Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette. In today's
entry into our Timeless or Trend series, we'll be taking a look at the tote bag
and asking the question, "Is this an item for the ages or merely a passing fancy?"
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The tote back is perhaps one of the simplest forms of a carrying tool. It has a simple
body, which is closed on three sides. It is open at the top and has handles on opposite sides
that makes it easy for you to carry in hand, or over the shoulder. What's more, the etymology of
the word "tote" can actually be traced back to about 1670. Here, we see the word means "to carry." So, while
it's already starting to sound like this form of bag has an interesting history to it and there's
no denying that, in the modern day world, it's only recently been seen as a bag that's carried by men,
which makes it a perfect candidate for the series. First, let's take a look at the history of the tote
bag. During medieval times, it was common for both women and men to carry soft bags. They typically
wore these over the shoulder so that the opening was accessible at hip level. Sometimes with a
flapped opening, sometimes without. Kind of like a cross between a messenger bag and a tote bag.
For the majority of people, these bags would have been made of sturdy and inexpensive cloth, but
there were others who could afford to carry more expensive leather bags. And, as is always the case,
the very wealthy could afford to use bags that were adorned with intricate designs and embroidery,
such as precious metals or stones. This general design has remained largely unchanged for many
years, and we can see how the military haversack evolved from this but kept a lot of the designed
elements. These types of bags would be refined further into two directions. One with a flapped
closure and long, cross body strap that would equate to a messenger bag and the other will be
simplified into what we know today as simply the "tote bag." In 1944, US outdoor goods company, L.L. Bean,
marketed their Ice Carrier bag, a large open top bag constructed from sturdy builder's canvas
with a distinctive flat bottom and sides to enable transport of a greater volume of items. The design
existed as a way for users to carry heavy or difficult items from A to B. So, although it stated
"ice" on the label, L.L. Bean also suggested wood, garden vegetables, and other groceries as other contenders
to be carried in their bags. It's at this point that we can undoubtedly see the tote bag
in the form that we are used to seeing it in today. It's also worth pointing out at this point
that the tote bag was purely a utilitarian item and hadn't made its way yet into the realms of
fashion. Shortly after the introduction of the Ice Carrier, the company introduced a smaller version;
this time with the everyday shopper in mind. This design, also featured from builder's canvas,
features shorter handles and is particularly close to some of the designs that we see today
from modern tote bag. Twenty years after the introduction of the Ice Carrier,
L.L. Bean reinvented the bag as a way for people to easily pack things up for a day trip. This is where
we see the introduction of the Boat & Tote bag and the first time L.L. Bean incorporates considered
styling elements, such as contrasting color straps in unisex red, blue, or green. Meanwhile, in the 60s,
fashion designer Bonnie Cashin created her Cashin Carry Tote, this time out of leather instead
of canvas, before designing for leather goods brand Coach, who still produced luxury leather tote bags
inspired by Cashin's work. The 1980s was a big decade for the tote bag. Its utilitarian roots
were still going strong with the introduction of the iconic blue IKEA fracked bag and cheaper
cloth bags being used as a way of advertising, with the Strand Bookstore in New York City being one of
the first to do so. But, on the flip side of things, the tote bag was also soaring in the luxury sector.
Most notably, the Birkin, a bag named after British actress Jane Birkin after she was dissatisfied
with being able to find a bag that was big enough to fit all of her things without being a suitcase,
all while staying securely closed. This bag was designed and made by Hermes, And despite having a
slow start at first - probably something to do with the eye-watering Hermes prices - the attraction to
the Birken group and became a status symbol bag for the 90s and beyond. What's interesting today is
how the availability of tote bags is quite heavily split between luxury and function. It's clearly a
case that a tote bag can be inexpensive, simple, and utilitarian like the original Boat & Tote that
L.L. Bean still makes and sells today. And it's available from $25 to $40 depending on the
size or equally inexpensive are the branded tote bags that retailers, like the Strand Bookstore in
New York City use as an increasing effort to step away from single-use, plastic bags, often only being
a couple of dollars at the cash register, up to $10 or even $15 for a more premium version. And
I'm sure we've all experienced the 99-cent IKEA bag. All of these bags have function at the heart
of their design with no extracurricular additions. But, the tote bag can also be a very expensive
item, whether it's due to the inclusion of quality materials or the dedication of craftsmanship, such
as you would see in a leather tote bag by luxury luggage designer Bennett Winch, or because the tote
bag has been made by a high-end designer or label, like when Balenciaga had an original idea. Because
why spend less than a pound on something when you can spend $2,145 for it, right? Am I right?
Am I right?
I am right, right? So, we know that there are effectively two options when it comes to tote bags.
One: less money, focus on function. Two: quality and style, all with an increase in price, of course. But,
the thing we haven't discussed yet is: should men carry a tote bag? Although both men and women have
historically always carried bags and continues to do so today, since about the 60s, we see the
tote bag as a more female-forward item. There are several reasons why this might be the case.
It looks like a purse. Call it a handbag, a purse, whatever you want. There's no denying that, for many
years in recent history, a man's bag and a woman's bag just look different. Handbags and purses
aren't typically constrained by the dark tones and colors that men's bags are. Indeed, there's a whole
spectrum of color applied to bags for women. All bags for men are typically black or brown. This may
well be an extension of the fact that most men in modern history will carry a hard-sided briefcase
or attaché case, which you can find more about in our guide here. Because these bags were the first
portable hard drive, their use was confined to business and, therefore, formal situations, where
bright and colorful bags and accessories would have been seen as casual. This also means that
men's bags are without adornment of any kind, as this would also be deemed as less formal than a
plain dark bag or case. Whereas, handbags and purses are available in a myriad of different designs,
they support tons of different features, and embellishments. Think of it like a formal event
with a black or even white tie dress code. A man is expected to wear a dark suit, which is largely
devoid of any distracting details, and a woman can wear a dress or gown of color with interesting
designs and appliques. But, if you stop to think about it for a second, although a coat and tails
or tuxedo might seem a little bit plain, there is one thing that it has in spades - pockets. Yes, as
the two-piece suit or variation of has become the norm for menswear for many, many decades, women's
clothing has been somewhat lacking when it comes to pockets, which not only means that carrying
a bag has become quite essential for many women, it also means that many men haven't had to carry
a bag with them due to the multitude of pockets found throughout a suit. It's as we've moved into
the 21st century that the need to carry a bag has become more prevalent for men as we carry more and
more items that might not fit into a pocket or are, otherwise, too valuable to risk falling out
of a pocket. There's also the consideration that, as clothing has become more casual in the 21st
century, fewer people are wearing suits regularly, therefore losing some of the pocket space they
may have had. So, with the reduced number of men wearing suits every day, men need an alternative to
the super formal bags and cases that they used to carry because those skinny jeans and Air Jordans
just don't quite drive with an attaché case. But, a backpack or messenger bag slung over your shoulder
may make you feel like you haven't quite graduated from school yet, which is where the tote bag comes
into play. When done right, a tote bag can be an incredibly versatile bag, working well for both
casual and dressier outfits, therefore giving you the option to invest in just one bag, rather than
having several for different occasions. So, how can you achieve this? First up, you need to think about
the material that the bag is made from. Namely, it can't be hard-sided like the attaché case, but it
also shouldn't crumple to the floor the minute you put it on the ground. Leather is always going
to be the smartest option as well as the most hard-wearing. It also has a better ability to keep its
shape. Smooth leather, such as calfskin or saddle leather, will have a formal attached to them. While
suede or nubuck present a look that is a little bit more relaxed, but is easier to weatherproof
and is better for casual ensembles. Makers such as Frank Clegg and Bennett Winch are some
designers who make excellent examples of stylish leather tote bags which can be incorporated into
a classic wardrobe. And although the prices may seem steep at first, please remember that these
bags are an investment into long-term quality. One of the drawbacks of leather is its weight. This is
where a sturdy canvas or a waxed cotton tote bag really shines. Whether you decide to go for
an all-canvas version, like the one offered by The Armoury or a tote that has canvas and leather in
its construction, such as the Piccadilly model from Ettinger, a predominantly cloth-based tote bag will
be much lighter than a full-leather model and you should see a reduction in the upfront cost as well.
Bear in mind that unless waterproofing steps have been taken, cloth bags aren't going to perform
as well under adverse weather conditions as a leather model would. Design - this is the area in
which we look towards men's bag carrying history for some inspiration. Namely, keeping things simple.
Yes, it's true that you're going to want to keep your tote bag free of anything that might
prematurely age it, such as trendy logos or details or anything that draws undue attention to the bag
in a way that reduces its versatility. For example, a tote bag with a logo or graphic design on it
is a great way to do some sustainable shopping, but will, unfortunately, stick out like a sore thumb
at that work meeting. Simple, unfussy design is the name of the game when it comes to selecting a tote
bag that is going to give you the best of both worlds. Moving on from design, the features present
in a tote bag will determine how versatile it is for you. Of course, the main feature should be its
ability to easily carry medium to large items, so it needs to have a generous volume without being
cumbersome, ideally with a flat bottom to enable ease of storage within the bag itself. This is
probably a good time to evaluate your needs as we live in a world of a lot of personal technology.
For example, some might get frustrated with constantly having to fully zip and fully unzip
a specifically designed laptop bag, and it's so annoying to have to find a way to pack a cord or a
charger inside of one of those slim cases. This is where a tote bag can really become useful because
you can store things away and set things up as you choose to. But, of course, your needs may be
different from others. If you find a tote bag with an interior pocket, this can be a great thing. These
are usually found on lined versions of tote bags, although it is possible to find internal pockets
in unlined versions as well. An interior pocket is a great place for you to store the little things
and keep them safe - keys, headphones, charging cable, and the like. Ideally, this pocket will be zippered
or features some other closure method. But, even if it remains open, the ability to separate large
and small things within the bag will be welcomed. A tote bag that closes at the top will provide
extra security; not just from light fingers or stumble sending all of your belongings to the
ground, but security from the elements as well. As the biggest selling point of a tote bag can
also be its biggest downfall. If you can reach your bag's content easily, so can everything else
including that unexpected downpour. So, whether it's a zipper, snap, or tab closure, the trade-off
of a slightly reduced ease of access is going to pay off in the end. And finally, let's talk about
the handles. There's pretty much two schools of thought when it comes to the handles of a tote bag.
They're either long enough to hold at your side or over a shoulder or their shoulder in length
to be held just at the side like a briefcase. This one is going to be more of a matter of
personal preference. However, it's worth noting that the shorter, more briefcase-like handles
will look more formal because of the similarity of how these handles will look on bags like a
briefcase. Ultimately, whichever style of handle that you choose, a thicker, rounded handle,
preferably in leather, will be more comfortable in the hand and retain that classic touch. And that
brings us to the main question of today's video: are tote bags for men timeless or a passing trend?
Well, this is a bit of an odd one. As you can see, that historically, both men and women have enjoyed
carrying tote-like bags, even if they had more of an association with women in the 20th century.
We've also seen how tote bags can be designed and crafted with a male user in mind, that will fit in
with both contemporary and classic outfit choices, as a perfectly acceptable modern-day briefcase. So,
weighing up everything that we've explored today, I think it's safe to say that, well, at the moment,
due to the shorter length of time being carried by the modern man, they are a trend with a strong
possibility of becoming timeless. So, tote bags will be an interesting one to watch over the
coming years and maybe we'll be looking back at this video to reevaluate our own premonitions. So,
today, I'm wearing a blue and brown, plaid, unlined sport coat with patch pockets and mother-of-pearl
inspired buttons. I have a tanned, wool turtleneck on underneath and a pair of green trousers, brown
chukka boots, and Fort Belvedere socks. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop here for socks like these.
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