Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, we'll
be looking at nine shoe trends and why we hope they'll be kicked to the curb.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
As devotees of classic style, we prefer our shoes to be like most of the other items in our wardrobe -
effortlessly versatile, timelessly-styled, and quality investments. And, while styles that are
currently on trend might not be the sort of thing that we look to have in our wardrobes
- do any of us look like hypebeasts? - we are still aware of trends as they develop. But, please note:
we dislike these styles because they don't fit within the realms of classic style, which is what
this channel is all about. Now, this doesn't mean that these shoes are intrinsically bad
or that people who wear them are poorly dressed. It only means that they aren't indicative of
the classic style. As always, wear what you want. But, if what you want is classic style,
then we think our opinions will be helpful to you. So, then, let's check out our individual examples.
Squishy-soled shoes. We like the term "squishy" when referring to trendy shoes
with chunky bulbous soles because it captures how gooey, squashy, and slightly damp these shoes look
to us, especially this example from Yeezy. Excuse me, I think you stepped in some gum.
Oh.
This trend started in the early 2010s when athletic shoe brands like Adidas revived style
designs from the 80s and 90s. Originally, these squishy shoes were supposed to improve performance
and cushion the feet, while their distinctive appearance and retro feel made them a fashion
piece. And as often happens with fashion, someone decided that bigger was better. Through the years,
these shoes have grown successfully larger and more squidgy - culminating with the Balenciaga
Triple S line, named for its complex, three-layer outsole. I guess if one sole is good, three have
to be better, right? These shoes aren't fit for lovers of classic style because they intentionally
spoil the silhouette of the foot to garner attention. The sole is lifted, the heel extended, and
the arch padded in an unnatural way. And this will compile a second glance in the unusual profile.
And we're pretty sure this is primarily intended to emphasize the branding. Logos are mentioned no
less than three times in the product details of the shoe. Classic style relies on subtly enhancing
the natural profile of the foot, and it's clear that's not the goal of these squishy-soled shoes.
Next, sock-sneakers. We are tempted to say that we're opposed to this trend because of its portmanteau,
"snockers." These shoes can trace their origins back to the late-90s and early-2000s when athletic
shoe manufacturers used mesh slip-ons to eliminate the need for laces or tongues.
Many brands continued to trumpet the modern knit snockers as "performance-enhancing" and "intended for
athletic endeavors." We're not able to comment on that. Instead, we'll note how, stylistically,
these shoes occupy the spectrum opposite that of the squidgy shoe as they are thin, low-profile,
and sleek. But, being the opposite of a squidgy shoe doesn't make it a classic shoe. Snockers are still
disruptive and distracting. Immediately drawing the eye with their unexpected texture and lines,
which seem to elongate the foot. The result is a shoe that demands attention and, with its unusual
design, it's simply too futuristic for a classic look. Frankly, to us, snockers look just a little
bit too much like a pair of gym socks glued to a rubber sole, and that's a hard look for anyone
to pull off. Next, frankenshoes. Like the squishy shoes, we've lamented these dress shoe-sneaker
hybrids before as one of 15 general style trends we'd hope would die forever. But, Dr. Frankenshoe's
Monster is still stumbling through the village. Frankenshoes are an effort to let consumers
have their cake and eat it, too. He promised the elegance and refinement of a dress shoe with
the comfort of a sneaker. But, all they managed to do is ruin both. The clean, minimalist design
of a classically-styled sneaker are cluttered with the designs of a dress shoe - details like broguing
and medallions. While dress shoe uppers are drastically dressed down with casual laces
and chunky soles. The result is a shoe that's too casual to be worn as a dress shoe and too formal
to be worn as a sneaker. I guess the only place to wear them is on an ice raft drifting out to sea.
It's a reference to the end of the Frankenstein novel. Oh, darn, sorry. Spoiler alert. Frankenshoes
often prey upon the assumption held by many men that all dress shoes are uncomfortable. But, in
fact, a properly-fitted dress shoe can be just as comfortable as any Frankenshoe and is actually
far more versatile than you might think. Here's Raphael to explain the basics of how a men's
dress shoe should fit. Next, Crocs. Few shoe trends are as polarizing as Crocs. The foam clogs everyone
either loves or loves to loathe. Originally designed as boat shoes, Crocs proliferated in beach
and nautical settings in the early-2000s, before exploding in popularity in the mid
and late-2000s. In 2007, 847 million dollars of Crocs were sold, including to then-President George
W. Bush. The company was nearly flattened by the Great Recession, but managed to bounce back, riding
undulating waves of popularity as its unmistakable design has come in and out of public favor. Suffice
it to say, with their bulging soles, plastic texture, clunky strap, and prominent ventilation preparation,
Crocs do not fit into the classic style aesthetic, which is fine. They were designed
as work or leisure shoes for utilitarian or extremely casual circumstances.
But, whenever something becomes famous, it can sometimes go a little bit too far afield from
its original purpose - like when Succession star wore a pair of crocs to the 2020 Emmys. This weird
mingling of casual and formal styles is just so distracting and jarring. As you might imagine,
Crocs do not appear in our guide to the black tie dress code. We also find it a little ironic
that corporate hype and special collaborations have created Crocs that cost hundreds of dollars;
when the shoes were originally marketed for being so cost effective. We can't explain why this Croc
costs over $300 for resale, but we can explain why real croc and alligator leather
is so expensive. Raphael will give you all the details in this video. Next, slides. A slide is any
backless and open-toed mule flip-flop, and I'm sure just saying the name has many thinking of the
famous Adidas model. Ancient sandals that visually resemble slides have been around for a millennia,
which, I guess, technically makes it a little hard to call them a trend. But, of course, modern slides
made their debut in the second half of the 20th century. And while originally being confined to
beach, pool, or athletic settings, they've recently been setting foot into other areas of menswear.
The evolving role of the slides is similar to that of flip-flops in general, but slides have certainly
come a long way since the shower rooms at college or from the YMCA. With versions offered by brands
like Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent, and Gucci, just as we said for flip-flops, we're happy to acknowledge
that there is a time and a place for slides. But, in our opinion, that place is not at a formal event
like at a wedding or any other circumstances when you're expected to dress up or wear a suit. The
exposed construction and general styling of the shoe is simply far too casual for anything but
very casual occasions. So, here's something that slides (with a suit, at least) is a trend that will
slide on out of here. All-black trainers. We've said it time and time again black is the most overrated
color in menswear and that goes for some shoe styles, too. All-black, leather dress shoes are best
reserved for formal occasions, where their subdued refinement is the perfect accessory to a black
or white tie ensemble or for business settings where black Oxford is king. Suffice it to say,
all-black sneakers do not belong in either of those situations, and their black color detracts from the
casual nature that a stylish pair of sneakers can bring to an outfit. For most men, all-black trainers
will either look distracting because solid black will not go with the rest of your outfit
or uninspiring because your entire ensemble is black - neither of which is indicative of the
classic style. There is a caveat though; younger men primarily in their late teens and early-20s can
pull off an all-black sneaker in very particular circumstances. As we understand, they're dressing
appropriately for their age. Typically speaking, all-black trainers fit the laid-back lifestyle
and more athletic builds of this age group. But, this very youthful casual look only works for
a small group. We've previously discussed how you can integrate sneakers into stylish, casual outfits.
Low-profile, minimalist sneakers and subtle tones that compliment your outfit are a great option.
With this more casual ensemble I have assembled here, you can see how mirroring the brown
and white elements of my shirt and jacket help to break up the black in my sneakers. Next, unnatural
patinas. Now, we don't want you thinking that we're only targeting casual shoes. There are definitely
trends in dress shoes that we can't wait to see fizzle out. Now, one will be controversial, we know:
unnatural patinas. All true colors in menswear have appeared regularly throughout the 20th century. This
effect was usually achieved with two-tone shoes - like spectators or the addition of suede. But, in
the late-1960s and 70s, bright and vibrant patinas came into vogue. And they've come in and out of
fashion since then; believed, primarily, by other gentlemen who like to wear their shoes flashy
and bold. Ideally, we believe that a shoe patina should emphasize and intensify the natural
beauty of a shoe; bringing out the rich, original luster of the leather. And, of course, by definition,
a patina is not exactly the original color of the leather. So, there's always going to be a gray zone
between natural and unnatural patinas. We also acknowledge that unnatural patinas have, in the
past three decades, effectively become commonplace. Dark olive, navy, and gray shoes are regularly seen
on stylish gentlemen even if most animals don't have hides that color. But, we do think there's
a distinction to be made between versatile and nuanced colors that blend into the classic color
palette and loud and exuberant colors. Not only are these patinas clearly unnatural, they likely
won't harmonize well with a classic ensemble and might very well draw the wrong kind of attention
and invite unfair judgment. Next, overly-embellished shoes. Overly-embellished shoes are another example
of shoe trends we can't stand. What do we mean? Shoes that have some kind of superfluous detailing
added to them so they appear cooler, trendier, and edgier. When it comes to versatile and timeless
classic men's shoes, we don't see how a pair of loafers are improved by the addition of Romanesque,
gladiator-style spikes (we are not entertained) or a pair of derbies with a floral cotton jacquard
applied to the uppers. Embellishments like these are intended to create visual interest
and mix up the styling of classic men's shoes. But, in our opinion, these over-the-top additions
actually distract from what makes a classic shoe so great. Superfluous embellishments actually
make a shoe look cluttered, distracting you from the subtle details that are so integral to the
classic style. How are you supposed to appreciate the luscious texture of Italian calfskin
when it is hidden under a craft store's shelf-worth of glittering sequins? Some embellishments can
adversely affect the functionality of the shoes. Now, how can you benefit from the natural give
of leather when the front third of the shoe is wrapped in metal and beads? In addition to being
gaudy and attention-seeking, these embellishments just seem wasteful to us. They don't compliment the
natural beauty of the classic shoe and they often aren't innovative enough to really be avant-garde.
They just occupy a jarring, very cluttered middle ground, where an attempt has been made to gild the
lily (and not very well in our opinion.) And last, square-toed shoes. Both casual and dress shoes
come in square-toed varieties and we suggest you avoid them in whatever form they assume.
Square-toed shoes were popular historically because they allowed for an oversized toe box,
letting the shoe fit a greater number of sizes. Now, this was useful in the early days of modern shoe
production as shoe sizes were not yet standardized, so you see many square-toed shoes in museums
and this is where we wish they would stay. Nowadays, square-toed shoes are usually a hallmark of poorly-made,
mass production shoes; the thought being that they'll be more comfortable and provide extra
space for your toes. But, really, they only look like that because they're much cheaper and easier to
manufacture. Now, if you do have wide feet, it'll be much better served by selecting a wider shoe from
a reputable and high-quality shoe manufacturer. Brands like Ace Marks and Allen Edmonds and many
more carry E-width and larger to help you get the right fit, without having to consign yourself
to shoes that look stubby and squat because of the mishandling of the toe. Occasionally, you'll see
an expensive shoe rendered with a square toe. The intention here is often draw attention to the shoe
because it is so unusual. But, purposefully creating something that looks bad seems to be the opposite
of stylish. So, whether you're seeking comfort or unique toe shape, we suggest looking elsewhere.
One quick note here: square toes are not to be confused with the chisel toes. Sometimes, the
terms are used interchangeably. Chisel toes, while slightly squared, are so elegant and classic. You
can learn more in our guide to shoe toe shapes here. So, when it comes to bad shoe trends, are our
thoughts on the same page as yours or were they way off? Let us know in the comments below and,
if there are any other shoe trends you'd like to see the back of, let us know about those, too. Now, today,
I am wearing a green cable knit sweater, a blue and white dress shirt with navy blue slacks, and brown
dress shoes with Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like these.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪