(mechanism clanking)
- Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic,
where I try and solve your bike related problems,
that you leave down there
in the comment section below or alternatively
on all forms of social media, using the hashtag
#ASKGCNTECH
So if you've got something troubling you, let me know.
Right, with no further ado,
let's crack on with the first question this week
that comes in from
Blaz Meznar who says, " Hi wondering if there is any way
to make mechanical cables
on the cockpit look as neat as electrical.
It just looks so good when the cockpit is so clean."
- Right Blaz.
Couple of things you could do here.
Firstly, before you go ahead and put your handlebar tape
on over the bars,
actually root those cables to the both brake and gears,
as closely as possible together.
So like parallel,
and tape them on with some insulation tape.
Now some people like to wrap it fully on.
I just like to give a couple of bits,
and just hold it firmly in place.
That's going to give a neat appearance, really,
of the cables underneath the actual handlebar tape.
But, you say about the front,
it looks a little bit cluttered,
I mean really that's just something you've got to accept,
that you've got four cables there.
You could I guess, heat shrink the cables together as well,
and then perform the cuts of the heat shrink
at the last possible minute so they try and remain
as one big bit, instead of two smaller bits.
But ultimately, you're not going to get that super clean look
that you really desire, I don't think,
unless of course you go to SRAM and eTAP setup,
which is wireless, or course.
Right, now we've got
Chris Seilern who says, "Hi John great videos.
Thanks, I'm a real fan.
- No problem Chris.
I have an Ultegra Di2 with 52-36 chainrings
and an 11-30 cassette.
Unfortunately, it is always slightly noisy in the big ring
and normally quiet in the small ring.
I have tried re-indexing,
(myself and at the LBS) oiling , cleaning etc.
and I've even checked the chain and cassette,
and they look okay.
The front mech does not seem to be touching
the chain either.
Any ideas as to what it might be?
Love this question.
Chris,
I'm about to call you Craig then,
but right name.
So, I've noticed this actually on the latest generations
of Ultegra and on also Dura-Ace.
I've not tried it on the 105 yet.
And I've also asked some pro mechanics
if they've noticed it being ever so slightly noisier
than the previous generations.
And they agreed,
or at least the ones I've asked.
Where as loads of people out there,
don't actually notice a difference, whatsoever.
But I've got a feeling,
it could well be,
because on the shadow style derailuer.
what you've got now,
there's an increased amount of spring tension,
in the cage of the rear neck,
and that, basically, seems to be causing that noise.
I'm pretty sure that's what it is.
It just seems to be something with the jockey lug,
pulling those jockey wheels, and the chain.
I think that's where that noise is coming from,
rather than the actual chain set.
I want people to get involved, actually,
in the comments section down below.
Have they noticed the latest generation of Shimano
is slightly, slightly nosier,
it's not an annoying noise or anything,
it's just a kind of a chain noise.
Is it noisier than the previous one?
Get involved in the comments section down below,
because I'm pretty sure that's what it is,
just that increased tension of the spring.
Next up is
Vishwa Dev who says, " Every time I take a tire
out of the rim to change the inner tube
and put it back,
I find a slight wobble in the tire
when I give it a spin.
Is it because I've not put the tire back on properly,
or is there a technique in which I can make sure
the tire is perfectly inline without the wobble?
I guess it's not properly seated into the rim.
Right, Vishwa.
There isn't really a technique for this.
This sort of problem, I guess you could call it,
has only been around I can bet the last five years.
Sense to be, basically, that the tires
and the rim interfaces have become more suitable
for tubeless tires.
I reckon you've probably got
a tubeless compatible rim, there,
that allows the tires to pop into place.
So, when you're putting that inner tube in,
make sure it's fully inside of the tire
and inflate the inner tube inside of that,
and make sure that your inner tube itself,
is not bulging out between the side wall,
and the actual bead of the tire
and the inner side wall of the rim.
What I like to do, is not go ahead and inflate,
and just hope it pops into place,
but actually try and massage or massage the tire into place,
and get that to actually find its way on the rim correctly,
rather then allowing you to pump away
and... I never liked the big popping or clicking noise.
that the tire makes,
but there's no real fail safe technique I guess,
you could use something..
Some people out there use like washing up liquid
on the wheel, on the inside of the rim,
just to try to help it slide into place,
But then you have to wash it off,
so that that way of course you can break,
your breaks aren't going to work,
because you've got soap on them.
Also you can use talcum powder,
that's something which I put inside sometimes,
to try to help them slide into place,
but give that a go and hopefully,
you won't find it so troublesome going forward.
Next up we've got
Nur Muhhamad Hanif who says, " Hey John,
I'm planning on converting my 2x road bike to a 1x.
The only deraileur with a clutch mechanism Shimano
offer for road bikes, is the Ultegra RX.
I was wondering if the mountain bike rear deraileurs
are cross compatible with the road gruppo parts.
They all have a similar Shadow design,
and have a clutch mechanism,
but for less than half of the price of the Ultegra RX rd.
I was wondering if I could get the same function,
and maybe the performance from the Deore instead."
- Alright love this one, yep possible to do it.
Probab;y give it away really.
Secrets that some people don't want me to give away
but yeah , you get yourself a
Wolf Tooth Tanpan - Wolf Tooth Components
Which goes on to the deraaileur body,
so when your cable goes in your anti cable,
instead of it going all the way,
you put this little roller,
it's a wheel there instead,
and what that does is it adjusts the amount
of cable that your lever is giving,
and it means it works with amazing point rear back.
(smack) Thank me later. Next up is,
Popula who's says, " Hi GCN, my sora R3000 groupset
can shift up the cassette by three gears
but only on the small cogs (11-16)
on the bigger cogs it will only shift two gears.
The third click can be forced by pulling the cable by hand,
Tightening the cable just ruins the indexing."
- Right, (smack) this ones sounds like
it's probably your limit screw.
So it works down at the higher end of the block,
to the 11 to 16. So I reckon you need to turn
the H screw in a way.
Because as your gank through the gears,
the cable tension is becoming....
It's very, very hard to explain this.
The (murmur) gank screw
is pulled through the cable again and just tighten that up.
(sighs) and then it indexes the gears.
It may well work okay.
I don't see any problem why it wouldn't.
What's happened previously,
in the previous steps,
is just trying to explain this in the easiest way possible,
is you are taking up the slack in the cable
and eventually to runs out,
and you don't have any more room for it.
It is very very difficult to explain.
So go on ahead, play with the H screw,
and just adjust the cables, index it.
What you need to consider here too is actually,
It sounds really, really daff
because I know right you thinking self,
but I want to be able to change those three gears,
but how often do you need to do that on your bike?
But I'm a real perfectionist when it comes it,
is something doesn't work properly,
I will faffer and I'll not go to bed,
I will waste so much time trying to solve something.
But you don't really need to ever,
be able to change those 3 gears at once.
But do those steps I've mentioned,
and I reckon it will be sorted for you.
Or alternatively it could well be your mech hanger,
slightly out of line,
and it means that once that cable ,
once the deraileur, works its way over,
its just got more work to do ,
but with the same a amount of cable cord.
Bikes the are not as easy as everyone thinks.
Next up we have got
Paul@ @tankiematelow Sep 24 who says,
"Can I replace my Tiagra Fc=4700 Crankshaft
with a 105 FC-R7000 without issues,
Trek Checkpoint ALR BB86. 5. Thanks"
= Yeah no problems at all mate,
both of them are Shamano and Hollow Tech 2,
go ahead and do it, ikt will work fine.
Next up is
Al who says, " Is it me or are road disc brakes
way more tedious to keep running nicely
as opposite to mtb discs?
Rotor rub , ticking after heavy breaking... Why? Why?
- Okay I suppose one of the reasons that,
Maybe road bikes, disc brakes give you a hard time ,
because that basically the reservoir on the levers,
on the shifters on a road bike,
is a bit smaller then that
on a mountain , bike traditionally,
and what you are asking it to do is the same operation .
It's kind of a scaled down version ,
of what the mountain bike setup is,
but I think we need to lay off disc brakes,
they are not actually that troublesome whatsoever,
I just think as technology
and actual mechanics and the Building ,
off disc brakes on road bike improved as goes on.
They will be without that problem,
Just like mountain bikes disc brakes when they started,
they had their problems and they've gone.
And road bikes are they really (murmur) problems solved?
I can go on-and-on about that.
But I think give them a bit of an easier time out.
The Neon Matt now and ultimate one this week.
TheNeonMatt says" I have some wheels with a worn out braking
surface in the garage , Is it safe for me yo use them"
- Nice question, not really thought about this before.
I wouldn't advise it, the reason being,
if your brakes are worn out ot means,
that the structural integrity of the whole wheel
is not going to be as intended,
so where the spokes are pulling from the rims ,
from that area eyelets,
they then can be under more stress,
then normal leading to a failure of collapse .
And absolutely not something I would ever advise.
What you could do though is
just buy yourself a cheap rear end wheel.
That's what I did many many years ago,
just bought myself a really cheap basic ,
I think it was like e a !0 speed Hubble mat,
I just put turbo trainers tires on that and just used those.
And that was my dedicated turbo wheel,
but don't use something that is basically broken already.
- Right okay. Once and for all,
anything 10 speed and up. Road or mountain bike,
There will be people saying, Yes it dose, I have done it."
That's absolutely fine , I'm sure it is,
but some of us maybe slightly fussu.
I don't know I will leave that one with you,
but what you can get is Wolf Tooth Tanpan
difficult one fpr me to say for some reason.
Again adjust it the actual cable and get way with..
That really is about all I can suggest...
Yes in the past people have done all sorts
trying to root the cable in a different path
of the cable clamp and things to try to get it to work.
But I've been told those WolfTooth things work pretty well.
Right, like I said. If you've got yourself a tech problem,
leave it with me down there in the comment section below.
And I'll do my best to answer it in and upcoming episode.
Remember as well to share this video with your friends.
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