Hey everyone,
Welcome back to PEX UNIVERSE, today we’re going over how to choose a shower
base and install it.
There’s all sorts of different variations for shower bases, long and narrow, square,
rectangle, but not all may be the best choice for you.
There’s some advantages to purchasing a complete base vs creating a new one like you
would with tile. The biggest advantage is time, ease, and the odds are higher for proper
installation. If you choose to go with tile, there will be other costs and things to think
about.
For instance, you will want a reputable professional to install it, there’s a lot of leveling,
sealing, and attention to detail involved. After it’s installed, hopefully correctly
without drainage problems like stagnant water leading to mold, you’ll still have to maintain
the grout between the tiles more often.
Tile is an awesome choice when it’s executed correctly, however if you’re working within
a certain budget or want to install yourself these premade bases are built just for you.
First we need to figure out what kind you need. Use a measuring tape and figure out
what the dimensions are where you want to install your shower base.
Where is the drain located? Most of the time it’ll be directly center but if your shower
was previously a bathtub or was piped for one, then we have bases where the hole is
to either side to help alignment.
Just a couple vocabulary terms to get straight so there’s no confusion, an Alcove is where
the base meets the wall, and a Threshold is where the base faces out not aligned with
the wall which is normally where the door or walls will go.
There’s three types of bases, single threshold, double threshold, and Neo-angle bases. There
are some other kinds like a bathtub conversion shower base or ADA compliant bases to allow
handicap access but generally speaking the first three are the most commonly used.
When you’re looking for bases not only do you want to get the correct size, color, and
shape, but you also want to look into the build quality. If you see a nice looking shower
base for an awesome deal, then flip it over and look at how it’s made.
A lot of times when manufacturers or companies are looking to cut costs then the products
take a direct hit. For shower bases you want to check the thickness as well as it’s support.
When you have a thinly made base you’ll most likely notice some type of wood or inexpensive
material placed underneath to keep it from bending too much and cracking.
A brand we trust is E.L. Mustee’s, their products are all made here in the United States
and when compared to a lot of bases we’ve seen they are much thicker and stronger. They
also incorporate the supports directly into their molds instead of using cheaper materials.
On top of that they use a proprietary mixture to create their bases that add to the sturdiness
and longevity overall.
When it comes to sizing there’s basically two categories, residential and special use.
Everything under 30x60 is what you’d find in a typical house as a shower, anything over
30x60 is either a tub that’s being turned into a shower or other special installations.
If you do happen to be converting a bathtub into a shower it’s important to double check
where the drain hole is. When looking at the tub, if the drain is on the right side make
sure you get a matching base so everything can easily be aligned.
Now when it comes to selecting the correct color, in person will always be best. When
you’re basing the colors off of your computer or phone screen the color will change from
device to device just something to be aware of.
There’s some standard colors like white, bone, biscuit, ruby, etc. For the Mustee’s
they say its white but when you zoom in you’ll see that it’s white with little darker spots,
this is intentional. If you have a completely white shower it will be a lot easier to notice
dirt or stains from use. Having a color that is appealing for what you’re after but can
also help hide blemishes is always a good choice.
So now that you’ve selected the correct size, style, and color it’s time to install
it. This install is for the base only and the example used is a Mustee brand base, you
will either be reusing the walls currently there or will be purchasing new ones which
are also easy to install.
Here’s a list of tools you’ll need, feel free to take a photo of the screen:
A Hammer, screwdriver, power drill, 5/32s” drill bit, hole saws, tape measure, level,
safety glasses, pencil, deck screws minimum 1”, Two 1”x3”x70” plywood panels,
¼” dowel rod, shims, 30 lb. felt paper or mortar cement, silicone sealant, and tub
surround adhesive.
You’ll need to construct an alcove that matches your base with a 5 and 1 half inch
x 5 and 1 half inch square opening in the subfloor for drain clearance. Do not install
the shower base on exposed floor joists.
The studs should be plum and the subfloor capable of withstanding a shower. Reference
the installers guide for stud placements within the alcove to allow maximum support.
After you’ve constructed the alcove and finished rough plumbing, cut the drainage
pipe to be level with the subfloor and secure it in place. Note: this shower base has an
integral drain but others may need the pipe to come up higher than the sub floor - check
your installation guide if you’re unsure what will work.
Additional support for optional features like grab bars and or seats should be installed
now before the walls are put up. Refer to the installation guide for proper or ideal
placing to allow the best experience.
You’re now ready to install the shower floor, it’s equipped with an integral drain and
is applied with a drain seal to connect to 2” ABS, PVC, or Iron drain waste pipes,
if you have a drain that’s 1 and a half inches or a different material then we also
have the additional options for that fitting.
Place the floor in the alcove with the integral drain directly over the waste pipe. The shower
floor must rest directly on the subfloor. To check that the shower floor is even, place
a level on the left and right sides,as well as the back flange and front threshold. Always
on the tallest edge rather than the shower floor where it is purposefully slanted for
water drainage.
Now remove the shower floor from the alcove, if the ground floor is level then it’s suggested
to use the 30lb roofing felt pad as a contact buffer between the shower base and subfloor
to compensate for any inconsistencies.
If your floor does happen to be out of level then use a mortar mixed bed to help level
the shower floor while giving it full support.
Carefully set the shower floor back into place within the alcove and double check that it
is sitting level. Once it’s in position use a screw gun and the 6 mounting clips that
come with it to secure the floor to the studs. Use two clips per side in the center of the
studs.
Install the drain seal, if you’re having trouble wiggling it on you can add a very
small amount of liquid drain soap on the inside and outside to slide on easier. Push it down
into the integral drain cup. Using a hammer and the 1/4th in dowel rod, tap the seal down
until it’s even with the top of the waste pipe.
Once you’ve finished that you can press the strainer into place.
You’ve now finished the installation of the shower floor!
Do you have any questions that weren’t answered in this video? If so shoot us a message or
leave a comment and we’ll see how we can help.
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That’s all for now, I’ll see you in the next video.