Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com, and look what we have here: it's a 2008 Yamaha
R6 motor.
Where's the rest of the machine?
Well, it really doesn't exist because we actually bought this used and I'm going to go through
the process of completely pulling it apart.
Now what's that going to involve?
Well, pulling the head off, checking the cylinders, and actually splitting the crankcase, and
then putting it all back together replacing any parts that may be worn out or damaged.
Because honestly, we know nothing about this engine.
So that's why we're going to pull it down.
So if you're ready, I'll go grab my toolbox and we'll get started.
Alright guys, before we get started a few things we need to go over.
This is actually going to be a skill level three, so you need to bring your A-game.
This is going to be pretty intense.
It's not just tearing apart the motor.
You need to do it in an organized fashion.
You need to label everything, need to put it in ziplock bags, because when it comes
time to put it back together, that's when it's really going to pay off.
So, what tools are you going to need to pull this off?
Not really that intense, Yamaha keeps it down to a minimum.
As far as sockets you just need to make sure you've got a basic range from eight up to
about 19.
Except for this guy: it's a 36mm, so you're going to have to go pick up one of those.
Other than that, you need to have a few Allens.
A 5, a 6, and an 8.
Other than that just an oil filter wrench and most importantly you want to make sure
you have a T30, because there's a couple of bolts on the output shaft of the transmission.
They're not Allens, they're going to be this little star configuration-- it's called a
Torx, so you want to make sure you have one of those.
Other than that just a decent ratchet, a few different extensions.
A pick tool, a magnet comes in handy, a 10mm wrench, and you're also going to need a mark-sol.
Other than that a couple of pairs of pliers, what I call a soft-blow hammer, and then just
a flat-blade screwdriver.
And like I said, plenty of zip-loc bags to keep all of this stuff organized.
One other tool that I do want to mention is all the diagrams that we have available at
partzilla.com.
They basically give you a layout of what you're trying to accomplish.
Shows how it goes together, and that'll make it a lot easier to take it apart and then
put it back together later.
So, check those out as we go along.
It'll make a lot more sense to you.
So if you're ready, let's get started.
Alright guys, I don't know if this thing was shipped with oil in it or not.
It's not supposed to be but let's go ahead and pop the drain plug and see if there's
anything left in there.
Plus, if it does have any oil in there, I want to look at the condition of it when it
comes out.
That ought to give me an indication as to whether or not there is a problem.
Alright, well it looks like the shipping company did what they were supposed to do, so there's
no oil in here, which is a good thing.
So, we can go ahead and proceed forward.
Alright, step one, let's go ahead and get this valve cover off, then we're going to
pull this cover right here and that actually has the timing marks where we can bring the
motor around to top dead center.
And as I've said probably a hundred times, I love using these little impact drivers to
pull things apart, but do not use them to put things back together.
you will be sorry if you do.
It does make quick work of sections like this.
The other thing we're going to need to go ahead and do is, there are going to be a whole
lot of nuts and bolts involved on this teardown.
So, it all seems real simple right now, but I guarantee you when you've got everything
spread all over God's creation, you're not going to remember where it all goes.
So, we need to go ahead and get some of our ziploc bags and start tagging each section
that we pull apart-- starting with the valve cover.
Just kinda make a mental note where each one of these little brackets are.
If not you'll have to come back and re-watch the video to see where they went.
It's actually called the pickup rotor cover.
There she comes.
And there's your p[pickup right there.
Alright we're getting ready to bring her around to top dead center, but the spark plugs are
still in it, so let's go ahead and get those pulled that way it'll be much easier to turn
it over.
Looks like this one was burning pretty clean.
all those look good, nice and even.
Alright, we're going to bring it around to top dead center and there's two things that
we're going to look for.
One, this mark right here is going to line up with where the crankcase meets together.
You can't really see it but I can, that little line is right there.
The other thing that's going to signify it being at top dead center on the compression
stroke is that the camshaft lobes are going to be facing up.
So, let's bring that around turning it clockwise.
Alright with that set to top dead center, let's go ahead and start getting those cams
out.
And that begins by getting the tensioner off.
Now we can go ahead and take off the caps.
If you'll notice, they've got each one of them already labeled for you either on the
intake or the exhaust side.
What we want to do is kinda bring it off in a sequence, kinda keeping them level because
we don't want to create too much of a bind and potentially break one of the camshafts
because these things are extremely hard but that also makes them very brittle.
So we need to be careful of that.
So this section out toward the end where it's just a sink point, we can go ahead and take
those all the way off because there's no pressure on either side of that particular bearing
surface.
And they also if you look carefully have little arrows that face toward the gear side so it
makes it more difficult to actually end up doing it backwards or something like that.
So kudos for Yamaha for those points.
Alright, initial impressions, this motor looks to be in pretty good shape so far, and all
the cam surfaces: the lobes, and then the bearing surfaces if you want to call them
that all look really clean.
So when they said this was about an 8,000 mile engine, I believe it, but we're still
going to go all the way through it.
Alright, when you're removing the head bolts, of course there's a certain sequence that
you need to go through and we want to do this a half-a-turn at a time until they get loose,
and I've got them marked just on the top of the head.
It's the same for the tightening.
What we're going to do is half-a-turn on each one.
Before we lift the head off I'm going to go ahead and lake out the chain guides.
Not too bad.
That actually looks really, really good.
On two and three you can still see a little of the crosshatch and the hone in the bore.
Alright, well let's go take a look at the head.
What I'd looked at earlier were the conditions of the valves-- or at least the stems.
I mean we're going to break the head all the way down, it's like I said we're going to
take it to a place called Star Racing, where they're going to do a multi-angle valve job
as well as massage the ports just a little bit.
Alright, we are actually going to have a bunch of head work done on this like I said, but
I still would like to have things go back in the same position they were in when they
were taken out.
So these tappets or buckets, they will be reused so I want to go ahead and number those
so I can at least get them back in the same position.
Are my shims going to change?
Well, yeah.
The chances are all of them are going to have to be redone.
But I still want the bucket carriers or the shim carriers to end up in the same bore that
they came out of so I'm going to go ahead and number those.
And since they are pretty much just loose in there now, let's go ahead and take them
out.
See the actual shim itself is still in the bucket.
Alright, let's go ahead and get the clutch cover off and take the clutch apart itself.
Need to get that dipstick out of the way because it catches on that bottom edge.
Alright, there we go.
AS you're removing these, you kind of want to make it cris-crossed pattern: loosen them
up just a little at a time.
Alright, that's got most of the pressure off.
So we'll go ahead and take them all out.
Alright guys when you're pulling these apart, at the very bottom there's an oval-shaped
washer.
So you want to make sure you don't lose any of those because I actually dropped one while
I was doing this.
While we're on this side let's go ahead and pull the clutch pack out.
Alright, let's get the main bolt off of that clutch basket.
Got our holder in place.
Alright, we've got the clutch pack out of it, but to actually get the basket out we
need to get the chain off, which is actually down at the oil pump.
So, the water pump needs to come off, then I need to put I guess you'd call it the oil
pan-- I need to get it removed, then we can remove the chain and this entire section can
come off.
Once you get those two main bolts on the front of the pump housing, then you've got a couple
of hose clamps left around the front of the engine and the whole assembly will come right
off.
As you're doing this, they hid one right down in there.
So, don't forget that one.
The oil pan usually tells the tale.
You can drain the oil but that doesn't get you to everything.
The oil pan, if it's got a bunch of sludge in it, it'll tell you that it hasn't been
maintained very well at all.
This one, it really doesn't get much better than this.
I mean that is pretty much perfect.
There's no sludge anywhere, so this engine was in really good shape.
Making me feel good the further we go.
With our oil pan off, we can go ahead and get to the oil pump itself.
Get this oil tube out.
Get these-- it looks like three 10mm bolts that hold the oil pump in as well as this
little pickup tube.
Now with the dowels out, we can shift it over, tilt it over a little bit, and then kick the
chain off.
And then out comes your pump.
Alright, before you can get the clutch basket to release, you have to rotate the crank to
where it clears that counterbalance and the connector rod.
Once you've done that, then she can lift out.
and there's our oil pump chain.
Go ahead and lift our these roller bearings, and these different washers.
Make sure you keep them all together because it's going to be very important that they
go back in the right order.
You got that small one, flat, this, and then the roller bearing.
Alright, let's go ahead and get the starter off.
That starter has just a couple of 8mms on it.
Alright, now lets' bring it up and get the stator off.
Let's get this cracked cover off, which we're not going to reuse.
Several 5mms all the way around.
Careful, don't let the magnets pinch your fingers here.
There she is.
Let's go ahead and get this intermediate gear out.
Alright we're removing what they call the oil cooler.
A little inside tip here: if you're rebuilding a clutch that had completely failed-- in other
words all the fiber had come off the disk or been burned off the plates themselves,
you want to open this up and flush it out.
Because basically there's a bunch of little passages in here and if they get gummed up,
it's going to starve the engine for oil.
I've seen it happen.
A guy replaced his clutch, put it back together, didn't clean this out, and it fried the engine
so, just a little inside knowledge there.
Alright, let's go ahead and get the pickup coil here.
But we'll also get the timing chain out of the way.
Rotate it up, put a support through here, disconnect this lower bracket for the engine
and then we're going to pull out all these bolts a quarter turn at a time and we're going
to split the cases.
As you will see on this diagram, there are a bunch of bolts we have to take out a quarter-turn
at a time.
So, if you would reference this diagram and follow me around as we get these things loosened
up.
Number one is right there, so let's go.
Alright, they're all basically loose now, so it's time to go ahead and zip them out.
There she is.
Alright, initial inspection all the gears look great.
I don't see any teeth missing, anything like that or irregular wear.
All of it looks really good.
the bearing surfaces, at least on the mains looks good.
So let's get one of those pistons out and take a look at it.
Alright a couple of 10mms to get this end cap off.
About a quarter-turn each.
Alright, a little bit of wear, nothing substantial.
all the surfaces look good, and the pistons are actually in fantastic shape.
But, I want to let ya'll in on a little secret: these are easily reusable.
I'm not going to reuse them.
It seems the guys over at Wiseco heard about our little project, and they decided they
wanted to get involved.
So they are sending us one of their 636 kits.
So what are we going to do?
We're going to tear this down all the way, actually send off the block, have it bored,
then we have to have it re-plated and then we're going to put it all back together.
When you're pulling these out, you might want to take note that I had numbers on this side
of the connecting rod.
That'll give you a reference point back towards the transmission as to which way they go.
Alright guys, as I'm taking this apart, I'm actually going to number each one of the bearings.
I plan on using or reusing these bearings.
The cylinders are actually in fantastic shape.
You can still see the crosshatch, but that's not going to matter now, is it?
Alright, let's get that shift shaft out of there.
It starts by pulling off this circlip.
Rotate it up so ya'll can see what I'm doing a little bit.
That's about as far as I can go.
Alright, just want to release this spring, and all of that comes out together.
There's also a washer on this side, so make sure you keep up with it.
Alright, it looks like we've got a couple of plates that are holding our shift drum
cassette and then our main gears and that'll just about be it.
Alright careful, there's a spring here on the backside of this plate.
So go ahead and unbolt that main shaft.
This one is a T30.
Alright, to remove this what they call main axle, you need to get a couple of 6mm bolts.
and they actually screw in here and here and act as a puller.
Just keep going back and forth evenly.
Now the bolts you're doing this with, make sure they're not used anywhere on the engine
itself because it's kind of destroying the threads at the very end.
There we go.
So these were just a couple I had laying around.
Well alright guys, there you have it.
One 2008 Yamaha R6 torn all the way down to the crankshaft.
So, what's next?
Well, like I said we're going to send off the head to Star Racing and get it modified.
We're going to send off the block, get it bored and get it ready for those Wiseco pistons
that are going to punch it up to a 636.
It's going to be nice.
Well listen, if you need to reference any of the diagrams why don't you find us online
and take a look at those, kind of get an idea-- a visual idea of how all this stuff comes
apart and more importantly how it's all going to go back together.
Speaking of that, if you want to watch me put this back together, why don't you follow
us over to the next video and until then, we just want to say thanks for watching.