so stages one to four on our exercise are completed with the first fix so we've
used the technique shown in a previous presentation in order to dress bend and
clip the cables to a wooden surface and we've started already looking at the second fix and
i'm going to show in this presentation the connections for both a one-way and two way
light switch so let's see how the connections are going to look in those so as we look on the table
in front of me with the exception of the one in the top left hand corner all the other switches
are one gang switches in other words there is one switch on the front so they are one gang switches
however until we turn them over and look at the back we won't know whether one gang one way is
one going two ways or one gang intermediate switches so let's turn them over and have a look
so as i turn over the first switch i can see we've got a single common connection
at the top it could be at the bottom so i could turn it around so we've got a common connection
and then we've got l1 what we've got here is a blanking plate i believe the chassis of this one
was probably used as well for a two-way switch we've got a terminating point common and l1 this
is a one-way switch so looking at the front one gang one switch on the front and we turn it over
common and now one it's a one-way switch that's a one-gang one-way switch let's have a look at the
next one again i've got a one gang switch when we turn it over we've got a common termination
and we've got l1 and we've got a hole here so we need to work out whether that has a
terminating screw in it or is part of a blanking system where perhaps this chassis also was used
on a two-way switch so when we turn it up then have a look inside it we can only see
the screw on the left-hand side and there's not one on the right-hand side so this is a one gang
so one switch on the front common through twelve one one way switch
and the third one again is one gang turn it over again we've got three holes this time but we've
got to work out whether it's a one-way switch so we've got common l1 as we turn it on its side we
can see again only one screw and there's actually no mechanism or anything in there so again this is
a one gang one-way light switch so we've got two more switches to look at again both of these are
one gang switches but let's turn them over and see whether they're one way two way or intermediate
switches we turn over this one this time we've got one common connection and we can see we've
got L1 and L2 which are also got screws in them so they're not fake for a one way switch this is
a two-way switch so from common we've got two other positions we can go through the switch
that's a two-way switch so it's a one-gang two-way light switch so look at the second one again
one switch on the front so it must be a one gang switch is it two way we've got a common and two
other terminations haven't called it common this time we call it L1 L2 and L3 this is what we would
think of as a common terminal L1 and L2 that just labeled it slightly different so again this is a
two way switch so from common there is two ways to it so it's a one gang two way lighting switch
our final switch again is a one gang switch when we turn it over this time we've got
four terminating points two at the bottom two at the top they've labeled these L1 L2 L3 and L4
i have seen them enabled L1 L1 L2 L2 but it is an intermediate
switch there is four terminations two at the top and two at the bottom so this is a one gang
switch so we're simulating here the light switch drop for a one game one way using one millimeter
squared twin brown and cpc and we're going to install a one gang one way light switch
taking a knife first in about 15 mil into the box we're going to score round with our knife so just
be careful that we don't go through and actually into the insulating material around the conductors
to lift it up and do a score on the back side as well and using the technique that we've looked at
previously in presentations snip straight down the center leave the cpc generally in the middle take
our knuckles and roll them together once we've got it started we can pull it down just short
of that scored area so we don't want to go all the way down to it just a fraction short of it
peel off the outside mechanical protection and peel it off the other side exposing our conductors
okay a little bit tighter than i thought okay so conduct a length now
i like them to be about 50 to 70 ml longer than the box as we're practicing so if we fold it back
over on itself we can make a cut just there making sure the conductors are long enough
so they're all the same length and they're all at least 50 to 70 ml longer than the box
so now we'll terminate the ends using the technique shown in a previous presentation
about 20 ml down press a lot harder now with the knife scroll all the way around take a pair
of pliers just to remove the insulation around the conductors themselves taking slightly less
than half into the pliers fold it over and then squeeze up the gap so we've doubled it back
hopefully perfectly on itself take the other one about 20 mil down scroll all the way around
reasonably firm turn my pliers hopefully pulls off slightly less than half fold it back on itself and
then close up the gap so our two terminations are doubled over back on themselves ready for
terminating into the switch itself i'm going to concentrate next on the cpc we're going to need
some green and yellow sleeving to identify this so we'll take that down to the required length
and then back on and again i'm going to double this over the cpc in this case is not required
but both the switch and the back box are plastic it's just purely there in case we
change say the front to a metallic light switch making it exposed conductive part 0:05:51.040,1193:02:47.295 then it not
terminate until available switch it doesn't matter which one goes in common on which one
goes in L1 at this stage but once it's in i don't want to see any copper so i don't
want to see any copper out there i want it fully in and screwing into the copper
itself nice and firm down with a screwdriver take the second one and again fully in no
copper showing okay and then screw down into the copper itself and not into the pvc insulation okay
so we've terminated a one gang from common to L1 one way switch simulated with a twin
brown which is one millimeter squared and cpc cable it could have been done in twin and cpc
in which case you would have a brown conductor and one that was blue the blue one would need
to be identified with brown sleeve and if that was the case but we've used twin brown here at college
and we've simulated a one gang one way switch next lighting point is simulating a two-way
lighting point so this case has got a three core and cpc again it's one millimeter squared for us
for a lighting circuit and we're going to install a one gang and on the back we've got common L1 and
L2 so we've got a two-way switch so we're gonna install a one gang two-way switch onto this three
core and cpc cable exactly the same as before we're gonna take our knife i'm gonna strip off the
mechanical protection and exposing our conductors i can cables considerably longer than the box
so we should get our 50 to 70 ml length that i require at college so once again take our knife
scroll round the top sides and back
take the side cutters exactly the same as before snip down the center leave a conductor in the
middle roll our fingers together once we've got it started pulled down to the scored area
pull off the mechanical protection one side pull off the mechanical protection on the other side
okay so we've got our conductors now that are longer than the box if i fold them back
yep i'm happy with the length of those for this this time we've got three core cable colors which
are brown black and gray we're going to use black in our common termination and it doesn't matter
which one goes in L1 and L2 however because these are switching line conductors we need to identify
them correctly and we're going to identify them using brown sleeving so cut off an identifying
strip this stage and put them on if you miss them you've got to go back and put it in afterwards it
means i'm terminating the conductors and again so i've identified those as switching line
conductors exactly the same as before going to terminate the cpc into the back of the box and
then terminate the ends and connect the black in common and the brown and grey and L1 and L2
cpc leaving on next
identifying the conductor double it over slightly less than half
fold it back on itself close up the gap terminal screwdriver into our connection
and then we'll double over the terminations here take our knife press slightly harder
than we did before pull off the outside insulation a little bit there just to tidy up
with all three at the same time it's about 20 mil for me
i know there's all kinds of gadgets out there in industry that can strip cable off a lot quicker
than this we've shown you the skills required when you first start out your journey to become
an electrician and if they make a piece of kit that makes it a lot easier then that's something
we can use in the future we need those basic hand skills to start with so we'll double those over
so all three are doubled of course i've chosen the world's worst pair of pliers
and then finally black one as well so all three are doubled over ready for terminating into our
one gang two-way switch black's the only one that's important for me
black is going to go in common so i'm going to undo that and put it into the common termination
again we don't want to see any copper sticking out so make sure it's fully
inserted into the termination itself and we're screwing into the copper and not the pvc
and it doesn't matter which way round we go now for l1 and l2
so a gray one here fully inserted no copper showing so just put back out
and then finally the brown conductor and we will have terminated a simulation for a two-way
switch so we've done a one game one way in the first part of the presentation
and a one game two way in the second part of the presentation
so there we go one gang black is common identified with brown sleeving got the
two strappers which one is grey which is also identified with brown sleeving because they're
all switching line conductors at some point in the circuit so we've got one gang two-way light switch
terminated there again i'm gonna leave it off so i can inspect the terminations so there we have it
the basic skills required to terminate a one gang one way and a one game two way light switch making
sure our conductors are between 50 and 70mm longer than the box if brown sleeving is required to
identify conductors it's added on our terminations are doubled over securely uh terminated within
the back of the light switch with no copper showing the cpc which isn't required of this
because an insulated switch and insulated box is secured in the back of the patras and is of
equal length to that of the live conductors in there i hope this presentation has been some
help
you