hey this is kevin's korner and i'm kevin Tetz host of the of the Paintucation
instructional dvd series
You know a successful paint body and restoration project has nothing to do
with magic
it has everything to do with hard work and work that you put in before during
and after your project and that's why it's nice to have a partner like the
Eastwood Company that has all the tools that you're ever gonna need to do all of
those things
and what we're gonna be talking about today is what happens after the paint is
dry
more importantly, correcting some of the defects that happened during the drying
process all that stuff but falls into the paint job
in short, color sanding and buffing
now this hood has been shot and cleared quite a while ago it's fully cured so
it's ready for buffing and there's a couple of pretty gnarly vestments like this
one right here this is a typical dirt nib that falls into the paint
while it's drying
you can feel it when you run your finger over it and quite frankly it looks really bad
on this black paint job but you don't have to live with it and there's easy ways
to fix it
however, there is a process that you need to go through
i'd just like doing your body work you want to do your shaping first this is no
different
but basically we're shaping it or playing it or planing it from the top down and these guys
are a really nice option to have
in your tool arsenal
these are run files or nib files
they come in a couple of different shapes and grits
they're fairly course
this ones got a contoured bottom side
and this is fine
this is course
they have different applications but they're all great tools to have in their
own right
the course file is perfect for planing runs
a fine tooth file is perfect for something like the dirt nib we're working
on
and one of the convex shapes on the bottom is perfect for contoured shapes
if you don't want to take the corners
now the course file moves a lot of material very fast not necessarily what
we need now with our tiny dirt nib
the contoured guy, well we're dealing with a flat surface so we're not going to
use him either
this is perfect for what we're trying to do
cool thing about it is there's and arrow here that'll tell you which direction you
need to plane
and it goes against
the grain of the teeth
basically what you do
center center up your dirt nib
you can hear it
you can hear it work
and you can see what's happening you can also see the gnarly scratches on either side of
the dirt nib
but it's leveling it, planing it off
Right there I can't even feel it but I can still see a bit of a ring around it
i can't even feel that
so now we're ready for the next step which is a little bit of six hundred
sandpaper
and before I start sanding I'm going to clean this surface off with a bit of water
it just gets any grit or any dust that's fallen into it while you've been working
getting ground down into this pain
got six hundred grit wet
i'm not to use my fingertips i'm not can use my fingers as an interface pat i'm
using a soft lock
wrapping my paper around
that way i know
that a flat surface recreating what i want to be
flat surface. Once I'm satisfied with the six hundred grip and I know because i'm looking
i know i don't see any more divots
I can move up to one thousand
soft foot
don't create finger tips as a matter of fact
here's what i'm talking about
Not good. So we use our interface pad again.
And I keep on going up in stages until i reached twenty five hundred grit or three
thousand grit and then I'm ready for compound and the final buffing
now this is just one small aspect of surface repair on a finished paint job
the painucation color sanding and buffing DVD goes into great detail on
this and
many more procedures so do yourself a favor, go to Eastwood.com
pick up a set a nib files and some other color sending and buffing supplies
and get to work. You'll be winning trophies at the car show in no time.