Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today we're working with our 2011 Polaris Sportsman 850.
Listen, we did a compression test on this one about a week or so ago and I noticed the
readings were off.
And the reason being: they should have been around 100 psi on each cylinder and well,
it was in the front but the rear one only had about 80.
So I'm amazed that this thing is running.
So, here's what we're going to do.
I'm betting it's probably going to be the piston and rings.
That's my hunch on this one.
But to do that, we have to pull the engine all the way out of the machine, get it over
on the teardown bench and get it taken apart.
So, it starts off by just removing the plastics, draining the oil, radiator fluid, several
other connections as far as the prop shaft that goes to your transmission, front differential,
things like that.
It's going to be fairly complicated.
So, let's go ahead and start pulling some plastics and we'll get into it.
Alright guys, let's go over some of the tools you're going to need to get this procedure
done.
There are no specialty tools, so everything you're going to need you could go pick up
at your local Sears or Lowes.
I just wanted to give you an overview.
You're going to need a decent hammer, a couple of prybars, a full set of Allens-- this particular
set goes from a 2 up to a 10mm.
If you don't already have a set of Torx, you're going to get these at least from a T-10 up
to about a T-40.
Next, you're going to need a couple of different punch tools, 3/8th extensions.
Also, it makes life a lot easier if one of your extensions actually has what they call
a swivel on the end of it like this one does.
Alright, as far as the sockets, at least need to get a run from about 8mm up to about 15mm.
And some of the work gets really tight so I prefer to use a quarter-inch drive in that
case with a 8mm and at least a 10mm socket.
Beyond that, just need a decent 3/8 inch ratchet, as far as your box end wrenches just need
a 10 and a 13mm.
Your pliers just nothing special.
Right here I've got what they call a hooknose pair of needlenose pliers.
This particular tool right here is a plier specifically for moving those plastic rivets.
So you may want to invest in one of these and make your life a lot simpler.
A set of needlenose vice grip pliers, a couple of different pick tools, and then a couple
of regular old flatblades-- a long one and a short one.
Other than that, you want to pick up a service manual for one of these machines.
Alright guys we've got most of the plastics off that are going to be necessary.
Nest I want to go ahead and drain the oil out of it.
We're basically going to do a top-end rebuild, I want to start off with fresh oil.
So just a 6mm Allen, about dead center of the machine, and when you drain it out make
sure you already have the dipstick at least loosened.
That will allow it to drain easier.
Plus, when you drop this drain plug out, make sure you don't lose the crush washer on it--
and that one stayed on there.
Alright guys, we've got the oil out of the machine and now it's going to be very important
that we go ahead and disconnect the battery.
What I'm going to do is just go ahead and pull these upper covers: the storage container
and that cover right there to get to the negative side of the battery and get it pulled.
And then we'll continue on.
Once you release those two anchors it will just pull up, and then pivot on that hinge.
No need to pull that other cover, the negative is right here.
We're just going to get it disconnected for a couple of reasons: one, we're going to be
disconnecting the starter and we don't want it grounding out anywhere.
Plus, if you were to walk away right now with it still connected and somebody decided to
start it with no oil in it?
That wouldn't work out very well either.
So let's go ahead and get that negative disconnected.
Alright, now with the battery disconnected, we want to go ahead and remove the linkage.
Basically, that arm is just pressed into this plastic pivot.
Next we want to go ahead and remove the shielding for the exhaust and then the rear springs
at the muffler.
They can be a little tricky to get off.
Next, we want to remove the four exhaust manifold bolts.
Once you get those removed, then the exhaust just lifts out.
Now we're going to be removing this frame strut as well as the intake, airbox, intake
plenum.
It starts by just removing these four bolts for the frame strut: two in the front, two
in the back.
We want to go ahead and remove the ECM plug.
It's important that you want to shift the collar forward as you're pulling it down to
get it to release.
Next you're just going to have a couple of bolts that are holding in the airbox itself.
With that one screw from the airbox removed you can remove the strut.
Next you want to remove the trigger for the coil pack.
Now you can remove that other bolt for the intake.
Now a couple of more bolts on the airbox.
Go down below and loosen up the clamp for the intake plenum.
Now at this point you really need to go ahead and get the rest of the plastics off of the
machine so we've got full access.
Now I'm just putting in a rag to keep any debris from going in the intake over there.
Now we can lift off the airbox, and pull out the connections that are going down to the
intake plenum.
Go ahead and get the rear intake for the transmission out of the way.
Next we want to go ahead and make sure there's no pressure in the fuel system.
There's just a Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
You just want to go ahead and push it in to make sure that no fuel pressure is present.
Next, you want to remove the fuel line going to the fuel rail.
It's a little tricky.
The little plastic collar there you have to pry it up by pushing on the edges of it on
the bottom and then it will release.
Next you're going to want to remove the two upper bolts that hold the fuel tank in place.
We're going to go ahead and remove the fuel line so it doesn't get caught on anything.
Then the fuel tank breather line, and after that it's just a matter of wiggling the gas
tank out.
Next we want to go ahead and remove all the lines going to the radiator.
Go ahead and drain all the fluid out of it.
Remove the upper and lower hoses.
Next we need to actually lift the machine all the way up so we can rotate the tires
to get the prop shaft at the appropriate angle going to the front differential because there's
a pin that I have to knock through to get it removed.
Alright, with it rotated the right direction, there's a little pin right there.
I'm just going to use a flat punch to knock it all the way through but not all the way
out.
We just want it to clear the spline to input shaft.
Alright, with the pin pushed far enough to clear the input shaft on the front differential,
you can knock the entire shaft backwards towards the back of the machine.
At this point, once it clears the front differential, you can push it forward again to release it
from the transmission.
Next we want to go ahead and remove all of the bolts that are actually connecting the
engine to the transmission.
I believe there's nine of them, so make sure you get them all.
Next we want to go ahead and address the fuel system.
It starts off by just removing the intake plenum which in turn is also going to release
the throttle bodies.
I'm going to leave the throttle cable connected to them.
What we're going to do is just zip-tie it up and out of the way.
Nest we can address the fuel rail.
Get all the connections off of it and the fuel injectors themselves.
A couple more bolts and she swings out as one assembly.
I'm going to put a couple of rags in the intake so we don't get any debris inside.
One of the last things we need to do is go ahead and remove the motor mounts.
Don't just remove the bolts that go through the frame.
We want to remove the entire mount with the brackets that go to the case of the engine.
With all of the bolts removed, use a pry bar, go ahead and lift up on the engine, and the
mount and the brackets will all come out.
Now we can go ahead and gently pry the engine away from the transmission.
Once it gets loosened up, just stand over it, shake it until she separates.
Alright guys, well she is free of the frame.
All we have to do now is I've got to get some help from somebody to lift this thing up and
get it on the teardown bench.
This completes step one, which is basically just the removal of the engine.
What we're going to do next in the next video is go ahead and pull this thing down and find
out what's going on inside.
Why is it burning oil?
Why is the compression off?
So if you want to find out what happens next, come see us in the next video and until then,
just want to say thanks for watching.