Stripe and plaid matching seems tricky but with these simple tips you'll be able
to skillfully plaid match your next sewing project.
Almost all matching happens in the cutting phase, so get ready to play with your pattern pieces
Tip #1: purchase a little extra fabric. Have you ever noticed in a pattern's instructions that it
says to purchase additional yardage if using napped or printed fabric? Well when matching
plaids and stripes this is definitely one of those cases. Generally for small scale patterns
you'll want to purchase an extra half yard and for large scale patterns a full yard should cover you.
Plus, if you buy a little extra you can make little experiments to see how certain areas
like a shirt placket will come together. Tip #2: prioritize which seams you want to match. It's
often impossible to match every single seam, but you can rank which seams are most important to you.
I like to order them by how visible they are. This will of course depend on the pattern but I like to
start with matching center front and back since those seams sit front and center on your body.
Then I'll aim to match the sleeves since they're also highly visible.
If it has sleeves, I won't prioritize matching the side seams but if it's sleeveless
I'll try to cut out pieces so that the stripes or plaids go around my body in a continuous line.
Lastly and only if possible, I'll try to match the shoulders for a nice little detail.
Tip #3: cut some pieces on the bias. If your pattern has a lot of pieces, cutting some
of them on the bias instead of straight will look awesome and save you some time. You'll notice this
on lots of ready-to-wear shirts. Often the back yokes, pockets and plackets are cut on the bias.
It's a really classic look and draws attention to the lines of the garment instead of obscuring them.
Sleeve cuffs and plackets and collars and collar stands are fiddly areas that can stretch out and
become hard to sew if cut on the bias. Just match these areas as best as you can and move on.
Tip #4: use tracing paper. To really help visualize how the plaids or stripes are going to
look on your pieces before cutting them out use tracing paper. Tip #5: draw seam allowances
on your pattern pieces. You'll want to draw in the seam allowances on all of the pattern pieces you
want to match. The reason for this is that you want your stripes to match at the seam where they're
sewn, not at the raw edge. Tip #6: draw match lines on your pattern pieces. For example
since patterns are drafted for the underarm points to meet drawing a straight line connecting these
points across the front back and sleeves is a quick way to make sure your plaids meet on these
pieces. You can also use the notches on the side seams. Tip #7: draw the fabric's pattern
on the pattern pieces. Use a soft lead pencil to trace the images that are on the fabric onto the
paper pattern. This is especially helpful for the next tip. Tip #8: cut pieces flat. Although
it can be done, cutting pieces on the fold is challenging when trying to match plaids and
stripes. Instead cut out your pieces flat to make sure every line is where you want it. This can also
save you from needing to buy a lot of extra fabric. Tip #9: take some extra steps when sewing.
Use more pins than usual and pin more carefully. It is a good idea to baste and make corrections
before sewing those highly visible seams, especially when working with knits or slippery
fabrics. Hand-baste those tricky seams that want to slip out of alignment. Sometimes you might have to
move a piece up or down by an eighth of an inch or so to keep the pattern matched. Don't worry as this
will often fall in the seam allowance and won't affect the construction of the garment. You can
also move patch pockets a little if you didn't cut them out perfectly, no one will ever know. A
walking foot can help feed your fabric evenly and ensure that your stripes and plaid stay lined up.
Tip #10: practice. Matching plaids, stripes, and large scale prints is not as hard as it sounds
but it can feel daunting and time-consuming. Many sewists figure out how to match through
trial and error, so remember take your time, have fun and know it's okay if things are a little off.
What are your plaid and stripe matching tips? Comment down below happy sewing!