welcome to sailing vessel seeker we're building a big-ass sailboat but this video is about how to
use flaring tools the flare especially stainless steel hydraulic lines 37 degree we'll also show
you some 45 degree stuff too and also how to bend those lines we've got to replace these and these
are just steel so they have rusted over the years they came off our auto crane here which is getting
ready to go back together so we're going to use stainless and if you look really close
that pipe in the middle there is stainless it just has a little bit of different luster to it and put
some salt water on those and they'll rust up real quick that's just steel steel is much easier to
flare because it just is it doesn't harden up like stainless does stainless is always more
brittle but we've got to show you some tricks and some things to avoid so let's start off with the
flaring tool the tool guy republic i bought this kit because it comes with 45 and the 37. we got
it set up with a 37 degree die in there now and it just pops on there so it's easy to switch out but
i'm not terribly impressed with it uh let me show you why this batch of flares we did on that tool
and you can obviously get it wrong and we found a couple of tricks that will help you out now this
is stainless steel not steel line so it's going to be more susceptible to cracking because it's a
more brittle metal and you'll need a bending tool but don't let some monster like andy get a hold of
it because he broke my bending tool i knew i was gonna have to replace this because this is kind of
cheap this one is nice this type is nice not this one anymore because it does do three sizes of pipe
three sixteenths quarter and three eighths uh and when you gotta go bigger you gotta go bigger and
so we've got one of these this is actually a pipe bending tool but it will work for tubing if you're
careful with it and you're going to need a bigger pipe bender if you're going to go with half inch
pipe especially stainless steel well that's a 14 tubing bender he broke so that's why it broke we
need to put a little more money into it than that all right i like this tipping bender that goes
up to half inch 3 16 quarter three eighths and half it should be harder to break shouldn't it
so that tubing bender came off amazon two more foreign and it's got dies that go on up to larger
sizes which is great i think i may like that on a boat hundred and fifty two dollars for it
the largest die it comes with is one inch which is why they have the extension on
the handle so you can really crank down on it and it's gotta bolt down to something
too yeah works pretty good even for 3 8 inch just a bigger radius
i think it goes like that may be a different tool when i'm done with it here
i'm gonna put a brace across it maybe it'll be stronger than toilet paper
so let's get back to this tgr gadget this combination set what came with two sets of dies
45 degree and 37 degree from 3 16 quarter 5 16 and 3 8 but not half so i've gone with another
tool for a larger diameter we'll come back to that first thing to avoid is an old and dull
tubing cutter okay so say goodbye to it get yourself something new and sharp this is a tight
quarters tubing cutter but it works just fine you don't have to put a lot of pressure on that
just tighten that down a little bit do a 360. tighten it down a little bit more do a 360.
you can clamp onto the tubing if you need to but be careful not to scratch it or dent it or
crimp it too much you know not too much on the pressure because that may be a spot you
need because you're going to need to put a nut on there and then one of these collars and be sure
to put these on before you do your flare because if you got a bend in your pipe already or it's
got a flare on the other end you're not going to be able to do it afterwards and you want to see
one nice little line being left there by your tubing cutter if it starts to do that spiral
thing that's time to throw it to the trash can i have some patience with it it'll get there
there it is once you get it cut notice it's going to have a little bit of lip of steel in there and
you really do need to get that out especially on stainless i can show you right here on the edge
of this one now this one's already been flared but you see right along that rim right there you see
that little broken line there that is the burr that's just been folded back and pressed into
the flare and that's not going to be a good seat right there so you want to de-burr your tube first
my new tubing cutter arrived brand new rigid this is a nice one and it's got a little blade in here
that you can pull out and you can stick it into the end of the tube or pipe and deburr it but it
i don't think it's going to do a nice job which needs to work with stainless steel but
that's here this is easier to use just because the leverage you have out on it but if i had to
buy one i'd buy the close quarters one because you can use it everywhere so get your drill out
considerably larger drill bit and just drill that ever so gently and you will cut that birth
and even better if you've got a carbide burr tip like this one that does an even smoother job
much better that's what we're after anything that rolled over to the outside flat file will
take that down so that's what you want to end up with no burr the next thing to do is to avoid
it splitting open like that the first one i did right there look how beautiful that is after that
they started splitting okay so you can get lucky but if you don't think you're gonna get lucky
use heat and we have found that if you heat it up to a nice orange glow it will work every time
now this jig thing just has three steps you gotta go through once you get locked down you snug it
up a bit and the first one just pushes the end of the tube back in to where it should be that's
called the option zero and then he tightens that vise on down flips it over to option one which
is a three-eighths inch it's called a dual flare so that's just giving a little bit of
a push outward then he goes to the 3 8 inch flare cranks down on that and that is doing
the real flare job there and if it all comes out right we get a flare that's not split open
and that looks beautiful there you go stainless steel 3 8 inch flare on a tgr
flaring tool and again 45 degrees most fuel lines 37 degree is for most hydraulic saw this fits the
jic fittings now you say well just use compression fittings yeah you can use compression fittings too
you don't have to actually flare the tubing we were out shopping this morning for hydraulic
parts and sure enough there somewhere in here yeah this is it is a compression fitting this fits half
inch now why did we go with compression for half inch because we don't have a flare tool that'll do
it yet one's on the way it'll be included in this video when it arrives but inside there see there's
there's your little collar you put on it and there's your flare nut the problem here
is that that flare piece is 10 bucks and then you still got to buy whatever it goes into to make
the jic but yeah if you don't have a half inch flare tool or want to avoid them all together
you can use compression fittings remember before you make a second hand put your collar and your
nut on there and do look inside make sure there's no crack or split or a gouge because that's just
going to be a leaking point if you're a little too aggressive with your flare you might need
to file down the outside edge to get it to go on and there it is you can go from ugly beautiful
now it's important to understand you got to have a vise to clamp this thing into they really didn't
give you a good way of bolting that down if you had to so you're going to need a vise handy to use
this tool and you decided to clamp this one into the vise too and it fits just fine in a six inch
vise look at that oh sorry our imperial tubing bender showed up and the advantage it has is a
much shorter radius and easier more compact and everything too that is much nicer right so you
can't flare it any shorter than that unless you get a different flare tool yeah we got a
different flair tool but it didn't show up till uh wednesday the advantage of this thing is it does
half inch my rigid flaring tool arrived today you gotta look at this thing this is a fantastic tool
and you can buy them for flaring 37 degree or 45 degree or even the metric stuff is in there
simple instructions written in simple english i like that and the best thing about this tool is it
doesn't come apart but look at this they put indents along the side so that it lines itself
properly with the hole and i already tried it out on half inch steel look at that looks
great i think it would do half inch stainless just fine now see those little ridge marks on the side
you are going to get that but that should make any difference that's just where the flare nut goes
each size has those little rings carved into it and that's how it grips onto the tubing
so step one slide it down so that you can open it up this is a piece of 3
8 inch stainless tubing close it up around that slide it down set the pan into the side
not too much because you want to move the tubing back and forth see i got it sticking up high so
that's going to be a really big flare and the flare nut probably won't go over it so i'm going
to back that down a little bit the lower you go the smaller your flare is going to be you'll
get used to what you want when you got it there tighten that up here's the magic of this thing
as i turn the handle watch inside there watch that point can you see that it's off centered
so it's going to look like it wobbles as it turns and that's what it's doing it's going around it
it's not bending the whole thing at one time it's just doing it ever so gently by going around it so
the next piece of the magic to it is this clutch right here it's spring loaded so if it's not
too tight it's going to keep driving the flare tool down into the tubing but when it gets too
tight it's going to break this clutch loose i may need to put this in advice
so you can see what happens here is these threads drive the cone down into it to do the flaring but
this piece here will eventually release that pin comes up and that puts this thing into like a free
spinning mode and you go around two more times and that just smooths out the side so it's not oval
there we go a couple more times around there you can see that clutch actually pop back in
there you can also take a screwdriver or your pocket knife or something
lift that pin up a little bit and that clears that clutch to move a little further
other than that clutch pin possibly not releasing the only thing i can say bad
about is it takes longer to get you know it all unwound from this thing so you can
use it but if you're not going to be making hundreds of these things i don't see a problem
that's a nice flare so now you can have fun making flares we did and they're actually working
that crane's all ready to go back on the boat and if you're new here you may be asking what boat
this one here saving vessel seeker sv seeker she's going to be a free of charge research vessel once
she's on the water we're going to take students and professors and researchers citizen scientists
anybody that has a passion for doing something on the water we're going to take them along for
a ride that crane is going to be part of the operation and if you want to help support us
then you can purchase any of the tools that we've shown you in this video from amazon
those are affiliate links in the description and if you haven't already sign up for amazon
smile it's where your portion of your purchase will go to support the non-profit of your choice
if you don't have anything better sp seeker is supported by the seachest foundation so
money that goes to the seachest foundation is non-profit and that money will then buy equipment
fuel and things that these researchers need on this boat oh and we moved the boat to the tulsa
porter katusa on august 12th and we launch here on august 21st come join us in tulsa
you