so we're going to continue on some wiring diagrams but this time we're using the
two plate method the two plate method is where you take the supply to the switch first and not
to the ceiling rose batten lamp holder etc like we did when we looked at the three plate method
sometimes this is called taking the feed or supply to the switch
but an AM2 and AM2S i've heard students come out and say i was asked to wire the lighting circuit
using the two plate method so we look at the wiring diagram for this i've also done a nice
video on the channel as well where i've cabled this in as a one-way circuit then a two-way and
then the two-way intermediate and we're going to use these drawings this one being the one-way one
to support those videos that are on the channel so as always for our light circuits at college we're
going to be using one millimeter squared pvc pvc twin and cpc cable brown blue and a bare conductor
which will identify the drawing with green and yellow sleeving with a green and yellow pen
so it's going to require us to take the supply in this case from the consumer unit
directly to the switch and then from the switch up to the lighting point itself this is often used in
industry where there's loads of downlights saying a kitchen area etc the electrician will bring the
supply directly to the switch and then from the switch the lighting points itself it cuts down
the number of cables at the lighting point this is a wiring diagram so remember that these are
meant to help you make the connections however within the consumer unit we'll be bringing the
brown conductor into the top of the breaker the blue conductor into the neutral bar and the green
and yellow one identified for our cpc into the earth bar and that's not quite what we've got here
however this is a one-way switch and with our one-way switch we can clearly see
we've got common and L1 exactly the same as what we've got here on our actual drawing itself so
common and L1 for our light switch and the light fitting up here is slightly different
as well i've just left three connecting points and a lamp that's likely to be an LED lamp
and it will be using an industry something like this say a joint that requires the cables to
go into it and then from here to the down light or one that looks like this a little bit bigger
okay again a cable jointing area could be something like this one side here this side
here connecting to the mains cable this side here connecting to the flex to the LED downlight
sometimes themselves LED downlights have the actual connections themselves built into the
actual fitting so our solid cables would be coming in here or it could be that we've got that flex
and the LED light and we're required to use one of the joints that we've looked at or something
similar to it so here is just a jointed area that then goes to the light itself it's likely there'd
be more than one lighting point this is quite difficult to lay out as we actually draw because
of the way i've got my different accessories so i'm going to bring a cable up and then down into
here and a cable from here up into my lighting point itself so as we said twin cpc cable or twin
and earth so that's what we're going to be using so i've got to be careful how i put my conductors
around to stop it looking too crowded in the switch itself so let's start off with bringing in
the cpc so we'll start off with a cpc then we'll do our neutral and then we'll do a line so it's
important that i bring it round so i can show my connections are clearly in here so let's start
off with the cpc so i'm going to bring it up just out of the way and then i'm going to bring it down
and i want to make sure that i don't clash with any of my other conductors so for this one
i'm actually going to bring it into the light and just swing it round into my earth terminal
we'll try and keep it as clear as i possibly can the chances are my students will also strike the
side of this yellow so it looks a little bit more like the cpc sleeve than you expect to see
but it's going to get a little bit crowded in here remember there is another video that supports this
the next one our neutral connection would come out the neutral bar is going to be left in the
switch and we'll make a connection to that so let's bring the neutral around so i'm going to
bring my neutral round and i'm just going to leave it at the moment floating in the actual accessory
or in the back of the box next my line conductor i'm going to bring that out my consumer unit at
the top of the probably 6 amp breaker with rcd protection and then we're going to bring that down
i'm going to kick that into the common so what i've done there is i've taken my cable
straight on my consumer unit and i've got my neutral cpc and line conductor coming out
and i've brought that cable directly into my switch i've left the neutral at the moment
floating the cpc is connected into the earth terminal we use plastic boxes at college it could
be into a metal box or a metal front you need to make the cpc connection in the appropriate place
and my line conductor in this case from the top of my fuse comes directly into the common of my
switch so comes directly into the common of my one gang one way switch okay so it's in there
so that's the first cable brought in and then we're going to bring a cable out that comes
out and feeds our lighting point or lighting points depending on how it's going to work
so again this is this is tricky for me because obviously i want to keep cables away and make it
as clear as i possibly can in here but the neutral itself is going to need joining so if i put just
something on there to suggest that's a connection of some sort so that's a connector it could be
a simple 5 amp connector block in the back of the box it could be one made by somebody like Wago so
it could be a Wago connector or something like this from Insure but they're gonna need to make
a connection in there some switches themselves actually have an extra terminal spare for a
neutral connection okay that might become more and more common as the years pass but we're at college
gonna probably have to be using a connector and leave it floating in the back of the box itself
so all i'm gonna do now is bring out a cable which will have a switching line
cpc and neutral up to my light fitting itself so let's start off by looking at the neutral
gonna have to bring it round and try and clear my switch so it's how does Gary do it so it makes it
look nice and neat that's the problem so let's bring out the neutral okay and i'll just try and
drift it around the bottom here and then i can look to bring that one out so my neutral comes out
we're going to bring out our cpc so that one comes out and we're going to bring out our
switching line conductor which will come out of L1 so we're going to bring that round as well
so you notice it's a little crowded in there so once i've got it in this position here you
can clearly see that's one cable so that is one cable twin and cpc coming in with a permanent line
neutral and cpc and then we've got a twin and cpc cable coming out they're a one mil at my college
with a switching line neutral and cpc so it's just a case now of making sure we we
join these up in a logical manner so we take our green one we'll take our brown brown one
so our switching line conductor into here and then finally we'll take our neutral round as well
it wouldn't matter which holes were used in this connection here if they were unlabeled if
they were labeled we'd have to put them in the appropriate terminals and then that connection
would connect directly to the actual LED light so we'd bring either just the switching line
and neutral through to my LED light or if the led light wasn't double insulated we bring the
cpc as well so remember we're looking for a double insulated symbol on the actual
light fitting like so to suggest it doesn't need a cpc so if we look at this one here
you can see we have the double insulated symbol just there and therefore the only connections
required for this one are switching line and neutral in order to make those connections
so this is our LED light fit and these are our two cables we've taken our supply
a permanent line neutral and cpc from in this case our consumer unit directly into the switch
the permanent line went into common we made a connection for our neutrals that wasn't
currently in the switch so we made that using one of our connectors and we connect
our cpc into our earth terminal that was our first one millimeter squared cable coming in
then we took another one millimeter squared cable out and we took out our switching line
our neutral and our cpc again which my students are likely to want to put a
a yellow stripe down it is only one cable remember but it just looks a little bit more like it an
order that we bring up here switching line neutral and cpc and we feed this light if we wanted more
than one spotlight saying the room to come on all we would do would be taking a green and yellow
blue and a neutral in other words another one of these cables from the same connecting points to
the next spotlight the next spotlight and the next spotlight and you find then you've only
got a maximum of two twin and cpc cables at any one spotlight in the system if you're using the
two plate method the two plate method means the supply comes into the switch and then we make our
connections in here and we bring one cable out in order to feed our LED downlights etc a very common
practice in industry using the two plate method and i do have other videos on the channel where i
show how to make all the connections physically on a board and how to test the one way then i extend
it to two-way and two-way intermediate this is the first video in this series
of which we're using the two-plate method for wiring diagrams there will be a link in the
description for all the drawings i've used in my series on lighting circuits if you wanted to
download this and make your own version up or perhaps even fill it in similar to me remember
students you will be using a ruler Gary hasn't used a ruler and i've also done it upside down
so you'll be making a slightly neater job than this and you might want to label that
as a connector as well in the actual switch itself so as always i hope this video has been some help
you