Greater Cairo is the largest city in all of Africa
with a population of 22 million people.
To Egyptians
Cairo is "Umm ad-Dunya"
the Mother of the World.
The central character in Egypt’s play.
Spread along the banks of the Nile
and surrounded by desert
over 60% of Cairo has developed in a completely unregulated free-for-all.
People just arrive and find a spot to shoehorn in another apartment.
Where do they build?
Straight up.
Every rooftop is just a floor for the next arrival.
It’s actually a good way to avoid corrupt inspectors
around here, building permits cost a bundle.
Since it almost never rains in Cairo
a roof is optional.
But life isn’t easy when you live this close together.
Too many buildings in too little space
means most interior apartments don’t have a single window.
Instead, they build narrow shafts down the center of the buildings
to catch a little light and the hope of a breeze.
The rooftop is where you want to be.
Some squatters have even built simple toilets
and showers
and brought in some greenery.
But unplanned growth has other consequences.
Streets are often too narrow for an ambulance
or fire truck.
And traffic is in perpetual gridlock.
No one leaves room for schools,
hospitals,
or police stations.
Let alone parks or even trees.
Though they always fit in a corner mosque or two.
And, of course, coffee houses.
Despite the noise,
pollution,
chaos,
and crowds,
they’ve managed to create a village atmosphere
They even have a committee in charge of decorating for Ramadan.
Kids play out in the street
despite the summer heat.
Small businesses thrive.
From vegetables
to hand-made scales.
And, of course, the local barber shop.
It’s the center for village gossip
and politics.
With unemployment skyrocketing
and unrest everywhere,
these poor neighborhoods are the first to be radicalized.
Even in the best of times
foreigners are not welcome here.
In an effort to solve the city’s growing overpopulation
the government has zoned eight New Towns outside of Cairo
smack in the middle of the desert.
Here the roads are wide and smooth.
There’s no traffic
and plenty of parking
There’s even a tree or two.
The government already put in all the infrastructure
sewage
electricity
and water
at incredible expense
and then build tens of thousands of apartments
most of which have been standing empty for so long
that they’re falling apart.
Some of Cairo’s New Towns have only 20% occupancy.
It’s because there are so few jobs out here
and no public transportation.
But a few areas have become wealthy enclaves
Luxurious
gated communities
hidden behind walls of manicured greenery.
with swimming pools
water-intensive lawns
and lots and lots of flowers.
People to trim your hedges
collect your garbage
and country club membership.
and most importantly - malls.
Filled with American franchises.
You can understand why Egyptians sometimes
feel overwhelmed by Western brands.