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Rear shock replacement.
Now this one's from riding with the reeds, what is the best bike lock
Preferably cable I watched the lock picking lawyers channel. Any he makes it seem like there's no such thing as a good look
That's a really hard question
what is the best lock we're certainly not cable lock because cable locks are gonna be the
Easiest locks to to break out of all the locks on the market of question get chain locks
You can get D locks and you lock so that sort of stuff
It is hard to say because locks
Technically they can all be broken. It's just how much time it takes to break them
So they're a deterrent so really you want to get the best look that you can
To make it as hard as possible for a thief or would-be attacker to take your bike
The idea is you make your bike look a lot harder to steal than the one next to it basically on the street personally
I wouldn't really recommend a cable lock for anything other than being an additional deterrent lock to take with you
Personally the lock I use is a hip lock gold. So the locks are sold in bronze silver and gold rated secure settings
So, you know, you know, you're getting a maximum security with the gold on there. It's very heavy
I think they're about two and a half kilos or worth seven over two kilos
Extremely heavy bill the whole point with hip locks if you wear them around your waist
And it doesn't involve having to actually close the lock mechanism. They've got a really cool buckle on them that clips shut
Very fast and effective to use and because it Clips around your waist. You don't feel that weight when you're riding your bike
They've also got like a sheath on the outside of them that's reflective. So it doesn't mean they're safe in traffic as well
They're really good and then there's au locks and D locks which again a fantastic if you can fit them to your bike
where you have a bag suitable, but otherwise, it's a bit bit hard to carry it around the
One point of advice I would say is don't leave your lock where your lock in your bike up unless you know
It's a safe place where no one's going to not basically do anything to it
We've heard horror stories about locks being tampered with when the owners have not been able to buy it
I have a tallboy 2. i recently broke the push rod on my rear fox float ctd. What wold you recommend as a replacement.
So when they're next go to lock their bike up is easier for the thief to gain access to it
So just bear that one the mind if you're leaving out in public also
If you're likely to leave your lock outside for extended periods of time, you can suffer problems with corrosion
So if you do insist on doing that
Make sure you spray the some wd-40 or any sort of
Oily water displace it in the lock mechanism just to make sure it stays working smoothly and continues doing so
thanks Andrew cape town
but um
Check out a lock always get the best one you can and make sure you lock your bike up in obvious places
You don't know lock it up around the corner an alleyway where the thief or the attacker or whatever?
Has certain time to work on the bike you want to make it is
Obvious as possible right outside a cafe where lots of people are looking basically where the bike is locked
On the other side of some railings basically anywhere
there's a little bit tricky for them to Nick the bike is your best bet and
If possible, ideally try not to lock your bike up in public as much as you can
It's the only really safe way to go about stuff and 40 of these days
Next one's from the Grim Reaper. I hope he's not knocking already. I'm not loud
What was the first part you broke on any bike?
Did you get hurt was it under warranty did different color bikes make any difference to your mood and riding?
Do you prefer a certain color? Have you ever had a bike stolen? Let's go backwards have ever had a boy store
Thankfully not to bait, but I've really don't curse anything because I'd be absolute
And to be fair, I'll be really pissed off and I'll make it my mission to find that person and really hurt them
Next one. Do you prefer a certain color know a few phrases?
If I've got a bike, this ain't all black. I will love it and stuff
But I find that the next bike choice
I would want something the opposite
And vice versa if I've got white it's really bright or quite like the IDF go for something quite subtle words
But their next point round and honestly don't I really don't like a lot of colors
So and the different colour bikes make any difference to your mood or your riding
Absolutely none to me
But I'm sure it's definitely a factor for some people
some people the colour their biases AB see everything to them and a lot to ask a few people that in fact
Anyone out there if you ride an all-black bike like the murder that stealthy. Look does it make you feel metal
Does it make you feel really cool last night and like I say if you've got a really colorful bike?
Does that make you feel really happy and playful does the color of your bike have any effect on your mood?
No, that's no down there
Yeah, cool. And the next one. What was the first part you broke on any bike? Did you get hurt wasn't under warranty?
Bearing in mind I've been riding out to us for quite a long time
the first part I used to break was specifically left hand cranks and rear wheels basically and that was for
Probably a bit naivety on the way. I used to ride a bike
But also the fact that the kids wasn't up to spec
so left hand cranks were always a problem because the cranks would be made of soft aluminium and
Axles will be square taper made of a chromoly steel axle
And if they got bashed ER you felt the bike the simple bolts that would hold them on in place there
would sometimes come a little bit loose neighboring the crank to have a minor amount of movement and it would be enough for you to
Notice on that ride and as the ride went on basically you would basically moving the crank against that taper and that tape was slowly
Rounding out the inside of the crank and by the end of the ride
You got crank miss or loose and sooner or later?
It would flip all the way around or basically it would be so bent and useless. It would never tighten up properly
So Frodo alone have been Barsky go down recycle
I get a new crank on and for years the square taper thing was a problem in mountain biking
I know there'll be a lot of you out there that will know about this from riding square tapers. Thank God
Those years are over 30 and the rear wheel thing. Basically we were running rims made out of soft aluminium
they were too thin and they just weren't up to spec and we were also riding in an era where you had to run your
Tires a lot firmer to stop getting punctures all the time
I mean Ronnie Hart House
Tried to jump when we couldn't basically so the rear wheel was the first thing that just got all your be
So years have buckled wheels and broken spokes and all that sort of stuff
And then I guess have read the radio quite common from crashing back in the day
As years went on the things I broke got bit more exciting like suspension forks and down tubes and frames crowns on forks
stuff like that, but
Everyone goes through a phase of breaking specific things. And yeah, my memory of growing up was left hand cranks and rear wheels bit bored
Yeah
Next one's from a beachy. Oh - I'm thinking of designing a mount of my frame for a college project
How do I get the threads into the bottom bracket? Is there a tool for making threads in frames?
What does this need to be considered when designing the frame?
Well get a tall basically
I'm gonna throw a picture of one on the screen park maintenance
Companies make them for basically chasing those threads through on a frame
So the best thing for you to do would be basically to invest in a part of my clock one of these
BB units, this is a blank that yuji's is an Enzo on a carbon frame
But you can get various different us out there and I have fairly coarse threads
Cut into them already for you to use and then later when the bike is built
You would have to sort of face those surfaces to make sure they're completely square or flush and you would use
basically a BB tool to basically
Recut those threads to make sure the threads are fully
Accurate because the machines to do that aren't necessarily the most accurate in the first place
That's quite advanced stuff as far as bicep stuff goes but it doesn't make me laugh because we used to I remember having to build
Up frames used to buy frames and do your own custom builds. You have to face everything on them
So if you have to face the head tubes before you put a headset in which you don't really have to do anymore you have
To face the BB shell and you just have to chase all the threads for you to make sure they're good we have to remount
See tubes on bikes when CJ the suit post was a little bit tight. You just don't really have to get that anymore. I
think that's quite interesting because frame
Manufacturing has got a lot better and that's part of the process of a delivered product
You get something is literally ready to grease out the threads and screw bottom bracket in
So there you go. There's a tool for everything but you wouldn't necessarily need them. There's gonna be stuff open to you to use
Ok, another quick one from a quarantine Park. Hey, Donnie. I've got some play in my coil Fork
So when I pull the front brake the bike can move forwards and backwards it
Can I fix it or is it just my cheap fork? The tanks will be abuse actually help and enough videos
My cartoon is I think it's probably a fork
Basically, the cheaper the forks these all the bigger. The tolerances are when they're manufacturing them
Which means it's easier to manufacture in the amount that they need to get them onto bikes
Basically the more expensive the forks get expensive the components get the tourist has become very tight and everything becomes works a
Little bit better, so you're gonna have to have some movement in basically
You have the upper leg the lower leg which obviously slides over each other and then you have bushes that basically support that
Enable them to have nice
Surface fun to slide against now the gap between bushes and your upper legs is just gonna be slightly bigger
We're talking a minut amount here still then it will be on the higher quality folks
But that explains the wobble over time that can increase and you might need to get the bushes replaced
Hopefully your fork is good enough that you can replace the bushes
If not, when they are worn out, then it might be time for a new fork unfortunately, but don't worry about it
It's just part of the suspension fork. Even the best Forks have some amount of movement in them
Okay, next question from Tom Luscombe currently sifting through all the debates about coiled versus air
They all bang on about the suppleness and all the techie stuff
Which I don't care about what I want to know is what's the most robust?
And a heavy rider and air sharks have always worried me when bottoming out
When a coil will be more robust than air with the coil be less prone to damage and what are the issues?
What the issues when?
versus coil shocks bottom out
Okay. Yeah fair enough so you obviously know then coils
Ultimately have the most supple response because they were trying to override anything is just what it is
Whereas air Springs have to override the negative charge space heater for it to start working really well
Which is why you see bigger air Springs bigger negative air Springs that is on
Modern suspension forks and shocks and that's what I feel very supple when they work
Now get out your head
The bottoming out is a problem is not they're designed to bottom out when they reach the end of travel
You will not damage them really that is what they're designed to do
At the same time though coils definitely are a bit more robust
However, there are problems if you had both a heavy Rider and you're heavy on your bike now, for example
like a recent event
He couldn't actually get a course spring heavy enough for the way
He wanted to right now brakes aren't especially heavy person
But he likes his bikes like so firm for jumping and being really aggressive on them
He doesn't want it to wall around too much
he wants it to feel more like a dirty jump like a guess but in a
Format of a bike that can handle what he's doing
You can actually get a cool spring to suit
So I ended up putting his Fox float x2 back on the bike and it's absolutely fine. It's full of volume spaces
So it ramps up even more towards the end of the travel and he's running it. I think merely at the max
So that is actually fine
but it does accentuate a problem that there there's a limit to the weight of a course bring on the rear and a limit to
The way of a course bring on a fork that you can get to suit different fields
Whereas s brings there are almost infinite up to a certain point right away, but they do all have an upper limit
But I certainly wouldn't be concerned about it. If I was you. I think it's fine and unless you're like exceptionally large
It's generally not that much of an issue
all
manufacturers spec a max guideline on how much air their Forks and shops can take and
Even if you're running it at the max it will work fine
You just have to make sure you dial in more compression and more rebound to control it
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