As with all 18th century womens' dress, the chemise was the garment worn next to the skin
It was made from linen, was washable and was
changed as frequently as possible The stockings came over the knee, and had
embroidery at the ankle known as 'clocks'. The stockings were held in place by ribbon
garters, either above the knee or, more usually, below - especially when active.
No under drawers were worn. The rigid boned stays created the silhouette
of the period. They were reinforced at the centre front with a removable wooden 'busk', which
was often carved with entwined lovers' initials and dates.
The stays raised the bosom, gave the illusion of a narrow waist, and provided a smooth line
for the garments worn over it. They laced up at the back with a single lace.
When travelling, supporting items - such as hip-pads, bum-rolls, hooped petticoats or
panniers - were minimised, or not worn at all.
A washable white linen under-petticoat completed the under-linens.
Pockets were an important means of carrying small personal items. They tied about the
waist close to the body and out of sight, and were accessed through openings in the petticoats.
A Marseilles cloth petticoat provided warmth
and support for the outer petticoat. Marseilles cloth was a new machine-woven textile which
mimicked hand-quilting. It was warm and perfect for travelling in a chilly carriage.
The habit-shirt, resembled the gentleman's shirt, but was shorter and tied about the
waist with tapes. There were several slightly different styles,
some where completely open at the front, and other went on over the head. The cuffs were
fastened with Dorset thread buttons. The silk outer-petticoat was lined with linen
and closed at the back with tapes. It had slits at the sides to access the pockets,
and was made from the same fabric as the jacket. The habit-shirt was often closed at the throat
with a ribbon. The fore-sleeves of the travelling jacket
were separate, and were put on first. Once on the arm, they were quite secure,
though they could be pinned or buttoned to the upper sleeve.
The travelling, or German habit was an elegant, out-of-doors garment.
It was a hip-length jacket which buttoned up to the neck. It had long, two-part sleeves
with a flounce at the elbow and had a hood. It often, but not always had a sack-back with
box pleats. It could either have a false-front or a separate waistcoat. The hooded travelling
habit had been popular in Germany and other European countries from the mid-century, and
it was popularised in England by the marriage of Princess Augusta to the Duke of Brunswick
in 1764. Princess Augusta's 'going away' dress was a scarlet silk travelling outfit of the
German fashion, which became known as the 'Brunswick'.