Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla,com.
Today I'm going to show you how to change out the front wheel bearings on our 2007 Suzuki
GSX-R1000.
Not too tough to do, just want to lift up the table a little bit so it's a little bit
easier to get to, take off that front tire, take it over to the teardown bench, and I'll
show you how to get it done.
So let's get started.
Alright guys, this is not going to be that though.
It's just barely a skill level two.
So, let's go over some of the tools you're going to need to pull this off.
A 10, a 12, and a 22mm socket, a decent 3/8th ratchet, maybe an extension, good hammer,
a punch tool, and as always a decent torque wrench.
Now one specialty tool you're going to need to get is a bearing driver set.
Pretty much need a wide range because what you're trying to do or what you have to do
is actually match up the outer diameter of your bearing and your dust seal with the correct
sized driver so you don't damage either one.
Now as far as the parts go, I'm actually using a complete kit that has all the parts necessary
to do the front and rear wheel.
But, in this particular video, I'm only doing the front.
So, if you're only doing the front, why don't you reference our parts diagrams at Partzilla.com
and you can pick out the pieces that you're going to need, which is basically the bearings
and those outer dust shields.
So, once you've got your tools and your parts together, we can go over there and I'll show
you how to get it done.
So, what I want to show you is these bearings are truly worn out on the front end.
When I would push it around it would go click, click, click.
And now that we've got it lifted, I'm just gonna rock it back and forth, but it should
move about a 16th of an inch.
I mean, that is substantial.
At speed, that is enough to get you into a lot of trouble.
So, let's go ahead and get this front tire off and get it over to the teardown bench.
Let's start off by getting these calipers out of the way.
They were just held in by four 12mm bolts.
Pretty simple stuff.
Next let's just go ahead and back off on our pinch bolts at the end of the forks.
That's just a 10mm.
Going to get this axle bolt off, going to be a 22mm.
Now, we should be able to just push our axle through and then lower the tire off.
And there she is.
Pretty simple to get this off.
Now all we need to do is just head over to the teardown bench and get those bearings
swapped out.
Okay, basically what you're looking at here is an outer dust seal, and there's going to
be a bearing, and there's going to be a spacer, and on the other side a duplicate bearing
and a duplicate dust seal.
I'm actually going to be using a kit from Suzuki, but it includes the front and the
rear bearings.
Now if you need just the front, we'd be glad to sell you those.
But if you're having a little bit of trouble up front, chances are your rear bearings are
probably due to get replaced as well, as is the case with this particular machine.
So, let's go ahead and get that dust cover pried off of either side and then we'll start
driving those bearings out.
A couple of different ways.
You know in the Suzuki manual they actually have a dust seal removal tool, looks like
a pair of jaws and it just kinda pries it out.
We're not reusing these, so typically I just put a flat blade screwdriver in there, turn
up, and pops it right out.
Let's do the same thing on the other side.
That's pretty funny.
Guess what?
there was no dust seal on the other side.
Gee, I wonder why the bearings failed?
So, let's continue on.
Just feeling this bearing, it feels a little bit scratchy.
I think that's where our problem was.
Someone decided they didn't want to put on a dust seal, and this is that happens.
There's a couple of different ways you can do this.
You can use what they call a blind bearing puller, actually goes in there with a couple
of jaws, you expand them out, pop them out.
That works sometimes, but you have to take a lot of effort to pop it out.
What I'm going to do is just lift it up, support the hub, and then just knock it out from both
sides.
What I've chosen as a collar that's gonna fit is as close as I can get to that edge
on the inside, and then I'm also going to put a cloth in there because I don't want
to damage the hub because it's going to be metal on metal.
Now, let's go ahead and get a punch and we're aiming just for the inside of that race.
Let's see if we can knock it out.
There you go, I think it did.
Let's go look.
Yeah.
There's our spacer, and there is our bearing.
look how nasty that is.
So, yeah, that's where all the looseness was.
See how much I can move that?
Whoo, even stinks!
Alright, that's one out.
Let's go ahead and knock out the other one.
There he goes.
Not as bad as the other side, but still pretty rough.
Next is a fair amount of dirt and debris, I want to get all of that out of there, so
let me get this cleaned up and then we'll continue.
What I'm going to do is use just a driver to push this in, just hammer it in.
Two things you have to be aware of.
One, you don't want to hurt your disc on the other side by having it press against it anywhere.
Second, when you're driving this in, you cannot drive by that inner section right there, that
inner race, because you do that and you're going to damage your bearing.
Where you do want to get is all the way out to this edge right here.
that's where you want to be.
So whatever driver-- bearing driver set you're using-- make sure it makes contact with that
outer section and not the inner section.
So, this already has grease inside the bearing, we're gonna pack a little more in there, and
this is actually a product made by Yamaha, Yamalube race grease.
Really good stuff here.
So, we're gonna get just a little more of this, finish packing the inside of these bearings.
And you want the exposed surface to go inside.
Before we start driving it in there, just want to take our hammer and lightly start
bringing it in.
this pretty much just centering it.
Makes sure it's not one way or another.
And that's just getting it started lightly.
Alright, I actually have this hub sitting on this surface, it's pushing directly into
that center of the hub.
This should not affect the brake disc on the other side.
So, let's go ahead and drive it in.
If you feel it kinda starting to lean one way or another like this one's trying to do,
Hold it over to that side and see if you can straighten back up.
Now when it bottoms out, it'll sound different.
It'll have almost like a thud that's driven all the way home.
That's what we're after.
There it is.
Alright, that is all the way in there now.
We'll flip it over, we'll go ahead and do the other side, then we'll do the dust seals
last one at a time.
Very important, don't forget this, your spacer.
So just go ahead and set it in place.
Then we'll take our other bearing and add just a little bit more grease to the bearing
surface.
Just cramming it in there.
Just a little more is not going to hurt it.
Alright, let's go ahead and get her started.
There she is.
Now, we can go ahead and put in our dust seals.
Once again, let's get some grease on that inner section, and we should be able to use
the same driver to go ahead and send that in.
What you're looking for is it goes flush with it.
So when you're using this kinda bring it to the outside.
That way it'll hit on the outside of the hub and not drive it too far in there.
So you just want it flush with the hub.
Alright, that looks good.
Let's flip it over and get the other side done.
Then we'll be about finished with this one.
A little bit more grease.
Let's get it started.
Alright, let's go.
Alright, let's get it back on the machine, finish this job up.
Alright we've pretty much got the wheel to go.
Just make sure you put this collar on the right hand side of the machine.
Tell you what, we're going to clean this axle up real quick and re-grease it.
Just want to get a thin coat of grease in this area and then especially right there
where that seal is going to be pushed through.
Alright, let's go ahead and lift her up and start feeding that axle through.
Now we just want to put on the axle bolt just hand tight to start with anyway.
Now let's go ahead and get the brake caliper back on.
Alright, let's go ahead and get those torqued down, and they're going to be set to 28 foot-pounds.
Alright, let's go ahead and get this front axle bolt torqued in.
Hold that with a 24mm on one side.
Alright, we're going to set it to 72.5 foot-pounds.
There it is.
Alright, let's go ahead and set our pinch bolts to 16.5 on the right side first.
And what we're going to do is drop it down, and we're just going to push down on the front
end about three or four times.
This just gets things centered.
And now, we can go ahead and do the left side pinch bolts.
Now, just for kicks, let's lift it back up and see how it feels, because remember before
I could click it back and forth.
There's no play in it whatsoever.
So, I feel a whole lot better about the front end of this machine.
Well listen, if you need any of the parts that we used, why don't you come see us at
Partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, just leave them in the section below and I'll do
my best to answer them.
Till next time we just want to say thanks for watching.