- Within a half mile radius from where I'm standing,
there are more than 15 Thai restaurants.
In the last 20 years,
Thai restaurants have taken off in America, Europe, and Africa.
But that success is actually a little
out of whack with the number of Thai immigrants
around the world.
In the US, there's roughly one Mexican restaurant
for every 650 Mexican Americans.
But with Thai restaurants, there's one for every 55
or so Thai Americans.
- And it's not just because Thai food is delicious.
The explosion of Thai restaurants is paid for
by the Thai government.
The Thai government started a program
promoting this food in 2002 and it was the first example
of something that has become a trend in foreign policy.
It's called
gastrodiplomacy.
That means using food to extend a country's
cultural influence.
Gastrodiplomacy exists at the intersection of
two 21st century trends,
globalization and foodie culture.
It started as a way to strengthen nations,
but it's also expanding our national identity.
I'm Isabelle Niu.
This Is Quartz.
- Oh, hot!
Spicy!
Last year, Chalisa Fitts took over this Thai restaurant
in the heart of Washington, D.C.
And one day a strange call came in.
- From a Thai Embassy saying I was awarded,
by Thai Ministry of Commerce,
because my restaurant is authentic.
I actually first thought it was a scam.
It wasn't a scam.
A few days later, officials from the Thai embassy came
and presented her an award called Thai Select.
- I almost cried actually.
There is only five out of 65 Thai restaurants in D.C.
that were awarded.
This Thai Select program is a part of
Thailand's multifaceted effort to promote
its food globally.
Since 2002, the government has trained Thai chefs,
given out loans to restaurateurs
who wanted to go abroad,
studied the preferences of foreigners,
and has even come up with three prototypes
of Thai restaurants that would do well overseas.
- Thailand was the first to really conduct
a gastrodiplomacy campaign,
and they helped spread Thai restaurants
as a kind of a Thai Embassy if you will.
Paul Rockower is an expert on gastrodiplomacy.
- It's a form of nation branding, of
edible nation branding really, it's a way of promoting
soft power through promoting culture by focusing on
cuisine as the way to connect people.
And the Thai government's efforts have paid off.
Since the effort began, the number of Thai restaurants
around the world has tripled to over 15,000.
Helping Thai food go mainstream comes with
huge economic benefits too.
- People, you know, tried it more, visited Thailand more,
and the tourism increased because of it.
Today, Thailand is the most visited country
in Southeast Asia.
Travel and tourism accounts for more than 10% of its GDP.
And one third of that tourism spending
is on food and drinks.
Thailand's gastro diplomacy has inspired many
other countries to follow suit.
Several years ago, South Korea started what's called
Kimchi diplomacy.
Spending tens of millions of dollars promoting
its cuisine overseas.
It's made a ton of food related videos.
There's even an entire government-sponsored
English K-pop album just about food.
Other countries launching their own campaigns
include Peru, Malaysia, Lebanon and Taiwan.
These countries all have a lot to gain
from gastrodiplomacy.
They're relatively small, and view food as a way
to distinguish themselves.
But even superpowers, like Japan and the U.S.,
are doing gastrodiplomacy.
The Japanese government has even funded
its own catchy music video promoting its food.
All of these campaigns have helped diversify
the food we eat.
And that's the kind of foreign government interference
I can get behind.
Another reason why governments are jumping on
the gastrodiplomacy wagon has a lot to do with
the rise of foodie culture around the world.
- There is more of an interest in different types of food
and in things that might be a little
off the beaten path.
And that interest has created opportunities for
gastrodiplomacy on a much smaller scale,
by people like 25-year-old Mustafa Nuur.
- So right now we're making our Somali samosas.
Usually they're very spicy,
but this is the American version.
We try to not to kill anybody when they come here.
Mustafa and his family moved from Somalia
to Lancaster, Pennsylvania about four years ago.
The small city became known as the refugee capital
of America for settling refugees at a rate 20 times
that of the rest of the country.
But after the 2016 election, Mustafa says
attitude towards refugees changed.
- The people who loved refugees became more
passionate about it.
The people who didn't love refugees became
more passionate about it.
So he decided to start a program to connect refugees
and Lancaster residents through food.
- Hi. You Guys didn't get lost.
Come on in. Welcome please.
- When you sit together with somebody,
and there is an element of food,
it usually diffuses the tension.
Mustafa's program lets Lancaster residents
book a dinner with the local refugee family.
The family then cooks their traditional food
and eats with the guests.
We are new to the neighborhood as far as
being new refugees and immigrants.
And the best way to introduce ourselves
is through our food and our story.
- Welcome to our home. - Thank you.
He works with 16 refugee families in the area.
Over 3,000 people have booked meals.
I'm opening our doors and they are walking in our doors,
which is equally nerve-wracking for both parties.
- I'm sorry you went to the wrong house.
- If there's one that breaks apart you know which one it is.
- You have some Somali in you.
- 3,000 people had said, "I'm gonna go to a stranger's house
and I'm gonna learn about their culture."
So I will consider what the work I do gastrodiplomacy.
It's using food as a form of connecting cross-culturally,
cross-faith, cross-country,
so yeah.
Mustafa's program is part of a growing social movement.
Organizations around the world see gastrodiplomacy
as a way to help refugees and immigrants.
It goes beyond seeing food as a symbol of nationalism.
And that's what gastro diplomacy can do:
turn something that seems foreign and exotic
into a part of our everyday life.
- Thank you. - Thank you again. Appreciate it.