Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today I’m going to walk you through the process to replace the drive clutch assembly
on our 2007 Yamaha Grizzly YFM700.
Just need to get a couple of panels off … the outer cover, and then get the primary sheave
out of the way.
But before we do that, let’s head over to the tool table and talk about the tools and
the parts that we’re going to need to pull this off.
Welcome to the tool bench.
This is going to be a skill level 2, but you’re really going to need to pay attention as we
will be going, pretty far into the engine.
Now as far as the tools you’re going to need, pretty standard.
4mm Allen, an 8, a 10, a 22 and a 27.
As always, you’re going to have a good torque wrench, a couple of different extensions,
as well as a 3/8th ratchet.
On the wrench side, just a 10 and a 12.
Also want to pick up a good pick tool, a set of circlip pliers, and then an impact with
a Phillips on the end of it.
Now on the specialty side, want to have at least two 6 millimeter bolts, as well as these
two different types of clutch holders.
This is what they call a clutch basket holder.
And this is what they call an outer clutch holder, so you’re going to need to have
both of those to get this project done.
Now, if you would, reference our exploded parts diagrams.
That is going to give you a very clear picture of how all of this is going to come apart
and more importantly, how we’re going to get it back together.
So, once you’ve got your tools and your parts together, I can go walk you through
the process, so let’s go.
Not much to it, to start with guys, just need to get this footwell out of the way.
It’s just a 4mm Allen and a 10mm wrench will do it.
Looks like this is looking a little rough.
It’s got a couple of cracks in it.
So, I think I’m going to get another one of these ordered.
Next, I want to remove this upper panel so I can access the bolts that are holding on
the top of the cover.
Alright, let’s remove all these 10 mm bolts.
To get the cover off more easily, I’m going to actually loosen up this brake cable, to
where I’ll have enough travel to go down and get that cover off.
That should do.
There we go.
We’re going to go ahead and pull off this bearing carrier.
Alright, let’s go ahead and loosen up the secondary sheave.
And you do that with just a couple of extra 10mm bolts with a 6mm thread.
I want to make sure they’re fairly long.
When we run those in it’s going to open the sheave up and allow us to get the belt
off.
Now what we’re about to do here in a second is take off this large bolt at the end of
the primary sheave.
And when we do that, it’s actually just going to pull off and you’ll see an inner
bearing and then the inner part of the sheave as well.
Alright, this is a 22mm.
Now, just the outer bolt.
Washer.
And this whole assembly will come off.
Let’s go ahead and get off the center section and the inner sheave.
Alright, with that taken care of, let’s go ahead and get that uh, the nut for the
secondary sheave.
Now, we just have a few 10 millimeters to get out of the way, to get this cover off.
Before I take those out, let’s go ahead and take off the breather hose up top and
then push it out of the way.
Let’s see if it’ll slide off now.
Before we go any further, let’s go ahead and drop the oil out of it.
And the reason we’d be going this deep, that would be if you didn’t have any forward
motion and you knew your belts were in good shape but that, or a common failure is this
output seal right here will leak.
So, you’d have to go this far to do either procedure.
Alright, I’m going to put this back in and get it torqued down and if you need help getting
your oil changed on your Grizzly, we’ve got a video for that, so reference it and
I can walk you through the process.
Alright, with that taken care of, let’s go ahead and get that uh, that cover off.
All of these are 8mm heads.
Different lengths, you may want to keep up with how they’re coming out.
Let’s see if we can get this pulled apart now.
Don’t press too hard against this outer part of the case.
I think the last thing you’d want to do is crack it and have to replace it.
So just small prying, don’t just crank down on it.
Let’s go ahead and get the clutch mechanism out.
Now, the trick with this one, this is actually a reverse thread, so we’re going to need
to turn it clockwise to get it to come off.
Alright, let’s see if that’ll hold.
That got it.
We’re just using a generic puller.
This is actually a pretty nice one made by Hinson.
All we really had to do was just grab it, in two of these flanges somewhere just to
hold it still, just to pop that nut loose.
She should just slide off.
Alright, let’s carry it over to the teardown bench and do an inspection on it.
Want to look at your uh, one-way bearing when you install this.
It should spin one way freely.
And when you go backwards, it catches.
So that bearing’s in good shape.
Next thing you want to check on the centrifugal clutch is how much surface area you have left
on what they call the shoe.
Each one of these.
Because as this spins, these actually pull against the springs on the inside, make contact
with that outer hub, and that’s what causes the clutch to actually engage.
Now when these things get worn down too far, one it’s going to make you rev the engine
too high for it to engage, and two eventually it’s going to start slipping.
Now these look to be in pretty decent shape.
If they were all the way flattened out on the leading edge here, they’re pretty much
done.
Cause you only have about half a millimeter of play between when it’s brand new and
when it starts to slip.
The other wear indicator you want to look at is this hub right here.
You can see where it’s already starting to cut grooves into this material.
It’s expected over time.
Other thing, you want to feel that front bearing to see if it’s in good shape.
Last but not least, you may have been brought to this stage because this output shaft had
a leak on it.
So, I’m going to go ahead and break this one down and rebuild it.
Just replace the parts you need to on your machine if they’re damaged.
But we’re going to go ahead and rebuild the whole thing so you know how to do it.
Now, with all that clear, let’s make sure our bearing is good to go.
It’s basically perfect, but if it was not then you would remove this other circlip and
then drop it out from the back side.
Not that big of a deal.
But ours is still good to go, so let’s do a little bit of housekeeping since everything
is blown apart.
Let’s get this gasket material cleaned off, then we’ll start putting it back together.
Ok, we’ve got our cover cleaned up and next thing I want to do is go ahead and drive in
this little needle bearing that actually goes to this output shaft.
Alright, this may be too small for my bearing driver set.
But maybe I can use just the handle.
Just take it down flush.
Should be it.
Now on partzilla.com, on the drawings for the 2007 Grizzly, if you went an ordered this
particular piece, the clutch assembly … guess what?
Yamaha actually improved on it and it has a superseded number which is part of a kit.
So what you’re going to see instead of the assembly, the bearing, a circlip, the nut,
the one-way clutch and then the clutch itself … it’s going to be a little bit different,
you’re going to have the assembly, the bearing, a nut, no circlip, one-way clutch and then
this shim, before you actually get to the clutch mechanism itself.
So, just want to keep that in mind if you ordered for a 2007, they’re going to send
you updated parts, which is going to be missing one and have an additional part for your particular
application.
So, don’t let it freak you out.
Alright guys, before we continue, we need to go ahead and soak this assembly in oil
cause this is basically our clutch plates.
Doesn’t need to be anything special, just going to use the Yamaha utility type oil.
And we’re going to coat it down and just let it sit for about an hour, maybe two.
Let it get soaked into those shoes.
Then we’ll come back, and we’ll start putting it back together.
Alright, so our shoes have been sitting in the oil for a while, they’re ready to go.
Let’s go ahead and get the clutch assembly back into the bearing carrier.
Lay that in place, and we’re going to be using a new circlip to hold that bearing where
it should be.
Make sure it’s seated, and we’re good to go.
Next, let’s grease up our seal and get it in place.
Doesn’t take a lot, just want a light coat all the way around it.
We just want it flush, with the outside edge.
So, we finished our work over at the teardown bench, let’s start getting it back on the
machine.
Let’s go ahead and get the clutch assembly in there.
Next, we’re going to get our uh, retaining bolt on.
And remember this is a left hand thread, and you do want to use a new one because we have
to stake it once we get it set.
We’re going to put the clutch holder back on, and then we’re going to torque it to
140 foot-pounds.
Alright, reverse thread.
Let’s go ahead and torque it down.
See that little area right there?
We just want to bend that down into that cavity.
That’ll do.
New gasket, make sure that your dowels are still in place.
We’ve got our seal in.
We’ve got our new one-way bearing and then we’ve got the uh, that new washer that comes
with the kit.
You just go ahead and tap it in place.
Alright, she’s in and what you want to see is to be able to move it counterclockwise
and then it lock up, when you try to go clockwise.
So, that’s what we want.
Let’s start getting some bolts back in there.
Make sure we’ve got it right.
Let’s go ahead and torque them all to 7.
Let’s get the back sheave housing on.
Alright, we’re going to take these to 7 as well.
Basically, if it’s a 6mm thread … 7 is the magic number, or the safe number.
And that would be foot-pounds of course.
Alright, there’s still some grease on the shaft, but we’re going to go ahead and add
to it a little bit.
Now, with that installed, let’s go get our secondary sheave and go ahead and get it put
back on.
Real trick here is getting the splines to line back up.
There we go.
Now this one just has the bolt on it.
Now for the primary, you’ll notice it’s going to have the bolt and then a washer.
And then the assembly.
Now let’s go ahead and get some grease on the shaft.
Then the back half of our primary sheave.
Our center section.
And the outer half of our primary.
Alright, and that’s definitely where it’s supposed to be because if it sits in there
flush, a little bit of the splines should be protruding out, maybe an 8th of an inch.
And that’s what we have.
Now, we can take that washer I was talking about and then … put on our outer bolt.
Alright, at this point we’re going to get a holder to hold the primary and we’re going
to take it to 100 foot-pounds.
Then we’re going to put on the belt, release these two tension bolts, and then go back
and tighten the secondary sheave to 72 foot-pounds.
To have any chance of holding this still, I went up on top of the outer section of the
primary sheave and now I’m using a pry bar just to hold this still so I can put the 100
pounds on it.
There it is.
Now, let’s get this out of the way and get the belts on.
And when we’re doing this, we want to make sure our arrows are going to the front.
And they are.
Bring it in, just walk it over.
Now … let’s release those two tension bolts.
There we go.
Alright, that’s as far out as she wants to go.
Let’s put our holder back on there.
Now, hold that still again.
And take this to 72.
I had roughly 30 pounds on the secondary sheave.
It is a new belt in this scenario.
So I just wanted to crank it up and see if I can get it to bite in a little bit.
We’re going to re-put on the uh, the holder, see if we can get the full 72 foot-pounds
on it.
That got it!
Let’s get a little grease on the end of this shaft and into the uh, inside of the
bearing carrier.
Then we’re going to get it bolted in place.
There are two dowels that are across from each other.
There’s one to the top right and bottom left.
Make sure those are still either a) in the carrier or on the machine itself.
And there are two different bolt lengths.
So the long ones go here, and here.
These two are the short ones.
What’s our magic torque number?
Seven!
Make sure our seal is still in there.
It is.
And I don’t see any cracks in it, so I think we’re good to go there.
All of these bolts are the same length.
Alright, cover’s in place.
Let’s go ahead and get the rear brake adjusted.
Back where it needs to be.
And then we’re down to just some plastics.
I went ahead and ordered a new footwell for it.
If you get a little bit confused, just reference back to our diagrams.
It’s going to show you exactly how to get it back together.
And what goes where.
Alright guys, we’ve got all the plastics back in place.
The only thing I need to do is refill the oil, and we actually have a video on doing
the oil change service on this machine, so if you need a little help, why don’t you
go and reference that one.
Well alright guys, that wraps this project up.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don’t you come see us at partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I’ll do my
best to answer them.
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Have a great day.