Black tie is a dress code for evening events and social functions derived from British
and American costume conventions of the 19th century. Worn only for events after 6 p.m.,
black tie is less formal than white tie but more formal than informal or business dress.
It is also more formal than recent intermediate codes of “creative,” “alternate” or
“optional” black tie. For men, the elements of black tie are:
A white dress shirt A black bow tie
An evening waistcoat or cummerbund A suit, of black or midnight blue wool, in
which the jacket lapels and trouser braid are of silk or other contrasting material
Black dress shoes. Women's dress for black tie occasions has
varied greatly through the years; traditionally it was:
Evening shoes Dinner or tea length sleeveless evening gown,
often accompanied by: A wrap or stole and
Gloves
Today women's dress for black tie occasions is:
Evening shoes and A cocktail length dress.
History When the dinner jacket first came into fashion
in the Victorian era, it was used as a less formal alternative for the tailcoat which
men of the upper classes wore every evening. Thus it was worn with the standard accompaniments
for the evening tailcoat at the time: matching trousers, white or black waistcoat, white
bow tie, white detachable wing-collar formal shirt and black formal shoes. Lapels were
often faced or edged in silk or satin in varying widths. Dinner jackets were considered from
the first less formal than full dress and etiquette guides declared it inappropriate
for wear in mixed company. During the Edwardian era, the practice of
wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the convention,
establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes. The dinner
jacket was also increasingly accepted at less formal evening occasions such as warm-weather
gatherings or intimate dinners with friends. After World War I, the dinner jacket became
de facto evening wear, while the evening tailcoat was limited to extremely formal or ceremonial
occasions. During this interwar period, double-breasted jackets, turndown-collar shirts and cummerbunds
became popular for black-tie evenings as did white and colored jackets in warm weather.
In the decades following World War II, black tie became special occasion attire rather
than standard evening wear. In the 1950s, colored and patterned jackets, cummerbunds
and bow ties and narrow lapels became very popular; the 1960s and 1970s saw the color
palette move from muted to bright day-glow and pastel, as well as ruffled-placket shirts
as lapels got wider and piping was revived. The 1980s and 1990s saw a return to nostalgic
styles, with black jackets and trousers again becoming nearly universal. In the 2000s, midnight
blue once again became popular, lapel facings were sometimes reduced to wide edging and
long ties were often substituted for the iconic bow tie. Black or colored shirts were more
frequently worn. The elements of black tie
Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black-tie ensembles can display more variation.
In brief, the traditional components for men are:
A jacket with silk facings on a shawl collar, peaked lapel or notched lapel. Many current
fashion stylists and writers see notched lapels as less formal although they were used in
some of the early forms of the garment. Trousers with a single silk or satin braid
covering the outer seams A black cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat
A white dress shirt, French cuffs and cufflinks, and a turndown or winged standing collar
A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings Shirt studs and cufflinks. Less formally,
a fly-front or button down shirt may be substituted. Black dress stockings, usually of silk or
fine wool Black shoes—traditionally patent leather
court shoes; now often highly polished or patent leather Oxfords instead.
Jacket The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted,
and black or midnight blue; usually of wool or a wool–mohair, or wool-polyester blend,
although other materials, especially silk, are seen. Double breasted models are less
common, but considered equally appropriate. Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before
World War I, but today come ventless, with side vents, or with center vents. The ventless
style is considered more formal. The lapels are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain
or a satin weave. Emily Post, a resident of Tuxedo Park, New
York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl-shaped, in either case
they are to have facings of silk, satin or grosgrain." She later republished this statement
in her 1922 book Etiquette, adding that only single-breasted jackets are appropriately
called tuxedos. There is a fashion movement suggesting that a man's appearance when wearing
the wider and higher peak lapel is superior to the narrower notch lapel.
White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are ivory in color rather than
pure white, and have self-faced lapels rather than silk-faced lapels. They are generally
worn with the same types of shirts and accessories as black dinner jackets, though the turndown
collar and cummerbund preferred to the wing collar or waistcoat. Similarly, the shawl
lapel is more common in white dinner jackets. In the United Kingdom, the 20th-century etiquette
was that white dinner jackets are never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but are
reserved for wear abroad. Today, white dinner jackets are frequently seen at weddings, formal
beach events, and high-school proms, in the United States and at some concerts in the
United Kingdom. In tropical climates, such as in Imperial Burma, desert fawn was historically
used as the less formal color. At one time, the mess jacket was also an option in warmer
climates. It is generally considered inappropriate for
a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity
dictate, the ranking man may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated
hot weather, Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric
in civilian circles, and is particular to certain expatriate communities.
Trousers Black tie trousers traditionally have no cuffs
or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single braid of silk or a
material that matches the lapel facing. Traditionally, braces, hidden by the waistcoat, were used
to support the pants but belts are often worn today in less formal settings. Evening trousers
can be flat-fronted or pleated today; pleats first coming into fashion in the 1930s.
Waistcoat or cummerbund A waistcoat or cummerbund should be worn when
wearing a single-breasted coat. However, according to Debretts, "cummerbands or low cut black
evening waistcoats are rarely worn nowadays". Waistcoasts come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape,
in backless or fully backed versions, double or single breasted, with or without lapels.
Single breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double breasted ones three or
four rows. Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would
wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such
as stiff fronted shirts. However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation,
is still acceptable in the United States. The cummerbund, derived from military dress
uniform in British India, is worn with its pleats facing up, and is normally of the same
cloth as the bow tie and lapels though strictly, the cummerbund, bow tie and lapels should
be of different material. Maroon, a color commonly worn to accompany black tie, is often
used for the cummerbund in less formal or summer situations. A cummerbund is never worn
with a double breasted jacket, and a waistcoat now very rarely. Since this style of jacket
is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need
to be covered, though before World War II an edge of waistcoat was often shown between
the jacket and shirt. Recently, and particularly in the United States,
it has become more common for men to remove their jackets at less formal events such as
weddings and proms. Because of this, full-back waistcoats have become more common; unlike
the traditional waistcoat, these are often high, single breasted, and with the full five
or six buttons of a daytime waistcoat. Shirt
Shirts designed to be worn with black tie are called "formal shirts," or "tuxedo shirts"
in American English and "dress shirts" in British English. The shirt is conventionally
white or off-white cotton or linen with a bibbed front that is either marcella or pleated.
In the early 20th century, a stiff front such as is worn with white tie was sometimes used
and in the 1960s and 1970s ruffled bibs were popular, but neither style is often seen today.
Indeed, a trend in the 2000s has been to dispense with the bib front altogether. Shirts worn
with black-tie have double cuffs. In the late 19th century and through the 1920s, stiff
shirts with winged detachable collars were common. Thereafter, collars for formal shirts
were typically attached with either the standard fold-over collar, or the "winged" version
of the standing collar. The original and most formal version of the
dress shirt fastens with matching shirt studs. Dress shirts with a fly-front placket are
also traditional. However, lately it has become quite common to allow buttons to show, although
this is less formal. Studs and links are most commonly in silver or gold settings, featuring
onyx or mother-of-pearl; various geometrical shapes are worn, e.g., circles, octagons,
or rectangles. There has been no consistent fashion preference for gold or silver, but
mother-of-pearl is more formal and therefore often associated with white tie.
Footwear The most formal and traditional shoes are
patent leather opera pumps decorated with grosgrain bows. The more popular alternative
currently is the black lace-up Oxford shoe, in patent leather or calfskin, with a rounded
plain toe. Matte finish pumps are also seen. Shoes are almost invariably black and patent
leather is considered more formal than matte finishes while pumps are considered more formal
than lace-ups. Generally considered too informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing,
such as the Derby shoe. Notable alternatives include the black button boot and the monogrammed
Albert slipper which was originally worn only at home. The black Gucci loafer in leather
is also considered as an alternative, especially in urban British settings. Hosiery is black
socks made from fine wool or silk.
Accessories Most etiquette and fashion guides of the current
decade recommend keeping color touches and favoring a single color, usually dark; muted
reds, such as maroon, are a traditional choice. Handkerchief: A handkerchief in linen, silk,
or cotton is usually worn in the breast pocket. Boutonnière: A flower may be worn. Red and
white carnation, blue cornflower, and rosebud have all been popular at times. In France,
the boutonnière is usually a gardenia, and boutonnières and handkerchiefs are not worn
simultaneously. Outerwear: Black-tie events do not involve
outerwear and coats and gloves are no longer considered part of the dress code. However,
etiquette for what to wear in public in transit to and from black tie occasions was stiffer
in earlier eras and remain an option: Matching overcoats are usually black, charcoal, or
dark blue, and traditionally of the Chesterfield style. A guard's coat was also once popular,
and a lighter topcoat can be worn in summer. Historically, an Inverness coat was also worn.
Until the mid-20th century, gloves and scarves were always worn, and are still occasionally
seen in gray leather and white silk, respectively. White kid gloves have never been standard
with black tie, remaining exclusive to white tie dress.
Hat: The 20th-century standard hat for black tie was a black Homburg in winter, or straw
boater in spring and summer. Fedoras were originally regarded as too informal but have
become more common recently. Top hats were originally worn with black-tie, but had been
reserved to white tie and morning dress from World War I. Black-tie dress does not require
a hat today. Timepiece: Traditionally visible timepieces
are not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping is not supposed to be considered
a priority. Pocket watches are acceptable. Decorations and orders: Military, civil, and
organizational decorations are usually worn only to full dress events, generally of formal
governmental or diplomatic significance. Miniature orders and awards are typically worn on the
left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according
to country-specific or organizational regulations. Unlike in white tie, where decorations are
always permitted, the dress code will usually give some indication when decorations are
to be worn with black tie.
Black-tie social occasions Black tie is worn to private and public dinners,
dances, and parties. At the more formal end of the social spectrum, it has to a large
extent replaced the more formal white tie. The black tie code is sometimes classified
as "semi-formal" in contrast to the "formal" white tie, or as "formal" in contrast to the
"most formal" of white tie. Once more common, white tie dress code is now fairly rare, being
reserved for only extremely formal occasions. Black tie is traditionally worn only after
six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months. Black tie's rough daytime
equivalent is the stroller, which is less formal than morning dress because it replaces
the tailcoat with a lounge coat. Curiously, in opposition to the trend seen in evening
dress, the less formal stroller is now extraordinarily rare, whereas morning dress is still relatively
common. Opera
Traditionally black tie should be worn to the opera although a dark lounge suit is also
now acceptable. In the 21st century, many opera houses in the English-speaking world
do not stipulate black tie. For example neither the Royal Opera House nor the Sydney Opera
House have a black tie dress code. English country house opera, such as at Glyndebourne,
is more likely to require black tie. Black tie should also be worn at an ballet
or orchestra gala. Cruise ships
Most cruise ships no longer have a white tie requirement, but rather require black tie
or equivalent for formal evening dinner nights. Black tie at weddings
In the last few decades, black tie has been increasingly seen in the United States at
formal day wedding in place of the traditional Morning dress. However, etiquette and clothing
experts continue to condemn the wearing of black tie before 6 pm. Prior to the late 1930s,
black tie was even discouraged as too informal for evening weddings, with Amy Vanderbilt
arguing that "no man should ever be caught in a church in a tuxedo." Indeed Emily Post
would continue to argue in preference of white tie at evening weddings into the 1950s.
In England and Wales, black tie is seldom worn at Church weddings or civil ceremonies
as morning dress or a lounge suit is normally favoured. However, in recent years black tie
is sometimes worn at evening receptions. At Jewish weddings, however, black tie is often
stipulated. In Scotland, a dinner jacket is also not common but highland dress is often
chosen. Corresponding forms of dress
Mess dress
For formal dining, uniformed services officers and non-commissioned officers often wear mess
dress equivalents to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Mess uniforms may vary
according to the wearers' respective branches of the armed services, regiments, or corps,
but usually include a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white
shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten
around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats.
Red Sea Rig
In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, Red Sea rig is
sometimes worn, in which the jacket and waistcoat are omitted and a red cummerbund and trousers
with red piping are worn instead. Scottish Highland dress
Scottish Highland dress is often worn to black- and white-tie occasions, especially at Scottish
reels and cèilidhean; the black-tie version is more common, even at white-tie occasions.
Traditionally, black-tie Scots Highland dress comprises:
Black barathea jacket with silver buttons—Regulation Doublet, Prince Charlie, Brian Boru, Braemar,
Argyll, and black mess jackets are suitable. There is some contention about whether the
Duke of Montrose and Sheriffmuir doublets are too formal for black-tie occasions.
Miniature medals Matching or tartan waistcoat
Kilt White shirt with shirt studs, French or barrel
cuffs, and a turn-down collar Black bow tie or white lace jabot
Evening dress brogues Full-dress kilt hose
Silk flashes or garter ties Dress sporran with silver chain
Black, silver-mounted sgian dubh Dirk
Highland bonnet with crest badge Traditional black-tie Lowland dress is a variant
of the normal black tie that includes tartan trews rather than the usual trousers and may
include a suitable kilt jacket instead of the dinner jacket. Trews are often worn in
summer and warm climes. See also
Fashion portal References
Further reading Apparel Arts magazine, an account of 1930s
fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with
comment at The London Lounge: Vol II. No. II and Vol I. No. III
Flusser, Alan. Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion. New York: HarperCollins.
ISBN 0-06-019144-9. The
Emily Post Institute provides a breakdown of traditional categories of progressing formality
in dress for men & women. External links
Media related to Black tie at Wikimedia Commons