Hey guys welcome back.
So now that the car is clean, in our previous Matt washed it and got it ready for us.
So now we want to go over some of the imperfections in the paint.
The car is not new but it is new to the owner and we want to make sure it looks great for him.
A few things we saw were water spots, scratches, swirls and paint transfer.
So we want to go over how you do the inspection process so Alex and I are going to walk over
the car and show you what we found and show you what products we'll use to correct that.
So when starting off an inspection you generally want to start off on the drivers side because
this is the area the driver sees the most.
We'll start off with this fender and this hood area.
Right off the bat I can see this car does have touch up paint.
This car has been touched up before from possibly a rock hitting it.
It has been repaired but we can always polish around it but it is something to be aware
of when you're trying to get rid of scratches and swirls around it.
Another thing that we noticed is what looks like a scratch but it is actually paint transfer.
It looks like it may be from a plastic handle of some sort.
It looks like it is just paint transfer and not a scratch which means a little bit of
that plastic has embedded into the fender so we're going to polish that out.
From the rest of the vehicle there's just little water spots here and there.
Back to the paint transfer.
So paint transfer could either be paint or rubber .
So maybe if you park in an area with hopping carts that have the rubber stoppers that could
be what hit it.
We don't know quite yet we think by polishing it out we can take care of it but you never know.
Maybe when we clay bar the car it'll take it out for us and then we only have to polish
it for the scratches.
Another thing we saw is the water spots.
There are scratches and swirls in the paint.
We don't know if it has been repainted by the looks of it the hood may have been.
Mainly the water spots are really heavy on the hood and the trunk.
We're going to work on the drivers side and also get the areas that you see the most.
Most of the time on the side panels you don't see much of the water spots.
It's mostly on the flat panels where water lands and dries.
So we're going to go around and clay bar first and then we'll look at what we're going to
use first to polish.
So for the clay bar part of this Porsche detail we are going to use our OG Clay Bar.
We went with something in the mid range of abrasiveness because we don't need anything
too aggressive and too light won't get out the contamination.
So we're going to start off with our Original Clay Bar and the Clay Luber.
If you do drop the clay bar or if you see the contaminants inside you do need to throw
it out.
In order to use the clay bar you can cut it up into three pieces.
Sometimes people do two sections but it is too big of a piece and you'll waste more of
the clay bar if you have to throw it away.
There's often times when you cut a clay bar in half and you start to clay then drop that
half you just lost half of the clay bar because you have to throw it away.
It is always good to cut it in one thirds or if you can in fourths.
There are other alternatives to using the clay bar.
We do have a clay block, the clay mitt and the clay disk.
The reason we didn't choose any of those was because this car has a lot of contamination
and we want to make sure to use a regular clay bar.
Maybe in the future we'll use something different.
We don't know when was the last time this vehicle had a clay bar treatment done so we're
just going to start off fresh and start from scratch with a clay bar treatment to make
sure this car is as clean as can be.
One thing to remember when claying the car is that the surface is lubricated.
You don't want any dry surface when you're claying.
You can continue to spray Clay Luber as you are claying.
You can scratch or mar the paint if you use the clay bar without lubrication.
Sometimes customers ask when do you know where to stop claying or what directions you have
to go in.
As long as you're going in same stroke directions whether it be horizontally or vertically it's
okay.
Also you'll start to feel when the clay bar starts to glide easier and that's how you
know you've removed a lot of contamination.
It's going to get really slick and you'll feel it pulling off a lot of contaminants.
I like doing short strokes in the same direction.
I'm not doing any circular motions so that way in case I pick up any contamination I
won't create swirls.
Another frequent question is do you have to wash your car again after a clay bar service?
You don't have to, just grab a microfiber and wipe off the lubricant from the surface.
A lot of people think they have to wash their vehicle afterwards but you don't have to.
Another question we do get on clay bars in general is people think our clay bars have
an abrasive in them and they're worried about using it on the paint.
These don't have any abrasives in them that could harm your paint.
So here where the paint transfer is it may come off with a clay bar and in that case
it would be great because then we won't have to go into polishing to remove that part.
We are still going to polish to remove the scratches and swirls or the transfer it has
on it.
The transfer is too deep for the clay bar to take off so we're going to have to get
it off with a compound and polish it out.
So now we're done claying the car so we're going to move on to polishing.
As you saw we were unable to remove the paint transfer or rubber transfer whatever it is,
with a clay bar.
So we're going to move forward and start polishing.
Alex let us know what products you think we should use today.
Since we are working on a Porsche and we have a suspicion that the hood has been painted
we're going to use our Heavy Polishing Pad.
A Heavy Polishing Pad in combination with our V36 is a good one step paint correction.
Since Porsche paint is typically soft and since it has been repainted in certain areas
we don't want to get anything too abrasive so a lighter polish and pad are good enough
to take the scratches and swirls from the surfaces in one pass.
With the V-Line the lower the number the more abrasive it is.
So V32 would be more abrasive than V36.
We have experience with Porsche paint.
Our students did a Porsche in one of our classes and they had to go through a lot of different
passes and trial and error to find the right pads for it.
We know that the paint is pretty soft.
That's why we're using the Green Pad and if we see anything that suggests we should change
our combination we will show you guys.
We're going to start with the paint transfer on the fender and then we're going to work
our way around to the hood and the back.
You wan't to make sure that the pad is lubricated with Pad Conditioner as you're polishing.
So with just one pass with our V36 and our Green Pad we were able to remove the paint transfer.
We're going to keep moving forward with the polish.
The paint transfer is gone and from what I can tell the swirls around it are also gone.
You killed two birds with one stone with just one pass.
It just goes to show you how soft this paint is and how effective this combination is.
So knowing the combination of pad and chemical is the right choice we're going to keep moving
and remove the rest of the scratches, swirls, water spots, oxidation and bring this blue back.
So we finished polishing the Boxster and it is looking great.
The combination of products we chose the Green Pad and the V36 with our TORQ machine did
very well.
The oxidation, swirls, scratches, water spots and paint transfer is all gone and the blue
is looking amazing.
If you want to learn about the products we used go to ChemicalGuys.com.
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Tune in for our next video where we do the final touches on the Boxster to make it look
great before the owner picks it up.
See you next time.