[music] Conor: We get asked this question
a lot here on GCN. What is the best bike to buy for under £1,000, €1,000, or $1,000 USD? Because
we're global, it's actually quite a difficult one to answer. What's available in the UK is very
different to what's available in the US or even Antarctica. You'd need a fat bike there, wouldn't
you? However, we can tell you what to look out for in a bike of under £1,000, $1,000 or €1,000,
or whatever currency is in your respective nation. For £1,000, the bike at this price point, we're
using to be alloy rather than carbon. Although most will have a carbon fiber front fork. You may
find some are full carbon fiber frames. Although at this price point, they'll usually be around the
same weight as their alloyed counterparts. This is because of slightly less high-end components,
which are therefore a little bit heavier. Now, most bikes at this price point,
will usually weigh around nine kilograms. Don't be put off by the fact that a bike is
alloy. They may be a little bit heavier, but they have amazing stability. They're also very durable
and rust-resistant. As a result, they suit the needs of a range of riders. What about steel?
You can buy steel frames for under £1,000, but they are a little harder to find than
their alloy counterparts. Steel, like alloy, is a little heavier than carbon fiber frames.
Although steel does make a very comfortable ride, particularly over longer rides. Steel is easy to
repair and it's also very durable, although it is open to corrosion. Now, steel is often reserved
for touring bikes, winter bikes, or custom bikes. For £1,000, alloy frame bikes will usually have
something like Shimano 105 fitted, which is a very capable group set and should see you through a few
years. If you get a carbon fiber frame for under £1,000, or that will usually be fitted
with something like Shimano Sora or Shimano Tiagra, which is again a capable group set,
but a little less high-end than Shimano 105. Now, for reference, here is a list of all group sets
in order of shininess. Duras Di2 is the top spec group set for Shimano, the same with RED eTAP for
SRAM, and super record EPS for Campagnolo, whereas entry level group sets are Claris for Shimano,
Apex for SRAM and Veloce for Campagnolo. It's unlikely that you'll find a bike, though,
for £1,000 with much above Shimano 105 or SRAM rival or Campagnolo Athena group set levels.
Wheels will likely be quite heavy. Tires may not be as light and they might not roll as fast,
but at this price point, does it really, really matter? There are a mixture of rim
brake bikes and disc brake bikes, both have their advantages and their disadvantages. This brakes
at this price point tend to be mechanical, which aren't as reliable or powerful as a
hydraulic counterpart. Rim brakes at this price point, they tend to be great value for money.
Look for a bike with 25 or 28-mill tires for the perfect compromise between comfort and
rolling resistance. 23-mill tires, they're a little less wide, a little more uncomfortable,
particularly on rough roads, but don't let this stop you. Tires are an easy upgrade later on,
and most bikes these days will accommodate tires of up to 28-mil width, but double-check this when
you buy the bike. My Orbea orca, for instance, will accommodate tires up to 32 millimeters.
One of the things to look out for when buying a bike at this price point is upgrades. We here at
GCN, we love shiny new upgrades for our bikes. Sneaking a worn out rear mech or a new chain,
or maybe even a nice new set of race wheels. Sneaking all those parts of the other half is a
lot easier than buying the whole frame, the whole bike all at once, isn't it? You know what I mean?
A brand new drive train chain cassette or chain ring can make the world of difference to how your
bike feels. The same goes for gear cables, which is a relatively cheap upgrade to make.
When you are purchasing your bike, factor this into your decision and decide what
upgrades you might need to make straight away, and what upgrades can maybe wait a few months.
Key to finding the best bike for you at any price point is taking a few options out for
a ride and seeing how they get on with you. Making sure a bike fits properly is far more
important than the weight of the wheels or the group set, in my opinion. Go see your local bike
shop and try out a few bikes at your chosen price point. Many bike shops would allow you to take a
demo bike out for a ride for a deposit, and this way you can try out a lot of different
bikes and see which one you really like. You'll be able to find plenty of friendly advice and help
from your local bike shop, and they would also probably have a few secondhand bikes for sale,
which had been serviced ready for resale, and you might find some great bargains here,
maybe pick up a bike which would normally been outside that £1,000 budget if you bought it new.
Now these days, road bikes come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. Here's a little
explanation to clear up any of that confusing lingo. Endurance or sportive bikes, now one of
the greatest differences between bikes are their geometries. If you're looking for a more relaxed
ride, a more comfortable ride, or maybe you just don't want to put as much strain on your lower
back than an endurance or sportive bike, maybe the bike for you as a more relaxed geometry, and it's
also perfect for beginners because of this. The gravel or adventure bike category. Now,
these feature wider tires, a relaxed geometry, and often come with disc brakes. They're
extremely versatile on a happy off-road as well as on-road. With a quick wheel or tire change,
you can quite easily keep up on your local club run. Now, I love this category of bikes.
I think they're kind of like the do-it-all bike, if adventure, or maybe getting off
the beaten track is at the forefront of your mind, then maybe this is the bike category for
you. I think they're just amazing. I think I've summarized it as the do-it-all bike
category. If you're looking at getting into a race in, or maybe a higher average speeds,
or rolling along on those roads and your next sportive, a faster pace, or maybe an aero bike
is the one for you, featuring aerodynamic tubing and also a more aggressive riding position.
An aero bike is a great option if you're going in search of speed. However, be warned,
at this price point, they might be a little more difficult to find, and may feature lesser
components. If you're looking for a bike to commute with, you definitely want to look
for bike with eyelets, firm mudguards, and also pannier racks to hold all your bags and important
documents that I'd normally carry to work myself. You also want to have a wider tire clearance and
maybe a more relaxed geometry. I think here in this category, there's a definite crossover
between adventure and gravel bikes too. Women's specific bikes, as Manon covered in a recent
video, are not essential, but they are simply another option to choose from. They're usually
fitted with narrower handlebars or women's specific saddle, and quite often they will come
in smaller sizes. Also, you may find they come with 650B wheels as opposed to 700C wheels. Now,
650B wheels are a smaller diameter wheel. Also, you may find that they come with shorter cranks.
Now, regardless of gender or women's specific bike, maybe the bike is for you simply because
it fits better. I hope this video has given you a good idea of what to expect,
if you are looking to buy a bike for under £1,000, $1,000 or €1,000. If I've left any tips out,
please let me know in the comment section below, and I'd really love to hear from you. Thanks
everyone for watching. Happy riding. [00:08:29] [END OF AUDIO]