So in this video what I want to show you is what we call a cut in floor system
Which is similar at the start at least to our platform for system, which I did a video on earlier
so we'll be skipping through the first little part of this up to the joist is pretty quickly if you want to get back and
Have a look at that in more detail. Have a look at the platform floor
system video
So as you can see we've done our excavation
Next step will be to do our reinforcement
In our strip footing and no reinforcement in our blob footings
place our concrete
so our Dwarf wall and engage piers our isolated piers
Get our DPC put in, our damp proof course
and
our ant cap in place and then place our bearers as we did before and
now are the first real difference starts when we put our joists in
So you can see with our joists, we've still that double joist on our external walls
but I also have a double joist now on our internal wall and you might notice that they're spaced apart a little bit
and I'll put in the bottom plates and
We're gonna have a closer look and you can see
That when our double plates in we actually need to have this second bearer spaced apart a little bit
to give us an actual bearing for our flooring
and that distance there is generally about half the thickness of our
joist and
So that's for an external wall
You go around and have a look at our internal wall
You'll see it's spaced apart a little bit further
Generally the same thickness as our joist and that's so we get bearing for our flooring on both sides
Of an internal wall, and it won't matter whether that's a load bearing on non
Load-bearing wall it needs to be needs to have two joists, and they need to be spaced apart, so they they pick up
the the wall in that manner
Of course before we started doing this flooring we would have our walls in place
However, I'm not going to leave them in there just for a little bit of clarity. Just remember. We would normally have our wall stood
And possibly a roof on and our roof covering on
Before we started laying this flooring cut in flooring is generally used
Where you're gonna have fairly expensive flooring and it normally gets laid
towards the end of the job not very common nowadays, but um that's why it's done this way so it can be laid
towards the end of the job
So I've left the plate in
Generally what we do is if you had a long run in your house
So say this plate didn't go through here. So there was a hallway that ran all the way through here
I would start against this wall and
That way I could do the entire run in one length and get it nice and straight
there's nothing worse than starting here and working this way and starting here and working this way and
Because the the way you've cramped the floor up you actually end up with a little bit of a stagger in
The boards or they don't line up from this round of this room so I always start with your longest length
And then work your way back to your shortest length
Okay, but in this case of course this stops here all the way through. I'm just going to starting into this wall
I've put in a couple of spaces about 10mm
Just to give me some room for expansion and remember we need to keep 10mm on each wall
as we work our way around so the the
flooring can expand and contract without buckling or
Damaging, just remember We're still going to have 10mm of Gyprock to go on our wall, and yeah up to
20mm of skirting, so we've got a fair bit of coverage here up to 30mm
So 10mm expansion gaps not going to show up in any stage
So 10mm packers and cutting in your first board
So well I've done, this is a short board so cut it to length leading 10mm shy at each end
Then the offcut that I cut off this end I'll start back down here
And I'll cut it the length so it joins on this joist
You know if we have a look down. There are two different types of strip flooring
You can get tongue and groove strip flooring the plain old tongue and groove which is just
square on the ends or
What they call the end matched
Flooring where the the tongue and the groove is actually machined into the ends of the boards as well
Okay, so the advantage of this is that you can actually join this
and it doesn't have to be on a joist so when you install this stuff
You don't need to worry about landing on a joist you just join
anywhere you like and you don't have any waste whereas this one you have to cut it so it joins on a joist
Have a look at the other end of that and you can see it's got the groove machined
So the best method of installing that is the same
If this wasn't matched we'd cut
This cut here take the off cut put it in here wherever it ended so I ended about here
Just start a new length with the groove already in it
Now cut it the length bring the off cut down this end and we'll just keep going that way
Similar to this
the normal tongue of groove flooring, but we have to make sure it lands on a joist each time
So that one lands there you should also make sure that the shortest piece still spans
across three joists can't just go from there to there needs to go across. Three as a minimum
So you can go that piece there
Hopefully the offcut will be long enough when we start a new piece. This will still get us three here
That piece goes in and then we can putting it back to a full length
So you work start working your pattern, and I generally go about four board
and then I'll put in a packer or a
sacrificial piece of timber and then I can throw in my clamps or flooring clamps and we can clamp that up
These particular clamps you are just wind this handle back and forwards and this will ratchet down here pushes forward
There are lots of different systems and methods of clamping up the floor
the other thing is with your Packer
Jump back here with your Packer
Good idea to get a bit of old flooring or nominate a piece of flooring again a sacrifice
That's actually got the groove if you're clamping against the groove
And just keep that in place, so you don't actually damage the tongue when you're clamping against it
The other method is to just turn the board's around so you start with the tongue against the wall
But same thing you want to make sure you protect your groove or your tongue
So that was the next board that goes in there. It'll be a hell of a job to get it in
So all you need to do once you get that clamped and the clamps are still on your nail the joist every
Nail the board's every joists are two nails per joist
making sure on the ends that you pre-drill, so you don't split it and
Then you start the system again go another three or four boards
Clamps
sacrificial piece clamp it up now the last board don't worry about now in the in-between boards and get them at the end just
nail the end board and
Keep repeating the system
Boards
Packer
Clamp and then nail and just keep working your way back until you get to the point where
Obviously our clamps are not going to fit in between this gap so the best thing you can do is
you could either get a crowbar or a Jimmy bar and get down to the ground if it was close enough or
you can just get a
Chisel
Drive it into the joist and use that to lever it back and once you get to this stage
I'd be doing that for every board
so I'll be pushing up every board with my chisel and nailing that off and
do that in several places along the length of the board so it's
got the same pressure on it and
Do that to get right up to the wall making sure
You maintain your 10 mil gap against your wall and keep them pushed up nice and tight
Then we can move over to the next room put our Packers in spaces in and
Start the same procedure so this case it's such a short room. I'm not going to put joins in it although
It'll produce a lot of waste
So you may be compelled to put a couple of half joint half lenghts in here, but it's the same procedure with other boards down
put our Packer in clamp them up now them off
boards
Pack, clamp and nail
boards and we got it right through to the end
maintain our gap at the end and
Same for the rest of the house making sure you put your Packers in making sure you maintain your packing all the way around
and
there's our cut in floor in place remembering that our walls would already be there and that
our roof would be on and we'd be fairly well protected probably even have the brickwork up
Before you actually started this process, so well nice expensive timber floor is preserved