So in this video what I want to show you is the names of all the members that make up a wall frame and
In the process a or my preferred construction sequence
More than now the way I go about putting it together, so this is our completed wall frame
I've chosen this one because it has most of the members in it
and
here are
all the names we'll go through these individually shortly, and I'll put this slide up end, but if you want you can pause
and have a look at that one, but anyway
let's kick on so as I said I'll do this in the way that I would normally
construct the frame
So to start with that frame we need to start with our
bottom plate and
Our top plate, so obviously these will be the horizontal members
One that runs along on the floor the other one runs along the top of the wall
Now in between the plates
Running from plate to plate. We're going to have
Studs now. There's about three, four different types of studs
Depending and the only thing that changes is the actual
position of where they go, so the first ones, I throw in are the ones on the end
Which are what we call corner studs
This set here are going to form the corner for the wall running at 90 degrees
This stud here
Will be where the two wall frames join that may be at another intersection, or they could just be another wall continuing straight on
So first studs that I always showing are the intersection studs
then
Sorry while we do this, these two studs here generally we throw some blocking in because it's so close together
And we won't be able to get a noggin in you'll see that a little bit later. We throw in some blocks
About 300mm no shorter
Sort of 300 more minimum blocks just to hold those to studs apart
Also gives us somewhere else to nail when we throw the wall on this end
then I've put in my
full-length studs on my window jamb studs
the guy on my window and
I throw in my door studs as
Well these two sets of studs
should be the straightest studs that you've got because if you then get nice straight studs in these positions
When you go to put your door jamb in and your window
You're going to have a lot of trouble with your architrave trying to get your door into wind and that sort of thing, so
make these sets of studs the
straightest ones you can lay your hands on you also notice at the top of the door where the trim is going to go I've
Checked that in about 10mm to take the window head
that's my personal preference, so
Yeah
Okay, so there the door studs
You can then throw in the remaining studs. So these are called the common studs, so in this wall I've only got two common studs
Which is that one and that one
But in other walls I mean the entire wall except for the ones on the end
could be common stance so common studs just run from top to bottom
same as all the rest, but they don't have a a
roll or they're not in a position to do anything
they're just going to transfer the weight off of the of the roof
So that's all my full length studs
so next I'm going to put in my
Lintels and to take my Lintels I need to put in a
jamb stud from a window
so
Here I've got a secondary stud
called a Jamb Stud and my lintel
sits on top of
those so these two studs here are
supporting the weight of the Lintel directly and
Depending on the timber that you're using in the span of the lintel you may need to have 1, 2 or even 3 of these
studs underneath the Lintel
Okay, so this is your lintel this
is just another piece of your framing material so whatever your
starts were whether they're 90 x 35, 90 x 45
Just run another piece of that under the lintel
Just so if you've got a lining on the outside if you doing weatherboards on the outside
It gives you somewhere to support to nail off the weatherboards
Okay, so that's your lintel and your Jamb studs
Your Window sill trimmer
a lot of people just call it a sill, but it's a sill trimmer it runs the width of the window and
we're generally then if we need a secondary stud under a head we put a star in between
the Lintel and the Trimmer and
then later on we'll put a jack stud under here the transfer the weight from the roof, from the top plate
all the way through to the floor
continuing with our horizontal members our door trimmer, door head trimmer in there and
Then we can now we've got all these horizontal pieces in we can put in our
Jack studs so any stud
That doesn't run from top plate to bottom plate
It's a little bit shorter is referred to as a jack stud. So the one above the doorway here these doorways are generally
sort of 800 to 900 wide so that's wider than our standard spacing so we have to put our jack stud in there and
As I said before Jack stud
continuing that load path for that
secondary Jamb stud
continuing with our spacing underneath the window and another one on this side
and above the window. I've actually got another three Jack studs that are there to
just fill in the gap if we actually have that gap the other option is to move this lintel
All the way up to underneath the plate and then you can pack out these Jamb studs underneath the lintel
A lot of framing companies do it that way they just automatically put their lintels hard up under the plate
And then if they need to pack down from the lintel they just do it this frame it out
these particular studs
are just
Framing material on their flat. It's just quicker than trying to rebate a
L-shape out of this piece of timber to sit it over that just takes
once again if you going to put weatherboards on the on the exterior of this house
It gives us somewhere to attach to other boards to
Also for Brickwork if we go to tie the brick veneer in it gives us somewhere to put a veneer ties on
so that's Jack studs and
Then we have our noggins
so the standard spacing for our noggins is 1.350m and
Generally, what we do is we mark a line
Through the wall, and then we put one stud
Above the line one stud sorry one, noggin above the line and one noggin below the line
So that we can just drive the nails straight through and we don't need to skew them this makes it a stronger job
although in areas like this
Becomes a little bit difficult we have to skew
So noggins not studs, noggins
then we need to brace the wall, so what we do is have to check that it's square so we can measure from
corner to corner diagonally and
if those measurements are the same then the wall is square, and then we can attach a
Diagonal Brace
Such as this one now nowadays. They're commonly made of a
perforated Metal
but in the old days they were made of timber
as you can see it was a pretty tight fit to get this actual brace in the preferred angle for a brace is 45 degrees
they can't lay them any flatter than 30 degrees and
You can't stand them up any steeper than 60 degrees otherwise they lose their effectiveness
Now this wall was a little bit tight, but if we couldn't get a diagonal brace in
Then we can always use what they call a sheet brace
so this is just a a
specially made
Sheet of ply, or can be sheet a hard board, there are fiber cement products out there
that's actually made as a sheet brace and it's nailed to the frame and
it doesn't need to be a certain width just cut it to suit your stud work and
We generally try and keep our bracing on the external side of the wall
so it won't interfere with any internal linings or obviously if we're going to put a wall
Into this intersection, we don't want to have our brace between the the two walls that are joining otherwise
We'll try our building out by the thickness of the the brace sheet
So that's it is their wall constructed
Once again, there's all our names