hello everyone and welcome to another video from Rum Barber I know we were
planning to step back from fade tutorials this year and focus more
scissor work but we still get a lot of questions about fading which is your
preferred method what method are you using currently and more specific
questions like how do I get rid of that first guideline so this week I filmed
two customer haircuts I thought I could use those tutorials both of these cuts
were filmed during an actual working day so forgive the sometimes awkward
camera angles both customers are growing at the top of their hair so only
required minimal scissor work and the majority of the work was on each fade
this is the first of the two cuts and I will hopefully have the second one up
soon as my client was growing the top of his hair and had all even getting the
sides cut there was a bit of a disconnection happening between the
sides of the top I do want to maintain a weight line in this cut so I'm going to
work for the horizontal graduation to remove length for build weight my first
section runs diagonally forward from the end of the parting
the hair is combed out and slightly down and a horizontal line is cut about a
fingers depth from the head a second diagonal forward section is taken again
from the parting to about halfway between the previous section and the
front hairline again the hair is pulled out slightly down and a horizontal line
is cut
a third section starting from the parting runs diagonally forward this
time to the front hairline and hair is cut the same way
the final section on this side runs directly parallel to the parting the
hair again is pulled slightly downwards and the line is cut horizontally at the
crown area take a diagonal back section and cut a line from the previously cut
hair towards the center back of the head
take another diagonal back section which runs across to the opposite side of the
head and cut a similar line now repeat this process on the other side
when complete comb all the remaining hair across and remove any excess hair
that is longer than the weight line we have created to begin the fade I level
out the surface with a number two guard working up to the weight line
next I create my bald guideline going up about one fingers depth above the year
to bald out cleanly I'm using my foil I clear the majority of the area and when
I get near the first guideline I start reducing the pressure and slightly
flicking out
here you can see the amount of space I leave below the guideline I work on the
hair left by the foil with my trimmers this starts to create a smooth blend
from skin to the fade my next guide line is created using my clipper with
the lever fully open I take this up about 3/4 of an inch
now this is what I really want to explain what I do I always blend this
area first as many people do but in videos it's often hard to see what is
exactly going on so if we look at this diagram these two lines represent the
second guideline created by the clapper with the lever fully open I usually
close the lever halfway and I go right up and flick out just under the top of
the guideline roughly about here then I close the lever fully and go up
two-thirds of the way in flick out so about here the reason I take the lever
half close so high in this guide is because later you will be extending the
initial lever fully open higher up turbit here so that you can stretch out
the blend so this is me starting with the lever half-closed going right up
under the top line
now with the lever fully closed I work on the bottom two-thirds of this area
we asked a lot about removing that initial line so this is the method that
I use a lot I used the trimmers in a downward motion
from just a little above the line that you're trying to remove I find
this removes the hair in a controlled way letting you keep going at the line
until you're happy with the blend I also use the corners of the trimmers to chip
away areas that are harder to blend
now with my one guard fully open I create my next guideline starting with
the half guard fully open I work up flick out just below where I
left off the one guard open
next I closed the lever half way and continue blending down
finally I fully closed the lever and blend out the bottom of the guide
at this point I refine the blend by opening and closing the lever as necessary
to remove any imperfections I only really use the corners of the blade as
you have greater control and can refine narrower areas again using the downwards
motion this time with the foils I completely remove any trace of a line
created when using the foils initially
to connect the fade to the top length I use a clipper or in this case a trimmer
over comb technique
here I'm adding a line in the parting area just as a slight enhancement you can
see the shape of the new Babyliss GoldFX really help when doing
something like this
to style I re-wet the hair and apply some Daimon Barber texture clay I combed the
clay into the hair so it is distributed evenly and dry into style
and here's the finished result we really hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found
it useful if you did please like this video share it with someone who might
find it useful and make sure you subscribe to see future tutorials as
always thanks very much for watching see you next time