my new pattern cutting series matching the sleeve draft to the bodice block we
made provisional balance marks on the bodice block at various construction
points to match the sleeve crown with the bodice we will be redrafting the
notches of the armhole in general there are no hard and fast rules as to where
you place the balance marks as long as they match up across the seam you can
put them where you like for convenience we use the forearm and back line
positions on the sleeve so we need to match these to the bodice arrays any
balance marks you already have around the armhole firstly measure both seam
lines the bodice armhole and the sleeve crown the difference between the two is
the ease that will be distributed around the top of the sleeve when we set it
into the bodice armhole as a temporary guide mark the ease allowance on the
sleeve head as shown we are going to rotate the sleeve head around the
armhole marking off the balance marks as we go start by aligning the ease guide
mark on the back half of the sleeve with the back Buddhists at the shoulder point
rotate the sleeve down the back arm hole until B on the sleeve meets the armhole
seam mark point B on the bodice see me doing this on paper check the info
button I use my pencil to anchor the sleeve at each position as I rotate at
this point flip the sleeve horizontally the sleeve pattern is now wrong side up
continue to rotate the sleeve down the back armhole the sleeve seam will extend
beyond the back Buddhists make a temporary mark on the sleeve showing the
position of the bodice underarm point slide the sleeve across to the front
bodice lining up the mark you have just made on the sleeve with the front bodice
side seam mark a balance mark on the front bodice
where the sleeve ends this will give you the position of the sleeve seam for
setting in the sleeve now slide the sleeve right across the front ODIs so
that the sleeve front and run point aligns with the balance mark you have
just made rotate the sleeve up the armhole seam the sleeve pattern is still
wrong side up until you get to F mark F on the bodice front flip the sleeves so
that it is right side up again with the F points aligned continue to rotate the
sleeve up the armhole you may or may not find that the curve matches quite well
you should find that the ease mark aligns through the shoulder seam this
will give us our calculated ease the ease will be distributed around the top
of the sleeve when we set the sleeve into the armhole at design-time this
ease may be reduced for tailored garments and will even completely
disappear during pressing it could be increased as a design feature
perhaps turned into a dart or pleat we now have three new Balance marks to help
us with setting in the sleeve you will inevitably need to make adjustments to
the set of your sleeve you may need to rotate the whole sleeve a little towards
the front or towards the back experiment and when you get it right you will have
the basis for all your design projects the basic blocks to complete the set I
will be working on tutorials for the skirt block and the trouser block you
don't need to make different looks for the two-piece sleeve for jackets coats
Raglan sleeve styles etc I prefer to go back to this basic block for everything
coming next more sewing patterns for you to download please subscribe to my
channel to be kept up-to-date with videos and patterns
my pattern cutting playlist is a good place to find videos in this series and
of course please visit my site for the best and easiest PDFs saying patterns
thank you for watching this tutorial