hi i'm paul brodie shop here mitch behind the camera we got some stuff to do today what's new
i got some aramaki parts that are nickel plated and anodized this is the clutch hub
that got made in a previous episode and this has been hard anodized so i know the friction plate
has to rub against this surface here so we'll see how that hard anodizing works this is just regular
anodizing this is pewter this is black obviously got the oil lines done there's the washer and the
circuit for the rear hub this is the tack mount here oil lines these banjo bolts and so they've
been drilled for safety wire because all oil lines on a race bike have to be safety wired
and i have a little jig that makes that that's the oil filler cap and it needs to be safety wired as
well so we're good there one of the viewers wanted to see an aerial shot of the air mackie tools the
special tools so mitch is going to show you that there's a few tools there and then we're going
to talk about valve keepers these are the little pieces that go in between the valve and the valve
cap can you see these two little pieces this is a a seven millimeter can you see there's
uh it's not a groove it goes into a groove so i'm not quite sure what you'd call that
but it has to fit really well so you can see this one see that fits well that's a that's a good fit
now on this valve here this is out of the engine which i built in 2001 i can't remember
if i bought a set of keepers or someone gave me a set or i made a set of keepers 2001.
can't remember so i've been looking for keepers and apparently i don't know what to order
so i started making phone calls i went online and i i looked up up machine shops in langley
and i found a few so i started phoning and the third one i found was nt machine and i told
them that i'm looking for valve keepers and they said well well come on down we've got some valve
keepers so i went down there a few days later and this is what they had amazing selection i
and i thought that i'd go in there and i'd sit down somewhere and i'd look for valve keepers but
he handed me this thing and he says here you take it away you bring it back he didn't know me
he didn't have my name phone number or anything and i said do you want my name or phone number
or something he says just bring it back so i figured it was i guess eight nine pounds of
valve keepers but it's actually 13 pounds and i have gone through this whole thing i had had help
from a friend mick hot we went through this whole thing looking for keepers so the closest we could
find i'll show you what the closest is there's two different kinds here and each of them doesn't fit
quite so can you see this one can you see how they're way too far in
because the od is too small so those didn't work and then we found these ones
and they're a different shape on the inside so it looks good but can you see how it wiggles
it's not the right taper well something's going on so neither of those work so
what i have to do i realized after looking through 13 pounds of valve keepers is that
i have to make my own so i got some metal here this is 11 44 that you've probably never heard of
i looked it up in my book so what we're looking at here is the is the carbon content so this has a
fairly high carbon content and we're also looking at the tensile strength 125 000 and machinability
is at 82 now it's not a scale of 0 to 100 because i've seen one that was 195 but this means
that it's fairly easy easy to machine so that's what we're using so i've got a little sketch here
that i'm going to make you to show because i have to think about how how am i going to make
a valve keeper because it's got a bore that fits around the valve and then it's also got
a section that comes in in for the groove so what i've got right here is
an outline of this piece here so i'm going to show you what i'm going to do
i'm going to drill a hole first so the hole is going to go
like that
so the the hole size is that size so that's going to be the smallest part of the keeper
now i have to open up so i'm going to use a drill and we're going to open up to six millimeters
like that and i didn't have a reamer so i had to buy a reamer this is a six millimeter reamer and
i remember it doesn't seem like that long ago i'd pay like 16 18 for a reamer small one like this 31
everything is more money it seems okay so now i now what i want to do is i know the
width of the groove and i can measure up from here so what i have to do is to face off the end
to the same width of the groove from there to there so i'm facing off the end now
this is my plan and having having done that
now i need to put a radius on there use my red pen now so this is going to be a radius like that
and how i'm going to do that it's going to be spinning in the lathe and i got a
scraper i sharpened it up a bit and so as the lathe is turning i can make a radius there
and i can also go inside and also work on that radius as well then the next thing to do is to
make a taper i think it's a a seven degree taper but i'm not sure we'll check that as well
so now i got i got a taper that's looking like a keeper after that i take it out of the lathe
hold it in the bench vise and i hack saw down hacksaw down to here and then i can cut it off
and then i see how it fits and if it doesn't fit very well then i have to make another one so this
is the plan today and then if we have time i think we will we're going to work on aramaki
flywheels there's a couple things we have to do so first of all i'm going to hacksaw this off face it
and we're going to work on the keepers i just need one pair that's all
i'll drill from the other end as well because sometimes a drill
wanders so this will be a good thing to start from both ends i think
okay that's the first hole drill that's the same size as the groove in the valve
so now we have to drill and green to six millimeters
there's a radius there that should fit inside the valve but it's hard to know if that's right so
anyway we're going to proceed and we'll we'll see what happens so next i have to measure the
angle of the valve cap okay so the valve cap is held lightly
so here's my little indicator and it's in intense of a thou so we can make it pretty accurate so
from my thumb to my thumb that's one thou so each of those is a tenth of a thou each of those lines
okay so something like that in england my father used to be an aircraft inspector
ejection seats and this is one of the tools he had for looking around the corners to make sure
that everything was good so this is was made in either late 50s or early 60s in england
so there we go you can can you see what i'm seeing
there okay we're at zero
so over that space of route out two thousand that's pretty close is that close enough
this is a tap
there we go we're on zero
there we go we're out we're outside there so we're at one thou now you want closer than that mitch
there we go hitting my leg of the hammer that's what it comes down to doesn't it hitting my lathe
that's good it's a couple tenths max so we're good okay we have to figure out how long the
keep is going to be and we also need the width of a hacksaw blade so we're at 392 so if we go out to
if you make the cut at 450 something like that 445. so that's how far down we go
wow
okay let's go to the the bench vise and i'll see how good i am with a little hacksaw
wow a lot of work for a little piece
i wanted to use this axle blade because it's narrow
it gets easier to go down because it gets a little thinner and thinner
and we bottomed out got some 180 paper here
whatever
so there we have carl oh you can see the uh
hmm okay well let's see how they fit i'll go grab the valve
see if it fits and see if it hangs up like that one that's a good fit
okay so it's not falling out and can you see how it's raised up a little bit above this surface
here well this one's the same it's raised up just a little bit above the surface so
i don't think that's going to come i think that should work
so well a lot of work for a set of keepers
here's the aramaki aramaki flywheel that we took out of these cases that was you know a
couple episodes ago or more and one of the viewers says yeah you have to look inside the sludge trap
i know about that so this has been a race bike it's not a street bike and i changed the oil after
every race so let's take out that plug it doesn't take that long and let's see how much sludge is
actually inside because he had a concern that there's a bunch of dirt in there let's find out
oh oh it went through anyway okay whatever
not a very long plug i'm using some grease because then what the grease does is hold the chips and it
stops the chips from going down the hole so we don't have to put a whole lot of threads in but
we are going to put a few threads in here so that the slide hammer can do its job so i got
my long tap handle here so i don't interfere and it doesn't have to be super straight
5 16 national fine that's what the slide hammer is
so let's find out what's inside here
whether we got lots of dirt or just a little bit
there we go okay see it coming out
there we go can you see inside there's no there's no dirt at all there's no there's no
sludge i'll get a i'm gonna get another paper towel i'm gonna wipe the inside
so after a season of racing that's how much dirt was in there almost almost nothing so i guess it
pays to change the oil doesn't it yes we're going to use this we can use the size of that
and and we'll make up another insert and we'll press it in there and that job is taken care of
this is called press lube and it just helps helps to stop seizing
yeah that went in quite nicely
so it's all all clean we don't have to worry we can sleep at night now we know that the sludge
trap is not full of junk we hope you've enjoyed hanging out in the shop here with myself and mitch
we worked on valve keepers a sludge trap maintenance and i enjoyed myself
so if you like what you're seeing please give us a thumbs up subscribe mitch and i like coffees as
you know if you buy us a few coffees helps to fuel the channel thanks see you next week take care