- In this video, we're gonna talk about
marbilizer, the marbilizer effect,
and we're gonna talk about what grit of sandpaper
to use when sanding primer surfacer
and also about why you might see some sand scratches
after you've painted.
Yes, I've had some questions on YouTube
that I want to go over and answer for you,
and I also want to mention I'm going to thank each of you.
Very excited to announce that I did hit
my 100,000 mark,
100,000 subscribers.
I think have had over 30 million views,
and I appreciate each one of you for that.
It makes me feel proud
that I am able to help that many people
with their auto body and paint needs.
So kudos to everybody viewing this and any of my videos.
All right, I am gonna go to the YouTube
and look at some comments to go over.
And the first one is from Sylvia,
Andre Sylvia.
"Hi, I know nothing about painting, but I'm confused,
but I'm considering painting a guitar,
which is very similar process as painting a car.
I'm considering painting it candy cobalt blue,
which requires a silver layer beneath it.
Will it be able to recreate this effect?"
And what they're talking about, this is the
video where I was using House of Kolor mobilizer,
and it gives it a really cool effect.
If you haven't seen that video,
you know, I'll put a link down below,
but it does give it a really cool effect.
But what they're asking, you know,
can they just use the colors that they're wanting,
you know, a silver and the cobalt blue?
And my first suggestion would be to see
if House of Kolor makes anything that is
what you like, because I've only used House of Kolor.
Now, I'm not saying that you can't do this.
Hold on just a second.
But I've only used House of Kolor myself for marbilizer.
It works real well, and let me tell you why.
The marbilizer is a real slow dry
that gives you time to put the plastic on there,
you know, whatever design you're going for,
and be able to work it.
Now normal paint, you know, it may have a faster dry time.
I have heard of a lot of guys that do that, though.
They do put their base coat like the silver
and then the blue down.
On the candy coat, you'd want to use a real slow reducer,
'cause that's the,
the marbilizer dries real slow to allow you to do that.
And I wouldn't say just mask your car off
and go to doing that.
I always recommend on something like that, that, you know,
that you're not real sure of,
get you a little test panel and try it out first.
You know, just go ahead and spray your,
your sealer, your,
your silver and then the candy cobalt blue.
You know, put some plastic on it like in the video,
and see if it has the results that you want.
You know, I always recommend doing that before, you know,
spending a lot of money on materials
and doing that to your car,
or your guitar in this case.
I mean, it'd be a lot safer just to do it to a test panel.
If you like it, do it to the guitar.
And probably being such a small area,
you know, it's not like a car roof or anything,
it'd probably be a lot easier to get that plastic
on and off, you know, before the paint gets too dry.
But that's something you may have to test
with a little bit, and if any of you out there
have any recommendations for doing the marbilizing,
like we're talking about here without using
the House of Kolor marbilizer,
be sure to leave a comment down below.
We'd like to hear that.
One other thing I want to mention about that
is that I have never tried to use waterborne.
I mean, I've been using waterborne for a while
for OEM style, you know, collision type work.
All the marbilizer I've ever done has been in solvent,
so I'm not sure how waterborne would do.
I would probably, in my opinion, what I would do,
if I was testing this out, I would go with solvent.
So, you know, the solvent paints like House of Kolor has,
or whatever paint brand.
Every paint brand has solvents
and they have waterborne.
If I was going to do waterborne,
it would really be something I would test out
on a test panel and see how the effects work out.
All right, got another,
well, this is just a shout out for me
to Mustang Rebuilder.
Said, "From one YouTuber to another, thank you
and congrats on the 100k subs."
And I thank you for watching,
and I really appreciate each and every one of you,
and thanks for leaving the comment.
Okay, in one of the videos where I'm working with
Chevy crews, the window regulator goes out.
Now, let me say this, most of the time,
if your window quits rolling up and down,
it's gonna be the window regulator,
but it's not 100% every time.
You know, it could be electrical.
It could be the switch.
So, you know, there are some other options,
but in, you know, what I've found,
just about every time it is the window regulator.
But they say, "I can't get the window to go up,
to go up pulling it in front.
It's stuck at the bottom."
It may be stuck 'cause you can't get a hold of it good.
Or if, you know, if it is not moving up and down,
'cause usually if the regulator breaks,
you can shift that side glass up and down.
If it is, feels like it's in the track and not moving,
chances are, it might not be your regulator,
so you might have to check your electrical or your switch.
So that may be something for you to consider.
Okay, John Wilson says, "Great video."
And this is one about primer
and different types of primers.
Says, "You missed the window to apply 2K primer.
Do you need to use maroon scuff bright
or Scotch-Brite to prep surface for 2K?
What sandpaper would be a good choice if not?"
What we're talking about, you know,
epoxy can go on, and depending on the brand,
the ones I've used is usually 72 hours.
You got a 72 hour window.
So what that means is you can apply the epoxy,
and within 72 hours, you've got chemical adhesion.
You can, you can apply your base coat or whatever it is
you're gonna put on top of that without having to sand.
If it goes past that 72 hours,
you lost your chemical adhesion.
So now you're gonna have to provide
mechanical adhesion, which is sanding.
And if I was getting one ready to sand,
or one ready for 2K primer,
I mean you're gonna have to sand the 2K primer too.
The primer surfacer must be sanded.
You can't just spray that on and paint on top of that.
So I would say 220 would be fine, you know,
to sand that down, shoot some epoxy primer over it,
and then put your primer surfacer on top of that.
And then, of course, you'll have to block sand
your primer surfacer, your 2K primer,
and I'd probably use 320 grit with that
if you think it's pretty, pretty good.
You know, put some guide coat down,
block it out.
Once it all blocks out good, go back over it
with some 500 to minimize those 320 grit scratches
and get it ready for paint.
I had a similar question on Facebook,
and they was asking,
they sanded it all the way down to metal
and they put epoxy on,
and then they're gonna put 2K primer on, I believe.
What do you sand the 2K primer with?
Well, if it was an entire car,
I would start out with 220 grit.
It's a little bit coarser,
but it's gonna knock that down, you know.
Of course, use your guide coat,
and if it all sands out fine, then go with 320 grit.
You don't want to jump all the way to 500
to minimize the 220 grit.
And then final sand it with 500 grit,
and it should be ready for paint.
So hopefully that helps answer your questions.
Okay, the last question for today is
Alex says, "I've been going crazy trying to work out
why I can't get rid of visible scratch marks
from very fine wet, dry sandpaper.
Admittedly, they are only noticeable under LED lights,
and if you're looking for them,
but it's not a perfect finish.
Here's what I've done.
I've sanded clear coat on the hood
over reasonable looking base coat
to correct some of the very noticeable scratches,
part of a success, no problem.
But then I sanded the entire hood
in prep for a cut and polish.
I block sanded with 2,000 grit and 3,000 grit,
5,000 and 7,000.
I cut and polish with Meguiar's compound and polish.
Still I can see fine scratches.
My theory is that the Chinese sandpaper is poor quality
and not uniform.
I know 3,000 is good quality grade stuff.
Any thought?
If I flow coat the hood,
will that fill the scratches?"
Okay, a couple things about this.
So he sanded it down, polished it out,
and he can still see some of the scratches.
And usually, you know, what I've seen in the past,
usually what most of the time is,
you did go through the steps,
but you sanded it with 2,000,
but you might not have sanded it really good enough
with the 3,000 to get the 2,000 grit scratches out.
So then when you jump to 5,000,
you're removing the 3,000 grit scratches,
but you're still leaving some 2,000 grit.
So my guess is you went, you cut down finer,
that was right.
You know, you want to cut, you know,
go up in grade like that to remove the scratches,
to eliminate the coarser grit.
But I think maybe there might be a few
2,000 grit scratches left in there.
So if you've,
want to start over or try, you know,
try you a spot, go back over it with 3,000 real good
to make sure you've got all the 2,000 grit,
and then the five and then the seven.
I really don't think it's the sandpaper.
I mean, Meguiar's is,
I think you mentioned it was Meguiar's sandpaper.
I mean, they're made by 3M.
3M owns Meguiar's, and I think it's about the same.
Well, you said you use Meguiar compound and polish.
I'm not real sure what the
the sandpaper used was.
There are some sandpaper out there
that is not real uniform,
but, you know, I really think 7,000 grit
ought to get rid of all that, so try that.
But the last part of that,
"If I flow coat the hood,
will it fill scratches?"
And what they're talking about is you mask it off,
get it prepped and ready to paint again,
and you're just gonna clear coat over that.
I might would just go over with 2,000 again,
'cause that is, it's gonna cover 2,000 fine.
I might would go over it with 2,000
to make sure it does have enough adhesion.
7,000 is getting a little fine.
And I'd go, after I went over it with 2,000 grit,
then you can mask it off.
And what a flow coat is,
it's another couple of coats of clear,
but what you're gonna do is you're gonna over reduce it
just to make it flow.
And that would cover the 2,000 grit scratches fine.
So that is an option too, but before you do that,
try re-sanding with 3,000 and 5,000,
and then the 7,000 to see if that will,
will get rid of the scratches for you.
'Cause I have a feeling that
some of those 2,000 grit scratches are still showing,
and you didn't quite get rid of those.
Well, I hope that helped answer some of your questions.
If you have any questions,
leave them down in the comment section.
I'm sure you know that I've been starting
a new collision repair program here in the Denver area.
So my time has been limited,
and I haven't been making videos
as much as I usually do.
And in time, hopefully I will be here on YouTube
answering your questions more on a normal basis.
So anyway, thanks for watching, take care.
And we'll see you
in the next video.