Hello everybody and welcome back to another video. My name is Iain Campbell and today we're
going to be talking about how to duck dive bigger waves. Let's roll that intro...
Duck diving big waves really means that there is a greater task because you've got to go on bigger
waves. But understanding how waves break and what happens on the wave itself is very important to
understanding where you can get under the waves and how you can actually duck dive a lot better
with the waves that you get given. Now in this how-to video, I would like to discuss with you
guys the best way to get under a wave and reading waves as how they're breaking and where the high
and low pressure points of the way are. This will help you to get through the waves a lot easier and
make it so that you can duck dive bigger waves and make it a lot easier for you guys in all
conditions. Firstly we're going to look at this diagram drawn by Mike Stewart. Now this is drawn
a long time ago by Mike, in order to help people to understand how waves work and how the energy
continues to flow throughout a wave. So when we look at this diagram, we're gonna focus on a number
of different things. First of all we're gonna look at how the wave breaks. When it barrels there
are two elements inside the way that you need to know about. First of all is the shock wave which is
formed by the impact of the lip actually hitting the water and bouncing back up into the barrel. As
well as the trough. Now often you hear people talk about the trough, where they fall into the trough
or they disappeared into the trough, and this is basically what happens when the shock wave
shoots that little section up. When we look at where the wave breaks and where that first
impact hits, that is generally a very dangerous place to be. That is a place where there's a lot of
turbulence in the water but straight afterwards we find our first primary low-pressure system. Again
this will happen over and over as the wave keeps going and dissipates onto the shore. That will
mean that you get a second impact as well as a third impact as well as having a secondary and
a third low-pressure from where the wave is. Talking about the impacts and the low pressures,
we can see that directly after a wave is broken there is a low pressure. Basically what you want
to be doing is duck darling in the low pressures and avoiding these impact sections. This will make
it easier for you to find air pockets to travel up to the surface as well as not being hit by those
heavy sections where the wave is actually landing. Trying to avoid those places that all costs will
benefit you in helping you get to the surface that much easier as well as allowing you to fall into
those low pressures in order to get under the wave a lot easier and actually avoid the whitewater
altogether. Before we look at the next four steps to duck down in bigger waves I just like
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below. Now getting back to the video I want to take you guys through four main steps and how
did that dive bigger waves. The first step is to figure out where the energy is in the wave.
Looking at that diagram you can clearly see that the first point of impact is where the most energy
is going to be on the wave and then obviously the second point and the third point after and so on
and so on. It is very important to not get caught in these positions. When you do you find
yourself in a whirlwind of issues and ironically that's really what happens to you. Next you're
going to position yourself correctly. With duck diving there are many videos on YouTube to go and
figure out exactly how to duck down but putting yourself in the right position in order to get
under the wave is very very crucial. This will either make you get under the wave very quickly
and efficiently or on the opposite side not at all efficiently and you're going to get slammed
into the sand or you're gonna get knocked back and end up paddling that much further. The third
step would be to use air pockets. Now the idea of using air pockets is to allow you to get to the
surface a lot quicker and a lot easier. I've done this in a lot of places including big areas like
Hawaii and Nazare where you really get stuck on the inside. Now using the air pockets it allows
you to kind of maneuver your way up through the breaking waves and through the whitewater and
allow you to break the surface a lot easier and a lot quicker. That way you also don't get pushed down
and pushed under for extended periods of time. And the final step is don't fight the water. The ocean
is a very powerful beast and fighting the water is just gonna end in a losing battle. Stay calm
keep thinking about what you are about to do and make sure that you can get to the surface whenever
you find yourself in that situation where you're really stressed out remember that staying calm
will help you get to the surface. Relaxing and not fighting the way is the best way to get out of it.
I'm gonna take you guys through a couple videos to just talk about exactly what I was thinking
when I was duck diving certain waves. I hope this helps you guys in understanding exactly where to
go and how to position yourself and using these steps to give back to the surface and get under
those bigger waves. Let's get into it. As you can see my positioning on this wave looks ok. I go
to duck dive and I'm actually hit by the impact you can see the dark water right there that hits
me and I'm able to make it to the surface break the surface and there's no waves afterwards. Next
we're going to look at this wave the same thing happens but I just make it under that impact and
I'm able to just break the surface with no white water. Next we're going to go into this
one a very white watery section a go to duck dive it and you can actually see how long it takes
me to battle through the whitewater and try to break the surface. Eventually I get up and I
keep paddling out and that's Nazare for you. Lastly we're going to look at a really good example. I'm
paddling up to the wave I can see it's broken I'm in the right position a duck dive look for
a little air pocket. You can see the lighter water, that's the air pocket, pushes me up to the surface
and I break the surface with not much effort needed to keep going and paddling out.
That's all I've got for you today. I hope you guys kind of understood exactly how to get on the waves
and you guys can start to understand how waves break. That diagram from Mike shoot is extremely
important when trying to get under bigger waves and it is one of the key things that I've used
in order to get to the back at a lot of places around the world. So don't forget remember your
limits and know exactly when it is safe to go out. If in doubt don't paddle out! If you guys like this
video please give it a thumbs up as it helps the channel and subscribe to my channel and hit that
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