In this video what I want to show you is the Installation of the Deep joists to?
the floor for the second storey of this house I'm
going to show you two different methods or two different materials that you can use
and how you go about blocking them so they, don't want to fall either
so the first material is your standard natural for some timber and of course
you're going to purchase
the lengths that are required and make sure that they are deep enough to span the distance that you require
and the
biggest problem with natural timber is that it tends to twist and bow so what we have to do is we have to stop it
and the way, we do that Is that the Code in Australia says that every
1.8, or 1800 Millimetres
what you have to do Is put a row of blocking
or strutting in to stop it from bowing so what I've got here Is what We call Solid Blocking
so that's just blocks of a similar material to the actual joist a little bit narrower in between
the other option is to use what, we call Herringbone strutting so 30 x 38 Or 50 x 50 Timber
Just
nailed Into the angle
both the blocks and the Herringbone Strutting are usually a little bit less a little bit narrower than the actual
Joists just so we don't get any chance of them sticking up and disturbing the floor and
especially With the solid blocks
leaving them a little bit short just allows for some airflow to move around the joists so
that's our natural timber blocked and
Herringbone strutting every 1.8m to stop it from twisting and bowing
the other option we can Use and the most popular option nowadays is
LVL and I-Beams
in this case we have a fairly long span through here so
I've Installed a steel beam that
transfers all the way through to the floor both sides and
throw in our I beams and our LVL's
The LVL's are the more structural members they're there to carry the weight and because we've got an opening here for a stairwell
I've done LVL on both sides to pick up the extra weight that this saddle trimmer would
replace because it's carrying the load of those two joists there
the rest of the floors are I-beams or I-joists or whatever the particular manufacturer wants to call them
very lightweight and a lot longer span you can actually buy
them in pretty much any means that you want so there's no need to join them over a wall
They still only have a certain span but you can just put continuous links all the way through, no need to join them
In this case we've had to join them on the steel beam so what we do
again to manufacturer's Instructions you can cut
into the top and bottom flange of the beam I think, off the top of my head it's about 12mm maximum so you
need to fit it around the beam as tightly as you can
and then of course we need to block these to stop them from falling over but, we only have to block the ends so
we just use the same material, just the offcuts, so they just get cut between and the gap here allows for the airflow
and the other end the other option is to use what they call a Rim board which is just basically a piece of 20mm Ply
which has been cut, to the same height as joist and it gets nailed onto the end
and that stops the joist from falling, over
we also need to make sure that we block them at the steel to stop these
sliding along the steel
that locks all the joists in
the big advantage of the ideas that don't need to be blocked in the middle
only thing you have to do in the centre of the spans
is just tack them in place with a bit of a batten
while you're laying the floor and then as you lay the floor that can come out and
that will hold the joist straight while you laying the floor
Other thing you need to do before you finish your floor is you, need to make sure
that you've got trimmers above all your
Internal Walls that are running in the same direction as the wall so the line of trimmers through there
That'll pick up this ceiling later on
So there you go there's our Deep Joists installed Into this job using either a natural timber or a
man-made timber product to create our floor for our second story