- Believe it or not, it is actually winter
here in San Diego, in zone 10B,
and there are a lot of things we need to do in this garden
to prepare for winter.
So in this video,
we've got you covered from zones five to zone 10,
as far as what to do for winter.
Starting off with some tips for zones nine plus,
we're here in 10B, Briana and Chris on the team
are gonna share some zone five and eight tips pretty soon.
But Jacques, we're staring
at what looks like a season's worth of plants.
- Yeah, absolutely, in San Diego, we never get a hard freeze
which means that we could grow seedlings outdoors,
year-round, with no issue.
And we actually have a bunch of brassicas, alliums,
definitely a ton of onions,
and we're gonna be transplanting all throughout winter,
into December, with no issue.
- Yeah, and if you want, you can slow your garden down
in a warmer climate, which we'll talk about right now.
If you don't want to have a full growing season,
like we're doing here in winter,
you can do something that we did right behind me
in this corn patch last year,
which was throw a bunch of cover crop seeds down.
It's a great way to improve the soil, beautify the space,
and attract a ton of beneficials
while not really doing much of anything,
as far as effort goes.
And Jacques, you've got another solution.
- Yeah, if you're in a warmer climate like we are,
you could actually leave your beds un-mulched if you want
because by having compost on top of your beds,
that dark compost will soak up a bunch of extra heat
and help your plants grow a little bit faster.
Just a little extra option.
- Yep, so some warm climate tips.
But now for those of you who are in a real winter,
let's head over to Chris up in Vancouver
with some epic suggestions.
- Hey, it's Chris and up here in Vancouver,
which is normally an 8B hardiness zone,
we get our own flavor of winter.
And although we don't get the really low temperatures,
I would say we don't dip
under 10 Fahrenheit or minus 10 Celsius,
we do face another host of challenges
when it comes to gardening in the winter
because it's usually quite mucky here.
So the combination of wet and cold
is a really bad thing to put your plants through.
So we're gonna walk through some of the things that I do
in my garden to protect the plants.
Before we talk about plants,
a bit of general gardening housekeeping
towards the end of the year.
So I try to prioritize taking down
my main season growing structures,
and tucking them into a sheltered spot
because they are honestly serving no purpose,
other than providing a perch for the little birds
that like to visit the garden to feed off the seedheads.
So what I'm gonna do right now is just remove this
and tuck it into a spot that's not going to be exposed
to a lot of cold and wet,
because with these wooden posts, if I can prolong their life
and reduce the need for me to go out and buy more
and more materials year after year, all the better.
For any beds that I plan on growing winter food in,
like in this big bed behind me, I usually set up
a very simple low hoop tunnel using half-inch PVC,
rebar to keep everything in place at the base,
and also for the cover I use a greenhouse polyethylene,
usually a six mil thickness.
And also the greenhouse poly allows
for plenty of light transmission to reach the plants.
Now the simple structure, although it's very simple,
they are quite effective with keeping the plants cozy,
and also keeping heavy snow from squishing the plants.
So what you see right here is me kind of not being proactive
and fast enough to cover the plants before the snow came.
A quick note on cover options.
If you don't have access to greenhouse polyethylene,
you can easily grab some vapor barrier
from the hardware store.
But depending on the manufacturer,
there will be variations in how opaque it is,
so that affects the light transmission
and also the quality as well.
And another option, if you live in an area
that doesn't get mucky snow or heavy rains,
and you're mostly just trying to protect your plants
from light frost, then fabrics are a great option.
There are different weights, so you can choose a product
that works with the temperatures
that you need to buffer your plants from.
One of the best things that you can do in the fall
to prepare the garden for the winter
is to collect fallen leaves to use as free mulch.
So I've got my wonderful red maple here,
and also a lovely hazelnut shrub.
And both of these drop these really lovely sized, I'd say,
like medium-sized leaves to use as mulch in the beds.
So I try to avoid overly large leaves
because they tend to squish together
and smush down any plants
that are trying to peek their way out of the soil.
A simple rake is my tool of choice
when it comes to collecting leaves
because it's nice and quiet and also very gentle.
In case there are some overwintering insects
already nestled in these leaf piles,
what we really don't wanna do is take a noisy leaf blower
and just blast up all of these leaves,
disturbing these overwintering habitats.
And if you don't have access to leaves,
straw is a great option for many gardens.
So in my veggie beds, I have about three to four inches deep
of this straw, and it helps keep the soil nice and cozy.
If you're like me and you like to experiment
by growing neat plants
that are just outside of your growing zone,
meaning that they will likely not survive
or do well in your area's coldest temperatures,
then you need to think
about what you're gonna do with these plants.
Because, what I mentioned before,
with that cold and wet combination,
it could be really disastrous
for plants that are left out in the open
in conditions that they're not really meant to withstand.
So with these plants, whether it's the upper part
or the bottom part, you need to protect them.
Otherwise the plant tissue gets destroyed,
and come spring when everything thaws,
you're just gonna see a big pile of plant mush.
Here I've got this really fun fruiting subtropical perennial
that didn't fruit this year,
but fingers crossed that I can get some fruit next year.
So what I'm doing here is just cutting back the leaves,
most of the stem, and then digging out the root,
and then I'm gonna pot it up, give it a drink of water,
and tuck it into a frost-free spot, likely the greenhouse.
Now, not all of my plants need that level of protection.
Many of the more established shrubs and trees
will do just fine with a bed of mulch
towards the base to protect the roots.
But if you're in a colder climate,
you do have to take extra precautions
to make sure that your plants live
through some pretty harsh cold conditions.
So to learn more about what that looks like,
let's head on over to Colorado
to see what Briana's doing
to prepare her garden for the winter.
- Hey guys, as you can see,
we've had our first killing frost.
So here at the farm, we are actually zone 5/6,
that means we get winter snow, we get frozen soil.
And there are lots of things that we do in the fall to help
so that our garden is ready to go in the spring.
So as our temperatures are getting colder,
Chris is bringing some things into her greenhouse,
but I just don't have a very big greenhouse.
It's six by 10, and I need the whole thing
to start my 14,000 seedlings for the farm every year.
So I don't really grow a lot of stuff
that I have to bring in to winterize,
but I do winterize some things in place.
And one of those things are actually newly-planted trees.
So trees that are older don't need this,
but newly-planted trees,
so for the first five years, they really benefit
from having their trunks wrapped for the winter.
That's because the fluctuation in temperatures
and the sun exposure can be hard on tree trunks,
and we don't want them to split over the wintertime.
So we're gonna wrap these up,
and then we'll remove it in the spring.
Now, whenever we aren't able to get a cover crop in,
if it gets too late in the season,
or if we have a crop that's just growing too late
to be able to cover crop,
we also use leaves just like how Chris does.
We don't mulch the leaves.
We actually leave the leaves whole
because there can be nesting pollinators
and things in here that we don't wanna chop up.
So we leave them whole,
we layer them thickly on top of the bed.
I like to do it before we're going to get a snow
because that helps weigh it down.
If you're not going to get a snow anytime in the forecast,
you can also use a hardware mesh to weigh it down,
or just some insect netting
to help keep these from blowing away.
But we like to do cover crops if we can get them in,
and I'm gonna tell you why.
Here at the farm, we focus on regenerative practices,
and that means that we're trying to build our soil
and our soil fertility
through natural processes as much as possible.
So we don't use fertilizers, we don't use pesticides.
We rely on diversity, and we also rely on cover crops.
So cover crops are a great way
to bring biodiversity into your garden
and to create a blanket for the soil over winter.
So you can see that even though we've had a frost
and a lot of our plants are dead,
the cover crop is still growing
because they're a little bit more cold tolerant.
Now this is a 16-species cover crop that we've used here,
and our sheep actually love to forage this down.
But your cover crop is very flexible.
So it kind of depends on what your goals are
for your cover crop, in terms of what you use.
Each cover crop has a different purpose.
So you wanna think about your goals for your garden.
If you plan to cover crop,
think about what you're trying to accomplish.
If you're trying to accomplish
skipping the fertilizers next year,
then you'll wanna use a nitrogen fixer, like a legume.
If you're wanting to keep nutrients in your soil,
you'll want to use something like oats
that's a nitrogen catch.
And if you're trying to prevent erosion,
there's lots of great cover crops for that.
So thinking about those things is really key
if you want to incorporate a cover crop into your garden.
So for us here, we actually focus on planting something
that's going to winter kill,
that way we're planting this in fall,
we're letting it grow for a little bit,
and then once our temperatures dip down into the upper 20s,
these cover crops are gonna die back on their own,
and it'll be ready to plant into in the spring.
Here in my zone, fall means one thing,
and that's a lot of leaves.
Now we are seeing a movement
where people are no longer raking
and bagging their leaves as much, which is great
because it's better just to leave them in place
for the nesting pollinators.
However, we do like to give people who are still raking
and bagging a place to bring them,
so we do a donation drop here at the farm,
and we use all of these leaves.
We get over 500 bags a year.
We apply them to our raised beds,
we put them on top of the soil, we mulch around our plants,
and then we also store some over the winter
to make leaf mold in the spring.
Now, storing them can be a little bit tricky.
Because of the wind, they tend to blow away.
So what we do is we make leaf towers
to help hold some of these in place
so that we can have them in the spring
once it's time to use them.
Let me show you how.
We are back here in the compost bin area of the farm,
and this is where we store our leaf towers.
These leaf towers are a great way
to store our leaves in place until the spring,
just to keep them from blowing away,
because it is great to have them in the garden as mulch
or to make leaf mold,
and we also use them a lot in our compost bins.
So leaves are our primary brown ingredient
because we have so many of them here.
So as you can see, these leaf towers are just made out
of bunny fencing, which is a wire fencing
that is smaller down at the bottom, and it's bigger up top.
So being smaller at the bottom helps
to hold all that organic matter in as it breaks down.
And it's nice because
there's also air circulation happening in here.
Now in our zone, it's pretty dry, so we really
don't get any composting of this when it's just brown.
They just kind of sit here.
But as we add them to our compost pile,
they break down and they become wonderful compost.
Or you can just use the leaves and make them into leaf mold.
All we do to make these is we take our bunny fencing,
we shape it into a circle,
and we tie the ends together just by folding the wire over.
It really couldn't be easier.
We put some compostable leaf bags in the bottom of these,
just to help keep weed growth down.
And then we fill 'em up with leaves.
We leave them until the spring
or we throw them into the compost pile.
And the final thing that I like to do in the fall
is to prep all of my garden beds for the spring.
So when we're starting new planting areas, especially,
I like to let those new planting areas
kind of age over the winter.
And so we're actually doing a trial this year.
We're doing three different methods.
We're doing a lasagna bed, a no-dig bed,
and my own method, which I call the native soil method.
And we're gonna do a comparison
of how they all do in the spring.
Prepping them in the fall just gives you a little bit
of a leg up in the spring season because you're not having
to try to rush to get your garden beds prepped
before you can get them planted.
Especially for us, we tend to have kind of wet
and soggy springs, and that can be a really bad time
to be out and working your soil.
So I really prefer, if at all possible,
to prep new planting areas in the fall
so that you're ready to go come spring
- Jacques and I have a ton of winter planting to do.
But if you do wanna see a full guide on cover cropping,
especially in raised beds, check our guide out.
Good luck in the garden and keep on growing.
(upbeat music)