Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's video, I'll be taking a look at one
of the very first custom suits that I ever had made, how well it's aged over
the years, what I still like about it, and what I would change in the future.
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Believe it or not, this video has been shaped by you guys. During our previous live streams,
we've received a lot of questions and requests to show off a lot of our very first pieces of
custom-made clothing, and we also thought it was a great idea. So, whilst you'd be
seeing my suit today, there's no stopping you from requesting that Raphael, Preston,
or Nathan do the same in a future video. Come on, go to the comments. You know you want to. Plus,
I'm told our scriptwriters like videos like these because they don't have to do a ton of research.
Well, with all jokes aside, let's get started. First off, I want to clarify what kind of custom
suit this is. Now, the one we'll be reviewing today is a made-to-order suit from Indochino.
Why is it important for us to clarify that? Well, as Preston as discussed in this video,
the word "custom" is a pretty large umbrella term,
where no two items labeled as custom
are going to be of the same quality. So, I want to be completely clear with you guys.
This is not a fully bespoke suit from a Savile Row tailor but, at the same
time, it's not a readily available off-the-rack suit either.
For most of us with an interest in classic tailoring or clothing,
made-to-order is the first big leap or upgrade; sort of the next step in
terms of suiting from having only purchased maybe ready-to-wear, off-the-rack clothing.
It certainly was for me too. And if you're on that journey as well, I hope you get some helpful tips
out of this video. I also wanted to let you know that this isn't my actual very first custom suit.
That suit was actually a solid navy blue from Brooks Brothers. But, as it completely
does not fit anymore, it didn't feel like the best fit to talk about in this video. Because
while I could talk about the details from that suit, I stopped wearing it a very long time ago
and that wouldn't make for an accurate assessment. Okay. Now that we've covered background,
let's take a quick look at the brand that made my suit. Indochino was founded in 2007
by Heikal Gani and Kyle Vucko, with Drew
Green replacing Kyle Vucko after he stepped down in 2015.
And before you ask, no, I did not change my name. Originally,
the company was online-only, specializing in made-to-measure and made-to-order clothing,
focusing on affordability as one of the first companies to do so with its level of success.
And now, this is still the case today, as Indochino has opened around 50 brick-and-mortar
stores in the US and Canada including Vancouver, where their headquarters are based. As of 2021,
Indochina has also partnered with the department store Nordstrom, where over 20 locations now bear
an in-store Indochino. So, as much as we live in a generally casual world,
it's pretty great news that people still want access to tailored clothing. Since
the company launched, they've been a big point of conversation in the menswear world;
with some people raving about how good their products are and, others,
somewhat skeptical about the whole operation. Because of their overall affordability marketing,
they certainly are a great place for us menswear enthusiasts to take a look. But, not everyone is
convinced that Indochino can offer great quality at a low cost. This video is not a direct review
of Indochino as a brand, partially because there are so many Indochino reviews out there. But,
mainly because this is one of my oldest custom suits and I wanted to share my honest thoughts
and feelings about one of my first custom clothing experiences as five years has passed.
Because a lot of the other reviews out there are done with almost no time in between
receiving the product and then talking about it, which isn't a very accurate
representation of actually getting a suit and wearing it in a very real life way. So,
without further ado, let's look at the suit itself.
The suit is a made-to-order, double-breasted, three-piece suit. Now, when I ordered the suit,
which was about five years ago, I believe it cost around $800.
I chose to have it made in a navy wool pinstripe. I chose it because I wanted to feel warm
in the fall and winter months and to have something that was sturdy and sophisticated
any time I decided to wear it. The jacket is constructed in a
traditional 6x2 stance with lapels that are not too wide. As you know from the AMA video
and my live stream, I prefer a more modern silhouette and a slightly slimmer lapel fits
my style well. On the lapel, you'll notice I have a slightly lighter color around the buttonhole.
Now, while it's not everybody's choice, I like it because it helps me to stand out and I don't
always like to have a boutonniere on, so there's something a little bit more unique to me and my
personality on the jacket. And I continued this theme onto the last buttonhole on my working
surgeon's cuffs. I went with surgeon's cuffs because I like subtle details and something
that's unique and something that you might not normally find off the rack. And, of course,
to walk around with the last button open on your sleeve and be able to show off a watch or
the shirt cuff color is always important to me as well. Now,
the jacket is lined in a paisley pattern and I like that I chose this initially because
it gives a sort of "business in the front, party in the back" kind of a vibe, and I
am able to wear the jacket opened completely when walking down the street and wave the color pop.
But, at the same time, I can keep it buttoned up and it's
just personal and something that's meaningful
to me, but it's not in everyone's face, which I like. The rest of the jacket is quite
traditional and it has double vents in the rear, a straight,
welted breast pocket and flapped hip pockets that are cut at an angle. Moving onto the
waistcoat beneath the jacket, you'll start to see some additional interesting details. Now,
just like the jacket, it's a double-breasted closure. But, unlike the jacket, it doesn't
have lapels. Instead, you can see a horseshoe shape form with the overlapping sides of the
waistcoat wrapped over each other. Now, I thought that this was a great choice because it allows
you to bring something simple and unique to your vest that you might not normally see outside of a
made-to-measure or a custom vest option. I liked how, when I would take off my jacket, by wearing
the vest, I would still feel put together and not underdressed. Otherwise, in the waistcoat,
it has a paisley lining,
two pockets, and a back belt. And finally, the suit trousers. Unlike Raphael,
I'm not a big fan of pleats. So, instead, I chose to have my trousers feature a flat front finish
with a side tab closure and no cuff. Now, why did I choose to go double-breasted? In short,
it remains one of my favorite suit jacket features
as our world gets more and more casual with all of its style choices,
I do find that the double-breasted feature on a suit jacket is iconic, sophisticated,
and is always a head-turner. I also find that the double-breasted option looks great on someone
with broad shoulders and chest as well. What's the reason behind making it a three-piece suit? Well,
I really like the option to always appear dressed or put together even if I decided
to remove my suit jacket. Why did I choose that particular fabric? Now, although some might choose
to wear the suit fabric for year-round wear, I chose it because of its sturdy,
heftier feel and it seemed like it would be something that I could wear
in the cooler months. But, I have worn it at almost all times throughout the year except
for summer. Now, why did I choose this color and pattern? Its classic appearance reminds me of old
films and the way gentlemen used to dress, and I find that that classic appearance gives me a
great foundation to add even more of my own personality through things like cufflinks,
ties, or pocket squares. Just like the kind you can get at Fort Belvedere. Were there any
specific details that I wanted on the suit and, if so, why? The contrasting buttonhole thread.
I wanted it for its unique appearance and for the versatility to be able to mix and match with other
colors and different outfits in the future. Now, what do I still love about this suit?
I really like the color and pattern that I chose. It feels true to me, true to my personality,
and something that is quite timeless. The double-breasted feature on the suit jacket
is still a big favorite of mine. It's one of my all-time favorite go-to's
on suit jackets. I think it complements me well. And although I sometimes wear non-double-breasted
suit jackets, I don't wear that all the time. I could definitely see myself making the same
choice if I were to remake the suit today. What would I change about the suit today?
Overall, I'm not thrilled with a side tab closure. It certainly works and it's quite
clean in appearance when your shirt is tucked in but, as my weight has fluctuated over the years,
it has become less effective as opposed to had I chosen belt loops. If I were to order the suit
again today, what would I do differently? It would be to purchase the trousers with belt loops or to,
at least, purchase a second pair of trousers that have belt loops.
I would probably choose to have the same color and pattern choice, but in a lighter-weight fabric.
I can sometimes get a little too hot too quickly. So, there we have it. One of my very first custom
suits put under the microscope. I hope you all enjoyed it and I wonder what was your very first
custom suit experience like. Go ahead let us know in the comments below and, if you'd like to see
anyone else at the Gentleman's Gazette talk about their first custom suit orders, let us know who in
the comments below as well. So, today, I'm wearing a slate gray wool turtleneck with the navy wool
and striped suit trousers as well as a pair of chocolate brown Chelsea boots and a pair of brown
shadow-stripe Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like these.
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