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hi i'm leia amic and we're in my shop in
southeast portland i'm a
multi-disciplinary designer focusing
mostly on furniture
and today i'm going to show you how to
make this lamp that i designed and built
using the shaper origin
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we're going to start with the neck which
goes through a lot of different
processes including book matching and
we'll then move on to the base and learn
how to create kind of an intricate joint
and then we'll make a lampshade
structure
which will then be followed by making an
actual shade and wiring up the lamp so
to get started it's best to print out
the instructions so you can follow along
as you go use the cut list in the
instructions to make sure you cut
everything to the right size the width
and depth of each piece can be slightly
larger however the thickness of all of
your stock pieces is very critical
okay so for the first part of this
project we're going to learn to make the
neck of the lamp
you're going to start with kind of a
thicker piece of wood cut it in half in
order to make two mirrored pieces where
the grain matches and this is so that we
can avoid having a seam
down the middle of the neck not
necessary but a nice option for just an
overall and better look
because these neck pieces are mirrored
including the grain on your book matched
stock make sure you're keeping track of
the orientation of the pieces on the
workstation
each mirrored neck piece has
holes for alignment pins which helps in
making sure everything is aligned when
you glue up both sides there's also a
channel running through each side that
creates a space for the cord to slide
through
i just finished creating a grid
the grid is really important so you can
make sure your piece is oriented
correctly especially on the neck because
of the mirrored green
before you cut the alignment pin holes
measure the size of your dowels because
even if it says it's a quarter of an
inch it may not be
test fit your alignment pin holes before
cutting all four
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for this next step we're going to use a
round nose bit to make the channel for
the cord to make sure you have the
correct fit with the cloth covered cord
it's important to sneak up on the depth
and have the actual cord you'll be using
with you
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if the cord doesn't fit quite as well as
you want on the first side you can
always make adjustments when you cut the
second side i'm using an eighth inch bit
for the profile instead of a quarter
inch because the joint needs
a smaller radius
so i like to leave just a tiny bit of
material so that i don't cut into the
double stick tape because it makes your
bit all gummy and then you have to clean
it several times
the second piece of the neck is the same
process but the shape is mirrored
here are your two parts and fit together
perfectly
once you have both sides cut place your
dowels in the alignment pin holes
use the alignment pins to make sure
everything fits together properly
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you want to have both sides book matched
so you can hide this seam down the
center
dark wood glue is great when you're
working with walnut
when you're gluing the neck pieces
together the most important part is to
make sure you don't get glue into the
channel where the cord will go
the most important part to make sure is
clamped fully is the joint since that
has to fit
into the base
as you can see there's a little bit of
squeeze out and that's easiest to clean
with a wet towel before the glue dries
you could also consider applying finish
to the outside of both neck pieces
before gluing it together because wood
glue doesn't really stick to wood finish
you should leave
your piece clamped overnight but to keep
things moving we're just going to set it
aside for about 30 minutes
the last step for the lamp neck is to
cut the rounded end the top
use the custom anchor
to place vector at the end of the neck
before putting the threaded inserts into
the neck make sure the glue has had a
chance to dry overnight
in this step we're going to be going
from 5 8 inch stock to a round base for
the lamp the base piece is bigger than
the shelf that comes with the
workstation so i've made my own shelf
with a bit more depth and width to cut
larger pieces
and i just need to make sure that it's
centered on the stalk and that the grain
direction is going the way i want it
to start cutting this base piece first
i'm going to cut away as much material
as they can so that the angled perimeter
is easier and quicker to cut
we're going to use the 10 degree bit to
add an angle to the profile of the base
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the final step for the base is to cut
out the joint so you'll want to clamp it
vertically to the workstation make sure
that you have a spoil board included to
avoid tear out and you want the angle
going in towards the workstation
use a support bar on the workstation to
make sure that the tab is flush with the
top of the workstation as you clamp it
vertically this makes sure that the
joint where the neck will be placed is
aligned properly
this quarter inch slot is in the center
of this tab so that we can create a
center probe rather than using the edges
and make sure that we have the joint
perfectly centered with the base
use the custom anchor point to make sure
the svg is centered on the tab
you're going to want to sneak up on a
tight fit to start with an offset and
test fit with the neck
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for this step i'll be showing you how to
make the lampshade structure
it looks pretty simple from a distance
but there are quite a few pieces in
there
but as long as you follow the
instructions it's quite straightforward
to assemble we have a ring on the
outside and you'll see that there's that
10 degree angle again which gives the
shade its shape
these tabs connect the ring to the cap
which holds all of the electronic
components there are also support pieces
that sandwich the shade and connect
everything to the neck and the base of
the lamp
all of these operations are performed on
the workstation make sure you cut the
corner piece before all of the other
shade structure parts
when you are cutting the interior
support piece you want to make sure that
this joint pocket is cut first and you
want to offset it a little bit so you
can sneak up on the fit with this corner
piece
that should
so this part might be a matter of
preference but personally i like to cut
all of the small details for both pieces
out before i cut an entire piece this
also lets you use a smaller bit on all
these details and then switch to a
larger bit or a bit of a quicker process
to cut the parts out
next we're going to cut this ring which
holds the shade and these tabs that hold
the cap to the ring this file just needs
to be centered on the stalk when you cut
the tab with the corner piece joint do
the same thing that you did with the
interior support so make sure you offset
the cut a little bit and then sneak up
on the fit with the corner piece
next step is to cut these pockets to fit
with these tabs and again make sure you
offset just a bit so you can sneak up on
the fit
cut out the center of the ring before
you cut the pockets for the tabs so you
can make sure that the tabs actually fit
the last step is to use your 10 degree
angle bit to cut around the perimeter
here's the finished piece with the angle
around the perimeter
now we're going to cut the cap for the
shade structure
again you'll want to sneak up on
the width of this cut to make sure that
it fits with these tabs
with this part just make sure
that the file is centered on your stock
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the final step with the cap similar to
the ring is to cut around the perimeter
with the 10 degree angle bit
here are all the pieces that you need
for the shade structure sanding and
clean up easier between each of these
glue up steps
it's best to do all of your sanding and
apply finish anywhere that isn't a joint
so now that we have all of our parts cut
out we'll start gluing the shade
structure together
as you're clamping make sure that the
tabs are fully seated in the pockets
at this stage it's good to use the cap
and make sure that everything is aligned
correctly
you can even leave the cap on while the
glue dries
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now it'll just
set it aside to dry
next we're going to glue the interior
support to the corner piece to get the
angle correct make sure
that the corner piece is fully seated in
the interior support dry fit these
pieces together before you glue them
this is not a symmetrical part before
gluing the neck into the base install
the threaded inserts
to make glue up easier i've cut out some
glue up jigs that are at the same angle
as the neck and the edge of the base
you can either put finish on each of
your pieces keeping that finish out of
the joints before gluing up the neck and
the base or you can put packing tape
around the joint to make glue clean up
easier in tight spaces glue doesn't
adhere to end grain so it's most
important to
get a nice thin layer everywhere else
i've set this angle to 10 degrees which
matches the glue-up jig pieces this will
make sure that you have the neck and the
base of the correct angle these pieces
will help with that as well if you don't
have something like this you can always
cut it out in origin
sand the assembly between glue up steps
you can also apply finish avoiding the
joints to make cleanup easier
when you're gluing the cap onto the ring
assembly make sure that the grain is
matching the ring for the purposes of
this demo i haven't put finish on this
assembly so we can speed things up a
little bit
don't forget to clean up any glue
squeeze out use a block to distribute
pressure across all the tabs
okay wait for that to dry
make sure the interior support is at the
correct angle as you're gluing all the
parts together this is the last step in
creating the shade structure
this is really important in making sure
that the shade creates the correct form
the final step in cutting all the pieces
for the shade structure is to cut the
long dowel and the short dowel the short
dowel is a blind one and that's why it's
so small if you have a really tight fit
you don't have to glue the dowels in
place if you glue the dowels in place
make sure that they go into the blind
holes the smaller one being on the end
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one of the last steps for creating this
lamp is creating the fabric shade to do
that we're going to cut out a flat
template which can be used multiple
times in case you're making more than
one lamp that template will then be
traced onto some adhesive back styrene
and fabric of your choosing can be
applied to that styrene to create a
tapered lampshade here's your finished
template you'll see that there are holes
on one side and slots on the other these
slots are really important to help with
alignment and the form of the shade once
you have your template cut out you can
put small pieces of double-sided tape to
make sure you keep it on the styrene
make sure you're taping on the adhesive
side of the styrene you can tell that it
is the adhesive side because it has a
paper-like feel use a thin marker to
trace your template onto the styrene you
can cut out the styrene using scissors
or a sharp knife if you're using a knife
a straight edge is very helpful
there you go now we're ready for fabric
when you're ready to put the fabric onto
the styrene make sure you're using a
clean relatively flat surface
make sure you don't have any bubbles
smooth out the fabric as you go
the fabric doesn't need to be the same
shape as the styrene yet so it's okay if
it's a little off as long as you have
plenty of space here for the tape
now carefully
apply the double stick tape to the
fabric making sure not to overlap on the
styrene
it takes a little time to follow the
curve just go slow and the fabric will
start to fold with the tape but that's
okay
make sure you're putting the tape on the
same side as the styrene
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once you have tape on both sides cut
through both the fabric and the tape and
follow the curve around the styrene make
sure you leave at least 3 16 of an inch
make sure you cut this
straight and smooth because even though
it's on the inside of the shade it will
show once the light is on as a shadow
use the interior and exterior support of
the shade structure along with the long
and short dowel to wrap the shade around
the assembly
you can customize the look and feel of
your lamp by changing things like the
cord color the fabric on the lampshade
and the wood species of the body we
won't cover the wiring in this video but
to learn to wire your lamp visit the
link in the instructions once your lamp
body is complete thread the cord through
the neck
the cord should fit perfectly in the
channel
if your cord doesn't fit perfectly in
the channel you can put a little bit of
double stick tape to keep it in place
if you do put double stick tape into the
channel plan on pressing this in at the
very end after you've wired the lamp so
that everything fits correctly
after you've threaded the cord through
make sure you have plenty of slack at
the top for wiring
thread your cord through the hardware
and the shade structure and follow the
tutorial in the instructions to wire
your lamp
it's easiest to attach the shade to the
neck before you
attach the socket to the shade structure
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rubber or felt feet help keep the lamp
stable
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and now you're all done
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you