Hi, I'm Eric from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com and today i'm going to show you change wheel bearings.
We're going to do that today using our Tusk Bearing Removal Tool.
Some things we're going to need today. We need some good high-quality grease.
Some good high quality bearings. We sell both Pivot Works and All Balls.
And some contact cleaner.
The Tusk Bearing Removal Tool comes with different sized collets so you can remove bearings ranging from 8mm to 30mm I.D.
To demonstrate this we're gonna go ahead and pick the collet that is closest to the inside diameter of the bearing.
Slide that in, and we'll thread in the spreader bolt which will spread the fingers against the inner race of the bearing.
Then we'll go ahead and attach the slide hammer and slide it out.
We're going to start today by removing the spacer on a KTM hub.
We're going to go ahead and pick a collet that is just slightly smaller than the spacer.
We're going to slide it in and spread the fingers.
With the spreader bolt we're going to attach the slide hammer and pull it out.
On KTM's the spacer is more of a press fit. Other models you wouldn't need to do this step.
That slides right out and its exposed are outer seal.
We're just going to go ahead and use a flat blade screwdriver to pop that out.
They normally come out pretty easy.
Once the seal is removed, go ahead and check for any bearing retainers. Sometimes there's a clip, sometimes a threaded piece.
Different bikes have different sorts of retainers. Some don't have any at all.
The retainer must be removed to get the bearing out.
Now we're going to go ahead and choose our collet that is once again just slightly smaller than the inner race of the bearing.
If you use a collet that's considerably smaller than the bearing and try to use the spreader bolt it's possible to break the fingers off.
So you need to make sure and get as close to the right diameter as possible.
We're going to go ahead and slide our slide hammer on it again. This is going to take more force.
Go ahead and turn the wheel over and repeat the steps for the other side
Be careful on some rear wheels, you'll have two bearings on the sprocket side.
It's a lot easier to remove those one at a time then trying to pull both of them together.
As we prepare for reassembly, we want to make sure everything is clean. Use some contact cleaner.
Make sure there's no old rust and residue.
Install your center spacer.
We've already installed the bearings on the other side at this point.
We're going to go ahead and once again grease the hub up so the bearing will slide in a little easier.
It won't hang up on anything.
As we install this we need to be really careful not to apply any force to the inner race.
So as we tap this in with a hammer make sure we're just hitting on the outside race.
And of course we want it to go in as level as possible
As you can see I'm not hitting it, I'm just barely tapping it.
Now we're going to use a large socket and once again we just want to make sure we just touch on the outer race of that bearing.
Any force that's applied to the inner race is going to weaken your bearing
Go ahead and seat that down. You'll be able to hear the different sound when it is seated.
At this point you'd reinstall any retaining clips if your bike was equipped.
We're going to go ahead and lube up the seal
And most of the time you can just use your fingers to press that in.
Now you're ready for your spacer.
And you are complete.
The Tusk Bearing Remover also works great for blind bearings such that you would find in an engine case.
There's no way to really knock that out so it needs to be pulled out, so here we're finding the collet that 's just slightly smaller than the inner race.
Threading in the spreader bolt.
Attaching the slide hammer.
And pulling it out.
This makes a bearing that was nearly impossible to remove an easy task.