Style Secrets Only EXPERTS Know [0:00:00]
So, you’re a style expert, but do you know the six jacket shoulder types?
First up, we’ve got the structured shoulder also known as the English shoulder.
Key characteristics of this shoulder type, it’s going to be large padding with significant
canvassing.
It’s also going to be interlined with horsetail and reinforced with chest belt and tapes.
The shoulder line is extended and roped.
It is a very strong authoritative feel to it.
Now, contrast that with an unstructured shoulder also known as the Italian shoulder.
Here, the jacket shoulders should fit like a shirt.
This is constructed to drape naturally over the shoulders and not all through a man’s
shoulder line.
The fit, the drape, the feel, the small armhole, it’s all meant to give you freedom of movement.
The shoulder is perfect for lightweight fabrics in a Mediterranean environment.
Now, following right in between this, we’ve got the Continental shoulder also known as
the updated American look.
Now, this shoulder type is one of the most popular ones you’re going to see out there.
You’re going to see it on Tom Ford, you’re going to see on Zania, you’re going to see
Hugo Boss using this particular style.
It works for a wide range of body types, hence why it’s so popular.
Now, notice when you look at it, it’s got a bit of padding a bit of structure following
right between the structured English and the unstructured Italian.
Now, some of you guys may have heard of the natural shoulder.
This was made popular by Brooks Brothers, but what’s interesting about this one is
it does have a bit of padding in it, but it does have a hang.
Basically, this one is made for a loose sack suit fit.
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Next up, we’ve got the Neopolitan shoulder, pretty much the same as the Italian unstructured
shoulder except for a small detail.
This sleeve has been attached by hand and we can tell that because of the puckering
details up there at the top.
Basically, the sleeve is slightly larger than the armhole.
Next up, let’s talk about the Pagoda shoulder, very easy to spot.
Notice that roping, just like the roof of a pagoda, notice how it goes up on those points.
This is a very formal shoulder style that goes in and out of fashion, so you want to
be careful when you’re looking at a jacket that has this shoulder type.
So, did you get all six?
Guys, don’t worry about if you missed one or two.
In today’s video, I’ve got tons of small style details that make a big difference and
if you know this information, you are going to come off as a style expert.
Are you ready?
Let’s do it.
[Music] So, I’ve got this new perfume I absolutely
love.
It’s a beast.
This stuff is going to last like twelve hours.
It’s got just an amazing fragrance.
It’s called Zaharoff Signature.
It is a perfume.
And what does that mean?
When I say perfume, when I say toilette, when I say cologne, do you know the difference?
Let’s break it out.
So, let’s start off with perfume.
A lot of guys hear perfume, oh, that’s for women.
Not true.
Perfume is genderless and this is going to be one of the stronger fragrances out there,
so that’s a good thing.
And when we’re talking strength, we’re talking about this spray composition, what
percentage is the essence of the perfume.
The higher the percentage in general the stronger and the longer the fragrance is going to last
and this a good thing for most of you.
So, with perfumes we’re going to see anywhere from 15% to 30% of the solution being the
pure perfume essence.
Now, as we add more and more the solution and we put less to the essence in there, we
dilute the fragrance and now it becomes a toilette.
It’s going to fall about right in the middle with about a 5% to 15% pure perfume essence
dissolved in the alcohol.
So, what happens when the pure essence starts to drop a little 5%?
Well, we see colognes at about 2% to 4%.
They’re going to last on average a couple of hours.
And body sprays at about 1% or less, those can last sometimes maybe an hour, but even
less sometimes.
Now, hold up, gents, before I get to the next point, I want to let you know I’ve got a
free style dictionary, five hundred terms that every stylish man should know and it’s
yours absolutely free.
Guys, at the end of this video go check it out, I’ll link to it down in the description.
It’s got an audio component, a PDF component.
Guys, and it’s yours absolutely free.
Why did I create this?
Because I want to give you the tools the tools here at Real Men Real Style to arm yourself
to go out there and be the man you know yourself to be.
So, when you're listening to this, you're going to be able to pick up all this terminology
and you are going to come off as a style expert.
The next series of small style details to know to make you look like an expert is be
able to match three or more patterns.
Let me show you how to actually match four.
So, the cool thing is when you buy good quality clothing from a manufacturer that knows what
they're doing, they are actually when it comes to the families of shirts, ties, pocket squares,
jackets, they're going to stick to particular patterns and they're not going to venture
from this . So, when it comes to dots, guess what?
You're going to see this pretty much in neckties.
When it comes to the regimental stripe, you're going to see this pretty much in only neckties.
That's good because you don’t have to worry about the pattern popping up elsewhere.
And that's the key point when matching patterns.
You don't want to have the same size pattern or the same type pattern right next to each
other because it just gives an off-putting look, it can make actually movement up here.
It never looks good.
[0:05:02] Now, so we've got a stripe right here, well,
guess what?
Look at the proportions here compared to the proportions on the shirt.
So, I could actually wear this striped tie with this striped shirt no problem.
Now, you may be wondering on pocket squares.
Pocket squares what we're going to see is a lot of paisleys, we're going to see other
very complex patterns.
Occasionally, you will see this on a necktie, so that's where you want to be careful, but
in general they're pretty easy to match.
And, let's talk about with jackets.
Jackets, you're going to see in solids most of the time.
Yes, solids are a pattern, but you can't go with small repeating patterns.
So, look at this jacket right here you see the small details in this?
It's got actually black, dark blue, light blue, and just some nice colors with it.
This right here the small repeating pattern is going to work with everything you see right
here.
So, the next small style detail is understanding suit fabrics.
And you're going to see these numbers super 110s, super 120s.
What are they talking about and does any of this make sense?
Here is the dirty truth is that there isn't a set standard.
So, what they say over at VBC which is a great mill - I love this company - is not going
to be the same as what Lessona is doing.
All these companies, you know, Zania, they've each got their own numbering system.
Now, that numbering system according to them should actually a super 110 should be finer,
should be softer, should be actually more expensive, but does that mean it's better?
The answer is not necessarily.
I've touched fabrics that had a 90 and they were amazing and they were very good for workhorse
suits.
Suits that you're going to wear again and again, they looked great versus suits that
maybe had a 220, but wasn't really sure where did they get that 220 from and that was a
very delicate fabric, so that's another thing is how delicate does it become at those higher
numbers?
Think of it like megapixels.
People are sold cameras that have way more capabilities than they actually need and they
would be perfectly fine at maybe 10 megapixels, but they go spend two to three times as much
money getting a camera it has all these capabilities that they don't even use.
So, think about that with numbers.
Find out, okay, am I happy with this?
Do I touch it and does it feel good and that should be perfectly fine for you.
Don't fall into the numbers game and a super 130 with one company is not necessarily better
or worse than a super 110 with another.
Now, you may be wondering how does all that suit fabric jargon applied to shirt fabrics.
Now, shirt fabrics I think are a little bit easier to understand.
What you want to first look at is what's it made from.
So, is it going to be cotton?
But not only cotton, is it going to be super Pima?
Is it going to be Egyptian?
Is it going to be Sea Island?
Those are all great indicators of quality because this basically says we get down actually
to the fiber.
They use longer fibers to spin good long strong yarns that are going to enable really soft
fabrics.
Next up, gents, do you know your dress codes?
First, you've got formal which is white tie and I would say that 99.9 percent of you are
never going to wear this and congratulations if you're in that point .1 percent, go have
fun.
Next up, gents, we've got semi-formal.
Historically, this means black tie, but in modern usage I would say a lot of people think
it also means a suit.
So, if you ever get an invite to an event and it says semi-formal, you want to find
out do they mean black tie or do they mean a suit.
Oftentimes and I find in the United States they actually mean a dark-colored suit.
And speaking of a dark-colored suit, let's talk about business attire.
Business attire means a dark solid suit.
We're going to see navy, we're going to see charcoal gray, we're going to see medium gray,
and, again, we're not going with anything outlandish here.
You're going to go with a white shirt or a light blue shirt with a conservative necktie,
so I don't want anything without outlandish characters and, you know, novel neckties,
nothing like that.
Next up, gents, we've got business casual.
As you can see what I'm wearing right here is business casual.
It covers a wide range of different outfits, hence why it can be so confusing for a lot
of guys.
In general, I like to have a look that I feel good about and that I know sets a step above
what most people are going to be wearing.
So, I wear the jacket because most guys are not going to pull off a sports jacket.
This right here will set me apart.
And, notice I didn't wear the necktie, but on the inside part of this shirt here I've
got a little bit of color a little bit of style, I had fun with it.
So, you want to bring a little bit of attention to the neck I think a casual necktie with
this would have looked great or I could have brought in a formal dress shirt with a nice
necktie with this a little bit more casual jacket.
Now, the pattern in the jacket is what makes it casual.
Also, the bluish color, it's not going to be a super dark suit.
I'm also wearing this with jeans which you cannot see and then I've got my pocket square
here.
And now, we've got casual.
And casual is kind like the wild wild west when it comes to dress coats.
Anything goes, but it actually does it if you're a stylish guy and you want to come
off as an expert, so what you want to do is change it up.
Most guys are thinking t-shirts, cargo shorts, running shoes.
No, change it up.
Take it up another level.
Remember, casual does not mean sloppy, so you want to plan out your look.
I have nothing against shorts, but go with the pair without the cargo pocket that fits
you properly.
[0:09:51] Instead of going with the t-shirt, go with
a nice button-down, roll up those sleeves go with a little bit of collar still look
great.
Throw in some sunglasses instead of going with that baseball hat.
Maybe bring in a Panama or another functional hat.
Instead of going for the running shoes, maybe a pair of espadrilles, maybe bring in a pair
of boat shoes.
Guys, make sure to take your casual to the next level.
So this next style detail if you know it you're really going to come off as an expert and
that is understanding jacket construction types.
Two main types out there and I'm going to really oversimplify this.
But, we have floating canvases and we have fused jackets.
Now, you're going to find hybrids between them and many different people in many different
ways make many different types of floating canvases.
I'm going to link to more additional information about this in the description of today's video.
But, guys, if you start to understand this, you are going to be able to go out there and
really be able to tell the difference between a great quality jacket, a good quality jacket,
and, yeah, a jacket that you probably want to avoid.
And, let's talk about tie knots.
So, I think that every man should know how to tie at least five different tie knots.
Most of us are going to default to one.
I know I do the four-in-hand, but know how to tie the half Windsor.
And have some fun, go out there and learn how to tie the Trinity knot.
I know a lot of you guys are going to say no, but how do you know if you like something
if you've never tried it.
And have you ever tried the Eldridge knot?
Or maybe the Pratt knot.
Guys, a gentleman should know how to tie at least five necktie knots and I've got more
than that for you down in the description.
Now, this next style detail is imperative to understand if you want to reach expert
status, gents, and that is to know the style rules and know when to break them.
Because you want to understand why is that rule out there.
I put out tons of guidelines.
I do this because men just starting off, they're still overwhelmed with the amount of information
out there.
But, you don't have to stick to the rules.
When you understand the base of why this rule was created, who it applies to, the logic
that went into it, you could say, you know what?
I'm exempt from this, this doesn't apply to me.
You can start to break these rules and that's what I love to see a man confident and strong
enough in his own ability to make his own decisions.
And I want you to be able to leverage clothing as a tool to get what you want out of life.
Now, if you're going to call yourself an expert on men’s style, you need to know shoe details.
And guess what, guys?
I've got you covered in this video right here in which I go into shoe construction, I talk
about all the details that you need to understand between basically Blake stitch, between Goodyear
welt, and cemented shoes.
If you're going to call yourself, again, an expert when it comes to men's style, you've
got to know the difference between these three types of construction.
This video right here is going to get you ready and I'm linking to it, again, down in
the description.
And, gentlemen, don't forget down in the description of today's video, I've got that freestyle
dictionary for you, five hundred terms that every man needs to know.
I’ve got you covered.
It's got an audio, it’s got a PDF component, yours absolutely free.
And I've got tons of free gifts down there for you guys.
So, you want a free app, I've got you covered.
You want my podcast, I've got you covered.
You want premium courses, we've got them for you over at RealMenRealStyle.com.
Again, all that down in the description.
That’s it, gentlemen.
Take care.
I will see you in the next video.
[Music] [0:13:12] End of Audio