standoff
that we grabbed from our motherboard box
and place it in the 80-millimeter slot.
Then remove your drive from its packaging
and gently slide the notched connection into the M.2 slot.
Hold the end down and screw it in
with this teeny, tiny M.2 screw.
(keys faintly clacking)
- [Yvonne] Our board comes with handy mounts
for our cooler to latch onto,
but we're going to use the Hyper 212's
mounting hardware instead.
Start by remove the backplate and standoffs
by removing these four screws here, here, here, and here.
Then simply pull the brackets from the backplate.
Next, remove our Hyper 212 from its packaging
and grab the required AM4 hardware.
Place the squared standoffs into the AMD holes, like so.
Then place the wider clips over top.
Place the prepped backplate on the back of your board,
then screw on the standoffs to keep it in place.
Now take the two AM4 brackets
and place them over the standoffs like so
and fasten them down with the nuts,
making sure to keep the Phillips pattern on top.
Remove the fan and heat sink from the box.
Peel the plastic off the bottom
and remove the fan from the heat sink
for an easier installation.
Squeeze a pea-sized drop of thermal paste
onto the middle of the CPU heat spreader.
Align your cooler so the screws line up with the brackets
and screw them down until it's nice and snug.
There, that's not going anywhere.
Mount your fan by letting the clips
rest along these sides here
and connect your fan to the CPU header
at the top of the board.
(bristles softly swish)
- The Phanteks P series is a great budget option
that still gives you everything you need in a case:
tempered glass side panel, rubber grommets,
good airflow, plenty of space to work in,
and great cable management.
You can save a bit of money
by going with their last year's model,
like we did with their P400A Digital.
Open the top of the fox, flip it over
and onto the floor or table, whatever's easiest.
Then slide the box off.
Remove the extra protective packaging
and stand your case upright.
Remove the glass panel and side panel
and place it back in the box for now so it's nice and safe.
The other side panel should be okay just about anywhere.
With the panels removed,
unstrap all the cables in the back
and pull them out of the way for now,
then lay your case on its side.
Our standoffs come preinstalled,
but if you're using a different case,
make sure to check the manual and put them in.
Not too many, though.
Now, before we forget, install the I/O shield
by pressing firmly and clicking it into place.
This cannot be done later if you forget now,
unless you want to take your motherboard
out of the case again.
Grab your board and align it
with the standoffs and the I/O shield,
ensuring that no tabs are sticking into the ports.
Once it's in place,
screw it down with these mounting screws.
Great job, we're really getting there.
Take your hard drive from earlier
and place it in one of the 3.5" bays
at the bottom of the case, like so.
(shutter clicking)
- [James] Our 650-watt modular power supply comes from EVGA,
the G6 80 Plus Gold.
You can save some money by going semi- or non-modular,
but you could end up with some extra clutter.
Open the box and take out your PSU and its cables.
Separate the ATX 24-pin, EPS CPU 8-pin,
PCIe 8-pin, and SATA power connectors.
Plug these into the back of your power supply.
Don't force them.
These can only go into your unit one way,
so if there's too much resistance,
you might have done it backwards, you silly goose.
With your cables attached,
slide the power supply in sideways
and pull your cables out of the way.
Take your four power supply screws
and screw it in here, here, here, and here.
Buh-bye!
(flame fizzles)
- Let's start with our larger cables first, shall we?
Feed the ATX 24-pin cable through the top rubber grommet
and plug it in here.
Remove any slack and stuff it under the power supply shroud.
Good.
Next, let's grab our 8-pin EPS cable
and route it through the top cutout, near the plug.
This can take a little while, but with some patience,
you'll get it through.
Plug it in,
then route the cable along the top and down the side,
tucking it out of the way.
Now route your PCIe 8-pin cable through the rubber grommet
and leave it hanging it roughly where your GPU will be.
Graphics cards often get in the way,
so we'll put in last and plug it in after.
Now it's time to connect your case fans.
The best bet for an easy and clean look
is to buy a three-to-one 4-pin fan splitter.
Connect all three to the splitter
and then connect the splitter to an extension.
And finally, the extension to the chassis fan header
on the bottom of the board.
This is a lot easier than water cooling,
but for tips on how to do your own hardline tubing,
make sure to get subscribed
so you don't miss out on our beginner's guide.
While we're here,
let's plug in our HD audio cable here
and our USB 3.0 cable here.
Connect your front panel headers
in the proper configuration, like so,
and we're nearly done.
Remember our hard drive?
It's time to connect the SATA power
and SATA data cables to the back of it.
Then route the data cable up
through the bottom of the rubber grommet
and into one of the SATA ports.
Make sure you put it in the middle or top slots, though,
as the bottom one gets disabled
when you're using the second M.2 slot
and you may want to populate it down the line.
Once everything is connected,
use ties or zip ties to strap down any stray cables,
trying to bundle them up for a cleaner look.
If you want to get lazy, that's okay.
Wiring mullets aren't the worst thing in the world,
as long as the front looks pretty.
- We know these are hard to come by right now,
but if you can manage to get one anywhere close to MSRP,
an RTX 3060 is a fantastic choice
for 1440p gaming with the Ryzen 5 3600.
Open the box, remove the card from its ESD bag,
and gently place it down.
Remove the two slot covers here and here,
as well as the adjustable cover on the side.
Make sure the locking tab on the slot is open,
then grab the card and gently push it into the slot
until you see the lock close.
It should make a little click.
Replace the PCI Express slot cover screws
to hold it into place,
reattach the adjustable piece,
then plug in that final loose PCI Express power cable.
Now all that's left is to replace our panels,
connect our monitor, mouse, and keyboard, and turn it on.
Ah. I love the sound of a successful first boot.
(PC hums)
Wasn't that easy?
Are you as satisfied as I am
with this beautiful new machine?
I hope you enjoy the clicks and whirs
as it processes your every desire.
Listen to that faint hum
as the hard drives and fans power on.
(moans softly) Exquisite.
If you like how my voice sounds now
and throughout the video,
check out the new B20 from EPOS.
We recorded every word on it using the cardioid pattern,
but it has three others
for all sorts of recording scenarios.
And you can tune the EQ to your liking
with their digital Gaming Suite software.
And hey, four physical knobs on the device
means you can change some settings without even looking.
That's handy.
If you're a streamer or a creator
looking for an alternative to existing USB mics,
look for it in the description below.
It features Nordic design, premium construction,
and the high-quality audio you've been listening to
for the past 10 minutes.
If you enjoyed listening today,
but you want to go Intel instead of AMD for your own rig,
check out our first-person-view build guide
for tips on dealing with LGA sockets.
It's 40 minutes long, though,
so strap in for a bit of a long ride.