Welcome to Shikoku on one of the hottest days of the summer!
Japan is always trying to find ways to improve life.
Take it to another level!
That could include Technology, Accomodation,
Mascots, Entertainment
Even food.
This time I'm in Zentsuji in Kagawa Prefecture
to try a favorite food of mine that has evolved
to that next level,
The square watermelon of Zentsuji
Before we head to the farm and warehouse,
Let's take a look at those watermelons on sale in Tokyo
The square watermelon is like a piece of treasure,
reflected in its shape and its price
which can be as high as this even more abroad.
When you have a square watermelon, you want to show it off.
Sometimes they're not even for sale.
When they are, they are around 18 to 20,000 yen in Tokyo.
This famous fruit stand in Shinjuku,
always has some unique fruit on sale.
And there it is,
for 20,000 yen.
What makes these watermelons so valuable?
Here are some facts:
They can last up until 6 months
because they are harvested unriped.
They are ornamental.
meant for display, not dessert.
Zentsuji grows only 200 of them a year,
so they're rare
The average price is 10,000 to 20,000 yen each.
although its rarity can affect the market price.
and they are made, only in Zentsuji,
legally.
So where is Zentsuji?
We have to travel to the smallest of Japan's 4 main islands.
Shikoku
Just outside the City of Takamatsu lies Zentsuji
in Kagawa prefecture.
Situated on the 88 temple Shikoku pilgrimage route.
Population 34,000 people.
It's a green area surrounded by hills.
and the square watermelons are grown right down there.
Zentsuji isn't Kyoto or Tokyo
but it sure has some things to see and do.
It's a peaceful city.
That's Zentsuji temple over there.
Founded in 813.
The 5 story pagoda is listed as an
important cultural property of Japan.
It sure looks it.
There is a basement in the temple
where you can walk in the dark.
Great for clearing your mind
until you have to feel your way out.
Nearby is a small temple dedicated to child bearing
and breast feeding
Kagawa has some of the best Udon noodles in japan.
and Zentsuji is loaded with self - serve Sanuki Udon restaurants.
Cool down from your pilgrimage with some gold icecream.
Want something harder?
Try Katapan.
120 years of history.
This confectionary shop
boasts the hardest bread in the world.
The square watermelon adventure starts in the watermelon field
where Yamashita-san shows me how they are grown.
Not all of the watermelons here are grown into cubes.
It doesn't take long before you find one.
When a watermelon gets to a size,
the best ones are put into the box
which the farmers have been using for many years
You can see the stem popping out
and the box stabilized on a wooden plank.
Balance and placement are critical.
Here's the stem on the outside.
It's not easy to make a square watermelon,
New farmers have a tough time of it.
Zentsuji normally grows 200 annually.
but on bad years, it can yield as few as 70.
If not beautiful, not for sale.
Wow... Do your best.
Each one has to be perfect.
Every year, Zentsuji farmers get a little better at making them.
Thanks.
They evolve.
The finished square watermelons are taken
to a cooperative warehouse for packaging.
and distributed typically starting at the end of June.
This was the second harvest day in July
so yields were lower
Zentsuji farmers do all the packaging themselves.
All of them seniors with more energy
than those half their age.
The sticker is the official seal for the square watermelon.
A registered trademark.
The square watermelon fits perfectly in the 18 cm box.
A guide for decorating it with a ribbon is enclosed.
When completed, it looks like this.
A fork lift carries each farmers' watermelons
to be taped up.
Today's square watermelon processing took just a little over an hour
The watermelons are stored in this chilled warehouse
which reminded me of a bank vault.
These watermelons have a lot of value.
3, 4, 5 times more than a normal watermelon.
A happy Bon Voyage to those beautiful green cubes.
Destination, somewhere else.
What's the deal with these square watermelons?
I asked Yamashita-san for the story
It was his father who originally tried this out
over 45 years ago
When he couldn't manage the square watermelon,
and no one at the local committee raised their hand to take over,
his son took responsibility,
continuing his father's legacy.
Now they're world famous,
and a big part of Zentsuji identity.
Why don't people eat square watermelons?
The stripes on this watermelon are not straight.
so it's perfect for a test
Yamashita-san's wife goes for a center cut
Let's see what's inside.
It's only partially pink.
The orange and yellow part exposed as unriped.
It lies flat on the cutting board.
The Yamashitas don't seem impressed with the taste.
but that's to be expected
I just can't get over the angle.
right here.
The fact that it's square. You never see anything...
like this.
Time for a quick taste test
It's not sweet,
It's not...it's not bad
It tastes,
Waterly....kind of like a...ah...
a squash.
Certainly not sweet
and definitely not like any watermelon I've ever tasted before
but it's pretty amazing to look at.
isn't it?
The Japanese square watermelon
certainly is creative and unique
But there is more to it than that
What we see as food, can also be seen as art,
certainly nothing new in Japan
where everyday items always find a way to evolve
to the next level
and in Zentsuji, that means these
Beautiful, and very much worth it if you have the cash,
square watermelons