hi I'm Paul Brodie and this is my shop welcome we have a project today we're gonna make a seat
collar hold the seat post stop just sliding up and down on the seat too so we're gonna
start out using a piece of metal what I did I've had this piece of metal and I cut off
a section and this is the same thickness so first step is to go over to the lathe
and we're gonna use a center drill small drill and then large drill boring Bob is my piece of
metal and it's not very thick so if I put it into the Chuck it could be at a slight angle
so I have a little trick I take a plate and the plate goes against each of the three jaws and I
hold my piece of metal against the plate so so when I tighten the Chuck it was in true
so I need use three different drills here I got a center drill a quarter inch drill
and then I got my my lodge drill and I have to slow the lathe down for the lodge drill
I'm gonna use a small boring bar here
we've got 114,000 take off
you see how there's a step and then the step has to be a certain depth
so if I set up the dial indicator and I move this dial here I can
when that needle comes to zero I know that I got the right death
I'm gonna call that okay it's a little big but if I paint or whoever has the
bike if they put some paint on it that'll be fine I'm gonna take off
the burner now if I put the clamp on top and I outline it then you can see
what has to come off so that you can see that's the basic shape we need to aim for
we have a seat post clamp and and now we need to hold it for in the mill so what I've made up
here is is an arbor and this is is machine to the right size as the ID here inside diameter
see how it fits on quite nicely and then there's a cap just hold held on with a six
millimeter allen screw so now I can I can put that in the mill and it's held really
securely no problem what you're looking at is a rotary table it's a chuck and it's mounted on
on the rotary table here and when I turn this and I can go either way it turns and I've got
on all of my degrees here I got the minutes here so I can be really really accurate I'm
gonna set this to zero now so that's my zero right there it's gonna get mounted like that
I'm gonna use a very small end mill it's a quarter inch end mill it's got a ball nose
and the ball nose is going to be used for the side when we make the little radius in there
I want to show you something first though I was practicing yesterday and I had to
transition because on on this line here I'm moving in the x-axis and then when
I do the radius that's when I used I used the rotary table well I have
to transition from this handle over to this dial and I grabbed the wrong
clockwise I made a mistake see that I heard about a guy that never makes mistakes he didn't do
anything but he never made mistakes if you if you do stuff if you have projects if you make things
you're gonna make mistakes that's how we learn so I made a mistake so I'm gonna start at 170
during the final cut now and notice going the other way now it's called climb milling the finish
so the lost operation is to face off the end so I'll set the rotary table
at zero degrees and then I'll bring the mill around and we'll face it off
zero perfect okay so what I have to do now I have to do some operations
on the side so I need to undo the rotary table and
then flip it up on it and then bolt it back down zero off off coordinates
I should see equal space on all three sides I need to make make room for the head of the
Allen screw so I use a regular drill so I need a good shampoo so that this starts because I
see this it looks like it's flat but it's at an angle of 10 degrees and if I stop the drill
it wants to make the drill Wanda it wants to push the drill this way so I need to start
this drill it's got to go straight and then I take off that drill and you see how I've faced
off this one it's pretty flat so that makes a good flat spot for where the head seats
I got a 5 milligram and that's for the five Allowance groom and then I
got a tap it's actually four point two millimeters so I'm gonna drill this one
all the way through and then this one it's gonna go down halfway that's all
okay that's gonna work looks like about the same height there our
next operation then is to is to put the radius as it goes around around
the seat it makes it a little bit lighter but it's definitely cool
a little group having their I took a logic cut so it's a little bit rough so what I'm
going to do is I'll spin it round again and I'll do the whole thing over again and I'll
only take a five that it's going to make the groove it just a little bit smoother
so if you look closely now you can see how
the groove is nice and smooth that actually it turned out quite nicely
okay so what's next is to make a slot right down the middle this is round from here to
here so if I put this on here I mean that lines up with that mark I know the center
I got a little a little bear right there can you see that see how my
thumbnail hits it so we'll just go over to the drill press I restored
it I bought the drill press in 1983 in 1990 I added the variable speed
so I go a little bit of a hand filing now to do take off the birds so we're going to do
that now we've got a little little bit on the inside so I'll use a scraper go
around the inside there and you can see the little bit of Swart coming
off can you can you see that with that little chip take a little file I'm just
have to make a thread
in the old days I was taught how to tap and you go baby hop a tune and you go back and you do a
bit more and go back that's because you have to break off and off the chips on these new
taps it's a spiral point tap it drives all the chips down I'm going to show you see how
all the chips are being driven right through the bottom so that means that once I start
to tap I don't have to stop I can just keep on going so it speeds up the tapping a lot
good thread so we basically done what I've got to do now is just
to give it a little bit of a Polish that's the final touch
once he close call finished thank you very much for watching our video