Hi.
I'm Mike from 1A Auto.
We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
Hi everyone.
Sue here from 1A Auto.
Today, we have an '07 Honda Accord in the shop, and we're going to be showing you how
to do a front-brake service.
If you need those parts or any other parts of your car, click on the link below and head
on over to 1aauto.com. 19-millimeter socket to loosen up the lug nuts.
Now, I am going to raise and support my vehicle with my two-post lift, and you can use jack
stands with a jack.
Now, we're clear to remove the tire.
First thing to do is remove the boot for the caliper bleeder, and we're going to break
that open and make sure it moves.
10-millimeter wrench.
Nice and smooth.
I'm just going to lightly snug it, so that I can break it free once it's hanging.
12-millimeter socket.
We can break free the caliper mounting/slider bolts.
It's two.
One on the top, one in the bottom.
So now we're going to look at the caliper slider bolts.
They both look good shape.
Nothing's wrong with them.
I can take a pry bar now and just pry my caliper off in the caliper bracket.
While that's out, I can look at it, make sure the dust boot's not torn.
There's no fluid leak.
I'm going to take my tool that pushes the caliper piston back, snug it up before I start
to push that piston back.
I can open that bleeder screw again.
Aim it at the bucket I have down below to catch the brake fluid.
At this time, I'm going to feel out the caliper piston.
It's going back really smooth.
No glitches.
It's not frozen.
No fluid's coming out of the dust boot.
So, we have a good seal.
Once that's snug, I can re-tighten my bleeder screw.
17-millimeter socket, and now we're going to break free the caliper bracket to knuckle
bolts.
It's just two of them.
One top, one bottom.
Now we have the bracket with pads in it.
There's the front rotor.
So, now all's we have to do is take the pads out of the bracket, and that's basically if
they're frozen, and then you can take a hammer, or I just squeeze them sometimes as the outer
pad and the inner.
I'm noting where the indicator is on the inner pad.
Here, we have our front rotor for our '07 Honda Accord from 1A Auto, and here we have
our set of pads.
They come pre-shimmed.
They have the beveled edges to allow the brake dust to disperse evenly.
Both inner and outer pad have that marking, and they both come with the shims.
The rotors are a nice crosscut.
They have the manufacturer's amount of vintage specs, and it has the actual specs stamped
on it.
Here, we have a rotor that we took off.
It's probably not original equipment, so if you need these parts or any of the parts for
your car, click on the link below and head on over to 1aauto.com.
Now, I'm going to clean the surface of the hub.
Use a little brake clean.
You can see all that dirt and grease come right off, and just use a nice wire brush.
We don't want any raised grease.
I mean, raised rust lines.
I just want to point something out here.
So if someone has done a brake job on this car probably in the past eight months or so,
then you can see the groove lines.
They took what we call a grinder wheel or a whizzer cookie, and they just went to town
on this hub.
There's a couple of problems with that.
That is shaving the metal off.
You can see the actual marks.
The car is probably...
It's an '07, so it's 12 years old.
It's up there in age.
The customer's never going to feel a pulsation, but you need to keep this down to a minimal
of how much metal you take away from a hub on a mounting surface.
So, now, we're going to clean up our front caliper bracket.
First thing I'm going to do is clean the tins while they're in the bracket.
It's easier to hold onto them.
Do that to both sides.
Now, we can take the tins off.
Let's clean out the surface that they mount to.
See that right there?
It's layers of rust.
That's what I want to avoid, so I can chip away that.
That'd be great.
What happens there is that rust ends up swelling and pushing that tin up.
It makes that pad not slide in and out of the bracket, so we call that...
It'll end up with uneven wear and premature wear.
That's the whole point of doing what we're doing.
That's much better.
I'm going to clean the backside of the brackets here, the tins.
These tins are in good shape.
You can always order a set of tins with the brake job.
So, if you don't want to clean, you want to avoid this part of the job.
It will go quicker.
Plus you don't know if it's damaged until you take it apart.
So, might be best for the few dollars it costs to be prepared and just change them out new
every time.
Now, I'm going to take the sliders out, and these are stiff, so I don't know what I'm
going to find when I take this out whether it's damaged.
I might actually take a pair of pliers to this.
I got it.
Wow.
Okay, so either they put too much grease in there, or they didn't clean it when they redid
it.
Look at the condition of this.
Looks like it's going to be able to be reusable.
Let's take the boot off, really examine the boot.
Make sure there's no pin holes.
That looks good.
I'm going to take the wire brush and clean inside there.
I'm going to repeat that process on this side.
I'm going to reinstall the boot.
Both sides, reinstall.
Let's put some silicone paste right in there.
This is water resistant, so hopefully, it stops that rust buildup that we saw that we
took out.
That only goes underneath, nothing on the top part of the tins.
We want a smooth sliding surface.
Okay, the rubber bushing always goes on the top caliber bracket.
I don't know about always.
That seems like it's always that way, especially with Hondas.
I got to put some on the boot inside.
Much smoother.
I couldn't even turn it before.
Perfect.
Let's do the same on the other side.
I've put the rotor on backwards so that I can clean the surface before I install it.
I'm just getting the package oil off, the anti-rusts they put on for it when it sits
on the shelf.
I got to spray a little anti-seize lubricant on the hub.
Now, I can mount my rotor.
This did not have any of the mounting screws.
They must have fallen off in previous... or maybe broke off in previous installations.
I'm going to use a lug nut to hold that rotor flush to the hub.
Now, you clean this surface of the verdict.
Now, we're ready to install our caliper bracket.
We have a upper bolt key.
Slide it.
Then the lower bolt.
We're just going to snug these.
Then I'm going to torque them to the manufacturer's specs.
80-foot pounds is the specs for these caliper to knuckle bracket bolts.
Now, we can put our pads in the caliper bracket.
Put the inner one in first, and that's the one with the indicator, and it's on the top
and the outer pad.
Let's grab the caliper, ready to mount that.
You'll see a flat spot on the sliders.
Those line up with the angle of the caliper.
I'm going to torque down the caliper slider bolt, and it's 26-foot pounds.
Last thing I'm going to do is reopen the bleeder screw, and let it gravity bleed till I see
a steady stream of fluid.
Looks good.
No air bubbles.
Well, we can snug that up.
Let's clean it and re-install our caliper with the screw cover.
Now, we're ready to put our wheel back on.
I'm just going to snug them up by hand.
Then I'll lower it down on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on it, and I'll
torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds.
19-millimeter socket, and we're going to torque the wheel to 80-foot pounds in a star pattern.
Double check.
Now, we're going to repeat the process on the other side.
Thanks for watching.
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