(grunting sounds)
(upbeat music)
- Hello , and welcome back
to the LARAMY-K Optician Works training center
where yes, we did take a little bit of a break
for the last couple of months.
As it happens so often I was working on one project
when I got a question over on YouTube
that was a perfect match for what I was working on.
So today we are going to take a look
at how you resize or reshape a set of lenses
to go from one frame
into another to handle those emergency situations.
We are going to call this Customer Own Lenses
into a new frame.
Is this ever a good idea?
Well, no for a lot of reasons it's not.
But we generally are doing this as a emergency repair
or an emergency fix or an act of goodwill.
As is always the case,
the first thing we're going to do in this process
is mark the lenses.
An R, an L, an arrow up.
And only after we have done that,
assuming they are still in the frame,
will we pop those two lenses out.
Then you will literally walk the frame board, holding it up.
Compare it, look, shop, find a cheap, generic Zyl frame,
as close as you can get to the shape that you need.
You might get lucky, you often do.
Either just forcing them in,
a little bit of heat and popping them.
If you don't, then we're going to hit the bench
and I'm going to show you what to do.
We're doing this as an emergency situation
as an act of goodwill, you control the conversation.
We are not worried about the color of this frame,
we are not worried about the style of it.
We don't care if the PD is going to be off by a millimeter
or two on each side, the OC, the progressive fit.
There's really very little we can control about that.
We're using the frame that wasn't designed
for this particular lens.
So you know if the customer says," Well, I don't like red."
Well, emergency situation act of goodwill,
they're just gonna have to get over that, aren't they?
And document, document, document.
Make absolutely certain that you've written
in every possible place on this customer's record
what you have done.
We will not reuse this frame.
This frame is going to be overheated to force these lenses
if we are not going to warranty or guarantee it.
You cannot come back and choose another one.
Another really important piece of this
is if they end up somewhere else,
the optician there is trying to figure out what on earth
that place down the street did.
If they call and ask you, you can explain it.
Don't say I didn't warn you.
We are gonna hit the bench.
We're going to take a sharp sharpie,
we're going to work with a handstone,
we're going to look at the Edge R function for frame change.
You can do this and you should be able to do this
and if your name badge says optician or you have a license,
well you sure as heck better be able to do this.
Let's hit the bench.
You all know that it is pretty rare
for me to say that something is easy.
In the big picture of things cutting a lens down
to fit another frame really isn't that hard to do.
As I just mentioned on the whiteboard
the first thing we're going to do is mark up these lenses.
So I'm gonna go ahead and do that before moving that camera.
If this was an $85 progressive
and an $85 progressive fancy thing AR
I'm trying to save a job or something,
I would be hitting this with the surface tape
to protect them from any harm.
In this case, it's just a pair
of CR 39 basic single vision lenses.
Got my right, my right, my left ,tick mark for up.
All right. Once I have got that done,
then and only then would I pop my right lens out.
I am gonna take this right lens
and I am literally gonna walk my frame board
holding it up and looking at every single plastic frame
I have on the board to try to get as close
as I possibly can.
Of course, I only have about 30 frames
to choose from and only 10 of those came even close.
But this isn't bad.
This is the lens that I need to cut down.
I've got it marked from my right.
I've got an up arrow.
I've got my three lens meter dots for a 180 and an OC.
This is the shape that I need to cut it down to.
I'm gonna lay that over that
and I'm gonna keep it as centered as possible.
Left, right and up, down.
I'm not gonna jam it over into the corner.
I want to bring this down in a uniform pattern.
I'm gonna get that lined up, looks pretty darn good.
Take my pen, trace it.
I'm gonna end up with that.
When I take this lens,
hit the handstone and turn it into this shape
in that size then its gonna fit into that new frame
that I found on the board.
Gonna hit the wheel now
and I'm gonna bring the other camera around
and I'm gonna be rotating this lens,
the trick to this whole thing is keeping this moving.
So I'm gonna be doing a rocking motion.
You might wanna practice this.
I am sure that you have a tray sitting around in the lab,
that is just absolutely full of patient owned lenses
from other jobs.
Just practice rotating those lenses around like that,
and you'll get the hang of it
and it'll be a whole lot easier for you.
So let's hit the handstone and start taking this down.
(upbeat music)
(horn playing)
Okay, I always like to talk about the teachable moment.
And here is one for me.
When I set this project up I pulled some Trivex lenses.
Now this is a very old handstone,
it's got a 240 and a 100.
The bevel placement part is 240.
And you know what, it simply doesn't have enough abrasion
to cut Trivex.
So I was gonna fudge a little bit
and I went over to the edger
and I started digging this thing down some more,
but my hand is tired.
It's just not gonna work this way manually.
So I have to switch from Trivex to Poly.
And let's start this over again.
(machine rotating)
And here we go.
Let's see.
(machine grinding)
Look at that.
Look at how much better that looks.
Keeping that thing low and if you are,
look at that.
Material go flying off of there.
That's more like it.
Who would have thought?
(machine grinding lens)
Okay, I'm definitely at a point
where I could force that lens in.
Here we go.
Cutting a lens down from one frame to fit another
by hand on the handstone.
Resizing or reshaping lenses using an edger.
Good news, bad news.
Good news is an edger can do that
and when it works it works really well.
The bad news is that every single edger does it differently.
I can't cover all the possible scenarios.
Some edgers don't even have a frame change function.
The Lexi has an LMU or a Lens Measuring Unit,
a camera system that makes this incredibly easy,
which I'm going to show you in just a second.
Remember, if you have a really large lens
that you need to take down to fit a smaller frame
for an emergency situation, you can set your edger
or most edgers anyway onto like wheel-dressing mode,
you'll get that roughing wheel spinning,
reach in there and take down
that four or five six millimeters of extra that you have
using the roughing wheel then switch over to your handstone.
Like all things,
you just need to practice, practice, practice.
Let's throw this on and go through the steps
which I mentioned are incredibly easy.
Well remember this is the frame
that I went over to the board and found,
found that my lenses from my old frame
almost fit in here but not quite.
I could do this by hand,
but I'm gonna to use the edger instead.
I'm gonna load my frame,
gonna get a beautiful frame trace
just as I would have if I was making a pair of glasses
from scratch with full lenses.
I have all of my frame information
my beautiful trace, perfect.
I even have frame curve and frame angle.
Load up my blocks here.
I've got Trivex lenses,
single vision, plastic frame, normal.
I'm gonna hit my frame Change button.
Now, if I had a lens blank that was or a lens rather,
excuse me,
that was large enough that it acted like a full size blank,
I could simply run to this job.
I wouldn't need to hit the little frame Change button.
But what happens is if I get too close anywhere,
if my one corners really, really close to not cutting out,
the frame change button adds 1.5 millimeters
to the circumference of what it needs to work with.
In a way it's recognizing
that this already has a bevel on it.
So it's gonna account for taking that off
and recreating a new one.
In which case you may or may not choose
to just simply do it by hand
because you don't have that much you're taking down.
This requires the smaller of the two lens tables.
This is for the smaller cut lenses.
And I'm going to go ahead
62, I'm using a default PD,
rate center, center
or I'm already to my blocking phase.
I'm going to set my lens on here.
Now, what needs to happen here?
Well obviously, what needs to happen here
is that my lens, the darker black band here,
falls outside the range of my lighter white,
which is my actual frame.
Here's my actual frame
I'm cutting and putting that lens into,
here's the lens I'm cutting down,
it fits outside that box,
there is enough lens there to make this work.
So I can go ahead and load up my block.
And that lens on to my left,
could take this right lens, pop it in,
hit my chuck button, hit start, and we're good to go.
Couple of minutes I can pop that out
pop this right into this frame
and that emergency situation will have been dealt with.
Thank you so much for watching.
Please make sure that every lens
you reshape comes from Laramie K.
If you're watching us on YouTube,
please hit the subscribe button.
Watching me on Facebook, give us a like,
leave us a comment and I will see you again next week.
The Lexi has an LMU or a Lens Measuring Unit
(sigh)
(bleep)
(upbeat music)