Bentornato alla Gazz--
Mi dispiace.
[in English] I got ahead of myself. Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we're off to bel Italia to see just why Italian men are so stylish.
♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
The world is full of elegant and stylish gentlemen, but most would agree that there's just something
special about the style of Italian men in particular. As just a few examples, we could
look at Marcello Mastroianni, Lino Ieluzzi, and Vittorio
Gassman. But, what makes these men so stylish? Is it that famous Italian confidence or just
all the pizza and vino? We've got some ideas as to why,
so buckle up like you're riding with Gianni Agnelli because, to start, we're going back
thousands of years in history to Ancient Rome. The Great Empire of Rome attempted to cultivate
an image of austerity, but the desire to "flaunt it if you've got it" was still strong. Roman
aristocrats sought out the most luxurious materials from their vast empire, bedecking
themselves in silks from the Far East, linen from Egypt, and even tela aurea that was literally
spun from gold.
Aurum nostrum non est aurum vulgi! (Our gold is not fool's gold!)
And even after Rome fell, imperial cities like Ravenna served as important conduits
to the Byzantine Empire in the East. And the high standards of dress and style cultivated
by the Romans were also adopted by those who visited or settled in the Italian Peninsula.
As
the Middle Ages progressed, maritime states built trade empires that funneled the treasures
of the Near and Far East, including fine fabrics into Europe. The Italian states grew rich
and prosperous;
influencing fashion across the continent and supplying those fashions as well with the
region of Veneto becoming an important center for velvet production, Tuscany supplying high-quality
leather, and silk-making flourishing all across Italy.
This last, of course, happened while Roger II of Sicily captured and brought back silkworms
while on crusade in 1147. This fashionable splendor only increased with the Renaissance
as the great Italian states vied to outmaneuver and outdress each other in a never-ending
struggle for political, economic, and sartorial supremacy.
Prominent contenders included the Medici family of Florence, which sought to cement its dynastic
power through sumptuous displays of wealth, the Papal Court in Rome, which telegraphed
the might of the papacy with exhibitions of fine raiment, and the Compagnie della Calza
or Stocking Leagues of the Republic of Venice, social clubs in which young aristocrats competed
to outshine each other with incredible outfits typified by their colored leggings. Later
in the Early Modern Period,
Italy found itself eclipsed both in power and in fashion by the rising strength of England,
France,
Spain, and Portugal. However, Italian sartorial production continued unabated and, in the
18th and 19th centuries, Italian clothing was renowned for its luxurious fabrics, quality
construction,
and impeccable craftsmanship. This would cement clothing as an important cultural touchstone
in Italy. As another example, just check out all of the well-dressed men on the streets
of Naples in 1929.
While most Italian clothing goods produced in the 19th and early 20th centuries were
sold locally,
some achieved international renown. Borsalino, for instance, was producing about two million
hats every year prior to World War I. During the Fascist Period, Benito Mussolini applied
a nationalist fervor to fashion, encouraging the Italian people to reject foreign styles
and embrace their local sartorial traditions. But, the massive devastation wrought upon
the country by World War II crippled the Italian economy,
including clothing production. From these ashes,
however, the modern Italian fashion industry would rise like a phoenix with its roots firmly
planted in Italy's stylish history. After World War II, the Italian people began the
process of rebuilding their country. After suffering through years of depression, in
the 1950s, Italy experienced an economic miracle known as "Il Boom." This was
buoyed by cheap labor, a central geographic location in Europe, and foreign investment.
Clothing production would play a considerable role in this revival because Italy could leverage
a massive clothing production industry that was more cost effective than its competitors
in the UK or France. So, once again, Italy had the opportunity to share the clothing
and styles that it had been perfecting for centuries with the rest of the world. Wow!
Those historic costumes are a little outside of our usual time period, but we're definitely
loving those suits. Tuscan entrepreneur Giovanni Battista
Giorgini took the first step when he put on a high fashion show at the Villa Torrigiani
in 1951. Giorgini primarily invited American fashion retailers and critics, hoping to impress
them with what Italy had to offer. In short,
his plan worked and, soon, Italian fashions were again in demand all across the globe.
But, the world wasn't just entranced with Italian quality as Italian style was on display,
too.
Founded in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fontticoli and Gaetano Savini, the House of Brioni hosted
what is believed to be the first modern men's fashion show in the Sala Bianca of the Palazzo
Pitti
in Florence in 1952. This show emphasized not only the quality of the wares, but also
things like the soft shoulder, trim lines, and elegant appeal of what was on display.
Other Italian fashion houses would soon follow in Brioni's footsteps in taking proactive
measures to market themselves to foreign investors and audiences. Many of these houses had already
been around for decades, but they came to new prominence during this time. For example,
Loro Piana had been selling wool in the Italian Piedmont since the early 19th century, but
their focus on luxury fabrics really took off in the mid-20th century. Meanwhile,
the Isaia family had been tailors for decades before opening their famous factory in Casanova
in 1957. And Gucci founder, Guccio Gucci, opened his store in 1921, but the brand really
took off in the 1950s, which saw the release of their famous loafer.
But, some fashion houses were also being newly established, like when Valentino Garavani
left a promising career in France to open the House of Valentino in Rome in 1960. At
this time, the Italian fashion world was centered around Florence, which would certainly have
made the Medici family very happy. Astrong emphasis was placed on bespoke,
high-quality garments made by hand, which was typical of the Italian approach to clothing.
Consumers were enamored with the highly-personalized and bold styling of these clothes, which helped
to cement the reputation of Italian style as centered around both high-quality materials
and self-expression. This might be why so many international celebrities were drawn
to Italian style, and why international audiences were also struck by the style of Italian actors.
Of course, there were some misses sprinkled in - like this convertible suit jacket featuring
swappable, zippered lapels from 1960. Well, they can't all be winners. Il Boom also fostered
extensive cultural exchange as Italian style was codified relative to and also influenced
by outside sources. Taking a quick example from neckwear, the Continental tie became
a popular fad in 1960s America; partly because it was associated with the glitzy Italian
style.
At the same time, meanwhile, Italians were crazy for the Anglo-American string tie, worn
here by Bruno Filippini in 1964. This period of Italian fashion would prove to be extremely
influential in shaping the coming generation of Italian innovators. It's when fashion titan
Giorgio Armani got his start working at a Milan department store in 1957, before going
on to start his own fashion brand in 1975. By the 1970s, Italy was again recognized as
one of the fashion capitals of the world. This is perhaps best indicated by the regularization
of a trade show in Florence that we now know as "Pitti Uomo"
in 1972. To this day, of course Pitti Uomo showcases
the best of the best of Italian style. This period also saw the establishment of many
iconic Italian fashion houses such as Versace and Brunello Cucinelli, both founded in 1978.
By this time, the fashion world in Italy was shifting toward
Milan, where it was easier to produce more massive quantities of Italian-made garments
on the larger scale that international demand necessitated. Milan had also played host to
Settimana della Moda or Fashion Week since 1958. The rise of the great fashion houses
saw historic Italian style put on display to the world to rival even the influence of
the Roman Empire.
And the Italian appreciation for quality materials and personal flair quickly became a selling
point for a gargantuan industry. Being home to so many iconic fashion businesses certainly
helped Italians gain a reputation for being stylish, but it should be stressed that these
fashion houses were just as often an expression rather than a progenitor of Italian styles.
Since we've now brought our story up to the modern day, let's talk about what constitutes
"contemporary Italian style."
After all, we've definitely moved past togas and striped hoes. Most people traced the origins
of the Italian suit back to the Neapolitan tailor Vincenzo Attolini who, in the 1930s,
deconstructed British suits to have less padding and a slimmer profile and fabrics more suited
to the Southern Mediterranean climate. But, in fact, the Neapolitan suit with its unpadded
natural shoulders, roped detailing, patch pockets, and very trim silhouette is simply
the most famous and distinctive of Italian suit styles. Just like Attolini redesigned
a British suit to suit Naples, each region of Italy has its own distinct clothing styles
that grapple with the realities of their own culture, climate,
and class. Prominent examples would include the Roman style, which follows the general
structure of a Neapolitan suit but with more sedate detailing, the Milanese style with
its strong, extended shoulder, and the Florentine style, which combines the breadth of a Milanese
suit with a more rounded overall silhouette. Italian suits have so much regional variety
because clothing production in Italy was, for a long time, predicated on region. After
all, Italy wasn't a unified country until the middle of the 19th century. Historically,
unique styles, fabrics, and designs flourished in each of Italy's many regions, fostering
a sense of personal identity to how one dressed in each of these regions. This personal identity
and, indeed, pride was helped along, as always, by the Italian devotion to quality materials.
Italian suits are known for their reliance on luxurious materials like linen and silk
and lightweight wools like Super 100s and cashmere. Of course, it's convenient that
both historically and today many of these materials are made in Italy. But, even with
that benefit,
a recent study found that Italians spend more per month on their clothing than anyone else
in Europe. Interestingly, Germany came in second place here, but I would bet most of
that is just Raphael.
[da bum tss]
Broader Italian culture has also influenced the development of Italian style. For example,
the concept of sprezzatura was first defined by 16th century Italian diplomat Baldassare
Castiglione, who defined it as a nonchalance that concealed every artifice and made every
action seem effortless and natural. Not only did this ideal influence the ways in which
Italians carry themselves in daily life,
but it also influenced their sense of style, promoting an approach to clothing that balanced
precision and attention to detail with a relaxed attitude and a casual spirit. This contrast
between excess and ease is also typified by the passeggiata,
a leisurely stroll taken in the evening to relax after a long day, but also for Italians
to show off their finery and see what their neighbors are wearing. Of course, showing
off is something that many people associate with Italian fashion,
especially when considering the exuberant displays you're likely to see at Pitti Uomo.
But,
in reality, Italian style expresses itself in the sedate and the serene just as often
as it does in the flashy and fashionable. Many cultures have a dandy aesthetic, of course,
and while Italy's is famous, it's just one of the many looks that exist on the peninsula
and just one part of what makes Italian style special. Remember that Italian style developed
regionally and allows for personal expression and pride through quality materials and varied
cuts. As an example here, compare the aristocratic bearing of Luchino Visconti to the casual
charm of Gianni Morandi. Note how Morandi captures the eternally cool class of Italians
with... uh, milk? I guess good bones and teeth are essential.
So, we'll close today by saying that it would have been very easy to build this video around
stereotypes about Italian men - like the fact that they're bold, flashy, or outspoken.
[scene from "GoodFellas"] Jimmy: "I don't give a f*** whose name it's
on."
Jimmy: "Are you stupid or what? Did you hear what I said?"
Jimmy: "Don't buy anything. Don't get anything. Nothing big."
Jimmy: "Did you hear what I said? What's the matter with you?:
But, we've found that looking beyond the stereotypes can actually be much
more enlightening, and we hope that you have, too. Ultimately, the
exceptionalism of Italian style can't be attributed just to that famous Italian confidence
alone. We feel that it's more correct to say that Italians can feel confident in their
clothes because of the remarkable legacy that those clothes entail.
E così abbiamo finito!
Did we miss any reasons that you feel make Italians so stylish?
We'd especially like to hear on this front from i nostri amici Italiani.
Now, before I go pour myself a big glass of vino to recover from all of those Italian
pronunciations, let's look at my outfit. In today's video, I've attempted to wear as many
garments as I could that were either directly made in Italy or otherwise Italian-inspired.
My reddish-brown sport coat in a rustic weave was made by the company Hawes & Curtis, but
the fabric itself in wool
comes from the mill of Marzotto in Northern Italy. Meanwhile, my plain white dress shirt
was made by Giovanni Rosmini, and it features a spread collar typical of Italian style.
I suppose, if I really wanted to go the extra mile, I could probably undo a few more shirt
buttons. My white trousers are from Brooks Brothers, but I wore them to keep up the light
and summery feel. Meanwhile, my belt is in plain medium brown and it harmonizes well
with my suede loafers made by Velasca, another Italian brand. We've reviewed Velasca shoes
in-depth and you can find that video here. The rest of my accessories today are all from
Fort Belvedere, including our two-tone solid socks in burgundy and white, my mini carnation
boutonniere in white and magenta, and my white pocket square in Italian linen, featuring
a P monogram. To reinforce the casual feel of today's outfit. I've also elected to leave
the product out of my hair and, of course, you can find all of the Fort Belvedere accessories
I'm wearing in today's video, along with a wide array of others, by visiting
the Fort Belvedere shop here.
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