Common rail injection installation is something that I wanted to revisit today. We have a
lot of problems arise with people not installing injectors correctly and that have problems
with the feed tube alignment to the injector and torque values and whatnot, so we're going
to go back through that. We've already done an installation of a complete install of a
common rail injectors on your 5.9, but what we wanted to do is we wanted to focus on installing
the injectors themselves individually, so I'm not going to hit on the rest of the install.
I want to go through this and show you the correct way to align the feed tubes and the
correct torquing procedures for installation.
So if you purchase new injectors from us, they'll come with a cap on either end of the
injector for the nozzle and both covering the solenoid. Now this plastic cap that actually
covers the solenoid, not only does it protect it in shipping, but it's also to help you
with installation. So we're going to install the injector right now.
First off, you want to install your injector first and you're going to want to lubricate
your O-ring on the injector. We just use petroleum jelly. Okay, and then you'll want to remove
the cap off of the nozzle and give just a little bit of grease on it as well, and that's
to hold the copper compression washer on the injector. Now you notice we're going to leave
this plastic cap on the end of the injector. This is actually to help you to install so
you don't hurt the solenoid when you're installing the injector.
So again, like we covered in our first video, you want the feed hole for the injector, you
want this towards the driver's side of the truck where the nozzle will be able to engage
it. So we're going to put the injector in now with the alignment hole towards the driver's
side of the truck. Okay, now here's where your cap comes into play. When you leave this
cap on the injector, when you go to push it into the bore, once you get it started just
take the palm of your hand and push the injector straight down and it should click. That's
what the cap is actually for, and to protect the silenoid. So we're going to leave the
cap on there while we're putting our feed tube in.
Now our feed tube, normally when we do an installation here at the shop, we usually
go back with all new feed tubes. Okay? If there's any question of the condition of the
feed tube, be it in the O-ring or the end of the feed tube where it engages the injector,
always replace the feed tube. More problems in feed tubes and feed tube alignment to the
injector than there is anything else in this whole job.
So we're going to give the O-ring a light coat of grease. Now we're going to install
it in the injector. Now you have these balls on the feed tube, and these are meant to go
up. There's a channel cut for those in the head. Okay, now when installing these, we
actually use a tool that goes over the thread of the feed tube, and that's to keep you from
damaging the thread of the feed tube. We're just going to screw that on a few turns, pop
our feed tube in and you can hear it pop.
Okay, now what we're going to do to make sure that we are properly engaged into the injector
is we're just going to work the injector back and forth here and make sure that we see the
feed tube moving. That means that we are engaged in the injector correctly.
Once we've installed our injector, what we're going to do is we're going to put our injector
hold down bolts in, and we're not tightening these, we're just going to put them in hand
tight. Okay, these are metric 10 bolts, and again we're not snugging these down, we're
just putting them in here a couple of turns.
All right, we've got our injector in and our feed tube aligned here. Okay, what we're going
to do now is we're going to put all of our retainers on here. Okay, we're going to start
with our two inject hold down bolts. These are both metric eight bolts, and we're not
tightening these at all, we're just putting them in a couple of turns here just to hold
the injector in line, and also so we don't lose the bolts. And now our feed tube hold
down nut, which is a metric 24, we start this. Okay, and now we're ready for our torque sequence.
Okay, so again, what is so critically important here is we know for 100% positive that we
have the feed tube in line with the injector feed hole. Okay, so we're going to do our
first torque value here and it's going to be on our feed tube. Okay, our feed tube,
our initial torque is going to be about 12 foot pounds, and what this is going to do
is this is going to set our feed tube into our injector bore. Now again, we don't have
our injector tight, only hand tight, and we're going to start our feed tube first. This is
going to be our first tightening sequence. So 24 metric for the feed tube retaining nut.
This is going to be our first torque, 12 foot pounds. Okay, there's that.
Now we're going to go to our hold downs. Now our hold downs, we're going to torque these.
We're going to alternate between the two. We're going to go 90 degrees at a time with
each one and we're going to take the injector hold down to 89 inch pounds. Now working around
the injector, you want to be very conscious around your solenoid studs. You want to make
sure ... I leave the cap on them just to protect the solenoid. That's a very good practice.
I try to work in about 90 degree turns on this and I alternate between the two. And
again, we're taking this to 89 inch pounds.
This is an important torque, so if you never had your torque ratchet checked or verified
before you do this job, always make sure that you do that. Okay, that's our injector hold
downs. Again, that torque value, that's a onetime torque at 89 inch pounds.
Now we're coming back out to the feed tubes. This is our final torque on our feed tubes
and for the 5.9 common rail your final torque value is 34 foot pounds. Okay, 24 metric here
on the feed tubes and we simply take that to 34 foot pounds, and that is the correct
way to torque down the common rail injector on the 5.9 Cummins and remove my cap. That
has your feed tube set, your injectors torqued down, and everything's perfect. Okay?
Now we're going to go back with our rocker arm. Our torque value for our rocker arm for
on the exhaust side is going to be 27 foot pounds. You can do that torque in two steps
if you'd like. If you like to do 12 and then take it to 27, or take a straight to 27, then
we'll run rack on or we'll run top side and check our valve clearances. Again, we covered
that in the other video, and our wiring harness. Now, I want to stress this again. This is
a very, very important torque value. When we go back to put our wiring harness on our
injector, our torque value for this is 13 inch pounds, which is a very, very, very light
torque. Why is that important? A couple reasons. If you over-torque these, what you're going
to do is you're actually going to break the studs off in the solenoid. That is a non-warranty
situation. It will not be covered under warranty by any of our fuel shop distributors that
you'll deal with. Industrial injection DDP, for sure not going to cover a broken stood
under warranty that's been over-torqued.
Now further into that stretching of the studs, in this cylinoid, if you over torque this
if you don't break it and you overstretch it, you're you're going to change the resistance
of the contact inside of the solenoid and the electronic signal is not going to be the
same. So if you overstretch it, if you have a warranty situation with the injector, if
they find these studs to be stretched, that'll be a non-warranty item as well.
So again, our rocker arm's on 27 foot pounds. We'll put a rocker box on and our wiring harness.
Take these solenoid nuts, 13 inch pounds, and we should have a good install here.