so i continue on on my presentations of taking the feed to the switch i've simulated here three
lighting points that have the feed coming down to the switch and in each case a switching line
and neutral coming back and we're now going to make a decision of how we're going to connect the
neutrals together and the CPCs within the actual light switch itself we've got some choices of the
way go or inshore almost maintenance freestyle connectors one with the levers and one with
a straight push fit we've got the standard 5 amp connector block as well as through crimps so we're
going to do three different styles of connections within the three switches and then work out which
one of them is easier or not easier to make a connection for testing at the switch so a couple
of things in this presentation how to make the connections for the neutrals in the CPC's using
different styles Insure Wago five amp connector blocks and through crimps and then how can we get
a testing connection within the switch to prove say for instance the CPC is present at the switch
let's see how we're going to connect those switches up so i'm going to make off one of
the switches i'll make off the first switch and then i'll progress and make some of the other
connections off on the other switch so we can just show the connections for the neutrals and
the CPC's it switches two and three without having to do the line conductors so what we've got is one
cable coming in is bringing in the permanent line a neutral and a CPC and then the one going out is
taking a switching line neutral and CPC we'll make off the connections into the back of the one-way
switch and then we'll make a decision how we're going to join together the neutrals and the CPC so
first of all just connect the permanent line and the switching line in the back of a one-way switch
i'll show you this set of wire strippers first these combination wire strippers which i don't
allow my students to use because they are too easy so this is the bit where they'll be absolutely
fuming when i show them this so i place my conductor in it holds and pinches and believe it
or not it removes the conductor's insulation we'll do that again just to show you can take a little
bit more off and we pull it off and there we are so we can now make a doubled over termination for
the back of our switch i'll do it again here hold it into position it clamps and holds and
then pulls away the outside insulation i'll show you again so we've got our conductors exposed we
don't do it like that in my college we usually use a knife in order to score around and then we pull
off the insulation but just to show you that we can use a combination set of wire strippers
still going to need to double it over so take my pliers and i'm going to double over
my terminations to go in the back of my light switch maybe just trim that one back a fraction
and double that one over as well
and now we're ready to secure those terminations in the back of the one-way switch doesn't matter
which one goes in common and which one goes in L1 at this stage if they're the wrong way around
we'll just physically turn the switch up the other way to get the correct throw so here we go
so there we have it we've connected the permanent line and the switching line into the switch i'm
not going to screw it back yet because obviously we've got to terminate the neutrals and the CPC's
first one out we're going to use the Wago style and the insure style to connect these two together
and see how simple they are so let's do that next so i've put my CPC sleeving on and my conductors
are considerably longer than that required to go into either an inshore or a Wago connector now i'm
going to do the same with the neutrals and make them approximately the same length before we start
and it's suggested in both manufacturers cases that you leave 11 mil they try and give you a
little bit of an aid and be very difficult to see on here there is actually a black line there
denoting the length of 11 mil and on this style one they actually leave a recess in the
top so when you lay it in like so if you cut the insulation back to that length that also gives you
the 11 mil required for this style of connector as well so let's see if we can approximately
do that so this time i'm going to do it more styled conventionally with my knife trim around
like so if i take this style here i can just work out approximately 11 millimeters i'm
fractioned along on that one and fractionally long on that one so just trim those back
and i can confirm it on the other style by laying it in there or laying it in like so
yeah approximately 11 mil so i'm going to put my neutrals into the inshore style way go make
a similar one as well i just wanted to use two different manufacturers you lift the arms up in
both cases this is a two-way one so they will join the two together and push it into position
and clip it down to cross glass bit and then again for the second one and again fully inserted before
clasping down onto the conductors and they do not pull free want to release them reverse the
process and you can remove the conductor not quite the case with this style this style on
the Wago ones are one hit wonders so once you've pushed them in they're in position and held firm
i have chosen a four-way one this time just in case i wanted to add another conductor in there
obviously the two that would already be in there would be fastened into position not to be able to
be removed so you'd have to cut it off and change the style so i've gave two spare ones this time
so i need to trim it down to 11 mil so if i offer it i can see how much roughly to cut off
cut it back to about there in both cases now i simply push it into position nice and firmly
like so and then this one push it in and it firmly grasps those connections okay so okay both in and
firm and secured i've left two spare ones and they've grasped nice and tight so we've used
what they classed as maintenance-free connectors we've got the inshore type and the Wago type
holding now my CPC's together so joining those two together and joining my two neutrals together so
that's the first style of connector that we could use in the back of the switch itself
i'm going to make off the other two switches and just concentrate on how we're going to join the
CPC's and neutrals together in the next part of the presentation so switch position two and
three are now prepared and ready to go i'm going to use a standard five amp connector block for
the connecting the two CPC's and the two neutrals together so two connector blocks to go into this
one just a brass block with two screws at the top to pinch together or squeeze together the
two terminations so CPC's go into the five amp connector block and we simply tighten it down
both screws then we take one for the neutrals and we join those two together as well
like so
so we've screwed together the two neutrals in this side and the two CPC's here and again these can
be positioned in the back of the switch itself so we've used first of all our maintenance freestyle
ones inshore and Wago and now we've used the standard sort of five amp connector blocks that
are widely used final one we're going to use now is a through crimp so i'll get ready for
that next next i'm using a red through crimp read for one to 1.5 mil cable i'm using one mil cable
and we insert the conductors one in each side so one in from one side and one in from the other
and just got to be careful now to make sure we get our crimping tool with a section that will crimp
so in this case there's a little dot on this one which is the bit that crimps the tube
and then there's no markings on the other side that just squashes up the plastic this side so
holding the conductors together i crimp one side i turn the round so i've gone
from that position there i've spun it around making my dot section this side and i crimp up
this section here give me a little tug just to see that they're held together they are and i'll
repeat the process again now for my CPCs one in from one side one in from the other side
making sure my crimping tool got my dot in this case for the center section spin it through
crimp up again so now i've got my crimp connections on this one so maintenance
freestyle inshore and Wago five amp connector blocks and through crimps now there's three
differing methods that we can join together our two neutrals and our two CPC's in each of
our lighting switching points that we've had a feed drop down to it so we've dropped down
line and neutral and CPC and we've come out from the switch with a switching line neutral and CPC
so we've had to join together the two CPC's and together the two neutrals fully insulated
switches so the switches themselves don't need to be connected to the CPC at this stage
let's see how we're gonna go about now making a continuity of CPC test at the switch
now that we've got through crimps fire amp connectors and maintenance freestyle ones in
the next part of the presentation so i'm ready to prove continuity of CPC at my switch in initial
verification you need to prove continuity of CPC at all points also that it could be changed in
the future for an exposed conductive part that would be required to be connected to the CPC
zeroed out my leads and i'm going to prove the CPC makes it to the way to the switch so we're going
to the top connection which in this case is the common and we go into the connector block and i
have a reading of 0.12 of an ohm therefore proving continuity of CPC to the switching point itself
let's see how easy it's going to be when we move across to the maintenance freestyle connectors
next the problem i've got now is that these tips are too large to make the connections
inside either the way go or the inshore style one so we're going to have to change one of these tips
for a considerably smaller tip that will allow us to make a connection in this case on the top
surface of this style connection and inside of the Wago one in order to make a connection for the CPC
so we're gonna have to change our probe tip and we're going to remove the resistance of the lead
before we make a connection and try and prove the continuous CPC at this light switch so i'm going
to attempt to probe on in both positions in order to get a realistic reading so into the top of the
common and into the top of the connection itself my reading is when it settles in i've got 0.1615
0.15 of an ohm proving continuity to this connection it's not the easiest connection to
make with these probes i do prefer the top entry style ones are a little bit easier but i'm sure
some practice you'll be able to make a connection in order to connect either in this case the CPC
and line in order to get a continuity test let's see how we're going to do it with the through
crimps in the next stage so once again to get into the actual connection here for the CPC i'm
going to use my thin probe hopefully i can just slide it past the conductor and catch hold of the
conductor and then go on to the top of the switch to get a reading of 0.09 for the continuity CPC
at this switching point i've got approximately the same amount of cable at each circuit there isn't a
lot of difference in the resistance of the joints so it's just the cable length that i've inserted
to each of the switching points so we've seen how we can make a continuity CPC test relatively easy
obviously with the five amp connector a little bit more difficult when we're using the maintenance
free one and we've managed to modify the same sort of technique in order to connect into the through
crimp in order to prove continuity of CPC at these points i hope this video has been some help