Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette and today we discuss the paletot double-breasted
overcoat that should be part of every man's wardrobe.
In detail, we discuss what the paletot is, its history, the characteristics, and how
you can wear it well.
If you're a longtime reader of the Gentleman's Gazette, you know that we have dedicated articles
to overcoats and so we decided to add corresponding videos.
If you want to check out the old series, head over to our website here.
The term paletot is derived from the Roman word “Palla” which was a Roman great coat.
Later, the Spanish invented an overcoat called palletoque which was similar to a frock coat
and had vertical seams.
During the 18th century, the French developed the word paletot as an umbrella term for all
kinds of overcoats and top coats.
In the 19th century, the paletot was an overcoat with some form of waist suppression, sometimes
more and sometimes less, but eventually it evolved
into a term for any kind of overcoat worn in town.
Generally, it was closer fitting to the body than many other overcoats which meant it could
be worn without a jacket or waistcoat underneath.
It was sometimes fastened by a fly and the buttons could reach all the way down to the
hem, that's definitely not a style you see anymore today.
Generally, a paletot had a flat back that means no belt, no pleats, no folds or vertical
seams.
Occasionally, you see a gentleman with a paletot with a back slit but that was generally quite
short.
About the turn of the 20th century, the British considered the paletot to be any kind of fitted
waist suppressed overcoat or top coat.
The Americans further stipulated that it was about ankle length and it had a flared skirt
or bottom.
In 1920s, the Chesterfield overcoat became more popular and it had a single-breasted
fly front, to learn more about that garment, please check out the guide here.
At around that time, it became more popular to use the word paletot only for double-breasted
overcoats so there was a clear distinction to a Chesterfield which was single-breasted.
So when we use the term paletot, we always mean a double-breasted overcoat with some
waist suppression and a peak lapel.
So what are hallmarks of a paletot?
Typically, you have six buttons and double-breasted configuration meaning a six two so you have
six buttons two closing buttons and the top ones are typically spaced wider apart.
That being said, you can also find paletots that are in a four one button configuration
with just four buttons and one closing buttons but again, the top row of buttons is spaced
further apart.
The paletot resembles the look of the old school frock coat which is not really worn
anymore today unless you are really into reenactment.
Frock coats, particularly body coats, they fit much closer to the body than the paletot
and they have different seams including vertical seams and buttons in the back.
In the 30s you can sometimes see a paletot with a waist seam in the front but not in
the back.
In order to create a fitted silhouette, a paletot always needs side seams or darts that
bring in silhouette on the sides so it's very flattering in an hourglass shape.
The number of pockets on a paletot can vary but typically, you see two flap pockets on
either side sometimes they're slightly angled for a more debonair or avant-garde look.
If any of this terminology in terms of pockets, lapels, buttons, or anything else is new to
you, I suggest you check out our guides in suit lingo which explain all the differences
in details.
Now in terms of color choices, a paletot typically comes in darker colors such as Navy or grey
but you could also make it in green yellow or red.
Likewise, the length is not set in stone and typically, everything is considered to be
a paletot that is more than knee long and to about ankle length.
That being said, in this day and age, it probably looks best to have something that just reaches
slightly below the knee, otherwise, it looks more dated.
If you decide to go with a bespoke paletot, you can decide how wide the lapels are, how
high the buttoning point is, how big the pockets are, and anything else that you want to have
in your overcoat.
That being said, one of my favorite features is a contrasting velvet collar because it
really changes the entire look and feel of the overcoat.
Velvet sparkles differently in the light so it's not just the collar that sets it apart
but also the texture of the fabric.
So why do we think every man should have a paletot in their wardrobe?
Basically, it is a simple overcoat and if you have it in a dark navy color, you can
wear it to any kind of business event, you can wear it for a funeral, as well as weddings,
or black tie or even white tie events.
Yes it's navy and not quite black but in an evening setting, it works just fine and it's
just one coat that has the widest use case scenario.
So if you don't have a lot of money for overcoats, I suggest you invest in a paletot first because
you could wear it all the way from your formal occasions down to more casual occasions.
In a plain color, it works with all kinds of pattern suits such as houndstooth, small
checks, as well as pinstripes.
On the flipside, if you wear a lot of solid suits, I suggest you invest in a slightly
textured paletot such as this one here, which contains calls of grey, black, and blue in
a very small pattern so from afar, it looks more like a solid grey overcoat but if you
come up closer, you'll see that it's slightly different and it sets off the solid plain
texture of your suits.
That being said, I could also wear this on top of a stroller suit,
for example, or a morning coat ensemble.
One way to even enhance the use case scenario of your navy paletot is to add a detachable
fur collar because that way, it's even more evening appropriate and it keeps you a lot
warmer even during very cold winters.
If you add a fur collar to any overcoat including a paletot, you really change the look dramatically
and it almost looks like an entirely new garment.
Because the paletot is double-breasted, you get two layers in front of your chest which
keeps you warmer in the winter.
If you wear a lot of classic casual garments such as cardigans or maybe tweed coats, I
suggest to go with a paletot with a textured fabric because that way, it can be easily
worn with any kind of tweed coat.
The paletot today still has a plain back which is ode to the town heritage.
Overall , it is a very classic simple and sophisticated overcoat that will never disappoint.
Especially if you're starting out, I think it's a great choice and you can always add
coarser tweed overcoats later on but in the beginning, it makes sense to have one overcoat
that works for you in many occasions.
For example here I'm pairing a paletot with a classic pinstripe suit in navy and black
Oxfords.
Alternatively, I could also wear it with a grey flannel suit or a Glen check flannel
suit.
Of course, I could also wear it with a gray tweed suit, maybe green slacks or chinos.
It goes without saying that any type of gray suit or blue suit would work well with this
overcoat as well because it has the colors of blue black and gray incorporated into the
fabric.
To keep it muted, you'd wear it with black gloves such as these ones from Fort Belvedere
with contrasting red elements that pick up the color of my scarf.
Alternatively, you could go with grey gloves or in a lighter gray and lamb nappa or maybe
something in peccary or you could maybe opt for something in burgundy or chamois yellow,
it's just a little bolder.
Likewise, I think a pair of green gloves could also look great with this overcoat.
In terms of scarves, the sky really is the limit here.
You could wear it with a herringbone scarf in either yellow or orange.
I picked a double sided scarf with a silk wool blend that has micro patterns printed
on it but it could also work with Paisleys and because you have this kind of dark background,
lighter colors work really well in scarves.
Of course, I could also wear a lighter silk scarf for example and maybe a black fedora
or a grey Fedora that picks up the colors in the overcoat.
Back in the day, a snap brim hat wouldn't have been quite the right hat for town wear
instead people would have worn Homburg hats.
Today though, if you wear a hat, you're already more formally dressed than 99.9% of the other
people out there so it works together.
In conclusion, the paletot is a very versatile overcoat that has stood the test of time and
you will be able to wear it many years from now without any alterations or changes.
On top of that, it can be combined with most everything from formal wear down to casual
wear and you will always cut a good figure in it.
Typically made of wool or cashmere or blends thereof, it usually keeps you warm especially
because it has double layers over your chest area.
What do you think of the paletot coat and what items would you wear with it?
Please share with us in the comments below and if you enjoyed this video please give
us a thumbs up subscribe to our Channel and check out our other series about overcoats
in the winter as well as suits and anything else pertaining to classic men's wardrobe.
in today's video I am wearing the classic overcoat shape with a black velvet collar
and a thicker wool fabric in black gray and blue.
it was made by Chester Barrie in England and I found it vintage for about a hundred dollars.
all I had to do was to let the sleeves out because it was originally too short I have
had this overcoat for about eight years and it served me very well here I combined it
with a double-breasted pinstripe suit from Ralph Lauren in Navy and I have black Oxfords
with a half broguing cap toe medallion and my tie is yellow and because of that I picked
yellow and navy socks so they tie the shoes together with the pants as well as the tie
my gloves I opted for the black peccary gloves from Fort Belvedere which are cashmere lined
and have red X and stitching and colors in between the fingers so it works well with
my black velvet collar as well as the fabric and the kind of
Burgundy scarf I'm wearing here you can find the scarf the socks and the gloves in our
shop here