Welcome to the Gentleman's Gazette!
Today's video is about black tie, more specifically, black bow ties.
I discuss the different kinds, the different weaves, the different shapes and which one
is right for you.
First, let's start with the most popular of all black bow ties, The so called SATIN bow
tie.
Satin is the most popular material of the bow ties because it's most often used for
the facing of the lapel as you can see here.
Traditionally, you would match the material of the bow tie with the lapel facings.
Satin is particularly popular for evening wear because it has this really nice luster
that lets it sparkle and shine which is exactly what you want for an evening black tie outfit.
Of course, just like with anything in life, there are different qualities, there is a
warp satin, a weft satin and you can weave satin out of silk, silk blends or polyester.
It goes without saying that the best satins are made of a 100% silk and they're made in
a warp weave.
If you want to learn more about the different satin weaves, check out our guide.
At Fort Belvedere, we only use 100% silk and we use a really nice Italian silk, it's one
of the most expensive in the world because it gets this beautiful luster as you can see
here.
Most bow ties you will buy will have an adjuster, that's because it's a one size fits all and
easier for dealers to stock however, that's not what looks best on you.
Adjustable bow ties always have metal clasps and if you wear a detachable collar like here,
you can see that.
Also, at the end of an evening, traditionally, men who know how to wear their bow tie untie
it and they dangle around their neck.
Sometimes they'll also take it off and then you can see if somebody has an adjustable
bow tie or a bow tie that is fixed in length.
Of course the length of the bow tie has to be matched to your neck size and at Fort Belvedere
we carry all of our black bow ties in a fixed neck size so you look your best.
Bow ties come in different shapes therefore, we have the black satin bow tie in a traditional
butterfly shape as you can see here.
We have it with pointed ends for a more and usual look and we have it in a smaller shape
as a single end bow tie, If you simply prefer a smaller bow tie or if you are a shorter
guy.
The first bow tie you should have is the butterfly bow tie because it's one of the most classic
models and flatters 98% of all men.
Most bow ties come with two ends and you tie them and you see them and they're basically
somewhat symmetrical.
In the 1920s and 30s, particularly dapper men wanted to have a thinner layer of fabric
and they cam up with the idea of a single end bow tie.
The idea is that you just have one layer of fabric thus making it thinner and more elegant.
You can see what it looks like, here.
Single end bow tie is particularly nice for detachable collars and just gives you a very
different look from all the other men out there.
Maybe it's your first bow tie, get a traditional butterfly bow tie with two ends but as your
next black bow tie, just get something different and either in different fabric, a different
size or shape or go with the single end.
You can find the classic butterfly shape here, the pointed ends here and the single end bow
ties here.
The next fabric is the so called Barathea fabric.
Unlike satin, barathea is a little more matte and it's very popular in England.
So if you don't like shiny silks, barathea is the way to go for you.
Also if your lapels is made of a material that is not very shiny, a barathea is maybe
preferable.
The other very popular material for black bow ties is Faille, also known as grosgrain.
Technically, they're different weaves but people use them interchangeably and so do
we.
I'm wearing a faille grosgrain bow tie, as you can see, it matches my lapels.
Grosgrain is a type of poplin fabric and it has a ripped structure which is just very
different than satin and much more rare therefore, if you want to be more extraordinary and want
to mix up your black tie game, a grosgrain bow tie is a great investment.
Not all grosgrains are alike that's why we have two kinds.
We have a wide rib, as you can see here and a slimmer rib as you can see here.
The wide rib is much more of a statement and it's really good if you, for example have
a satin lapel and you want to mix it up and have a visibly different texture.
The smaller grosgrain rib is finer and better suited if it matches your lapels.
Another popular fabric is called moire.
Moire has the effect of watered silk but in fact, it doesn't have anything to do with
water.
It's simply a grosgrain weave, black fabric that is rolled with pressure in between two
layers which creates this marvelous watered silk effect.
We offer this bow tie as a single end bow tie in our shop.
Another option is the so called shantung silk.
Shantung silk is also known as peony silk or raw silk and it is characteristic because
of its knobs.
Natural silk comes in filaments that are very thin and are of different thicknesses and
when they're put together and twisted, you get a more regular yarn.
Now, shantung silk is made intentionally irregular so you will see thicker knobs and thinner
fabrics right next to each other creating a more casual, relaxed texture that goes well
with dinner jackets and anything that is not super formal.
Black grenadine is very unusual for black bow ties but it has a stronger texture and
it's also a more casual option and favorited by younger people who want to make a strong
fashion statement.
Another very traditional shape for bow ties is the so called batswing bow tie and it's
characterized by its straight shape.
The Batswing bow tie is very easy for manufacturers to produce because you can simply take a rectangular
piece of fabric and make it into a bow tie.
The ends are oftentimes slightly curved because they're pulled in and it's not just a very
sophisticated look in my book.
For that reason, we do not offer this kind of bow tie shape but it must be mentioned
because it is a classic shape.
To sum it up, when it's your first bow tie, chances are, you want to have a satin silk
bow tie, go with the butterfly if you don't have anything else however, if you're past
that stage, you may want to mix up your black tie outfits especially if you're on a cruise
or if you go on a black tie event every month.
It's really much easier and less expensive to exchange your bow ties than to exchange
your tuxedo or your shirts or studs or cuff links.
Of course you can also mix it up with your pocket square or your boutonniere but having
a range of black bow ties always very nice because people will always think you have
a different outfit especially if you switch between a diamond pointed tie and a regular
tie and all you've done is just the bow tie.
Now, you can check out all of these bow ties in our store.
I hope you have a better understanding of what goes well and if you have any other questions,
let us know.
If you now wonder how to tie your bow ties, check out this video here.
For an advanced tutorial on how to tie your bow tie including single end bow ties, please
check out this video.
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