in the previous video I went through and Sarah coded these brake parts for my CRT
50 build to watch that video click the circle right up here in the corner
so today's project is rebuilding these brakes I've got the kits for both master
cylinders and calipers these have new o-rings seals washers pins everything
necessary to freshen up the brakes and then I've got a new set of gal 4 pads as
well big thank you to Rocky Mountain and all balls for sending over those kids if
any of you guys are gonna be rebuilding your brake systems I've got a video of
the disassembly of these brakes over on the channel this video will cover the
rebuild section of it I'm gonna go ahead and start with the front brake caliper
the first step is gonna be installing the new o-rings into the caliper body
they just pop in right back here to help with sliding the new o-rings into the
copper body I'll be applying some brake fluid to the bore of the caliper just
gonna pour a little bit of a brake fluid into the cap here
on this caliper we've got a thicker and a thinner o ring the thicker one is
going to go in first since it sits farther inside the caliper body
now for the thinner Oh ring this one just goes on the outer edge alright time
to pop in the seals for the other bore
I've got both sets of seals in and now they're ready for the Pistons
when you're installing the piston obviously you want it to go in straight
but also make sure you're not scratching up the outer surface here on the caliper
body as you're pushing it into place so the Pistons and openings went in pretty
easily but what I was curious about is if the seracote would hold up to brake
fluid I got a little bit here on the surface and I don't see any bubbling up
at all looks like it's holding up great all right next up it's pretty
straightforward it's got these new rubber grommets that pop into place as
well as the locating pins and the bleeder valve the thread onto the
caliper so for this rubber grommet a little bit of máxima assembly loop will
help slide that thing right into the caliper
for the Pens I'm bleeder valve I definitely recommend using some blue
loctite to keep them into place
finally I can slide the caliper onto the caliper mount but first definitely want
to grease up the caliper slide pins here I've got my mini grease gun and it is
filled up with maximum waterproof grease so I'm just gonna fill up these caliper
slide pinholes now I've got a caliper that just slides super smooth on the
pins before I install the new brake pads I've got a few clips to install here
alright that is one sweet looking caliper now it's on to the front brake
master cylinder alright now for the front master cylinder I've got this all
balls rebuild kit let's take a look what's inside okay so we've got a
replacement boot a new clip some washers for the banjo bolt
looks like more banjo washers seals for the piston a washer and finally a spring
for the piston as well looks like everything is here the first step to
putting this thing back together is installing the new o-rings and spring on
to the old piston just be using this little pick to work these seals off the
piston
of course as you're pullin old seals off you want to keep track of which one went
where and in what direction on this master cylinder we have two different
sizes and they were facing a specific way
so these seals are pretty tricky to get onto the piston but once you get it up
on to the shaft here to get it over this lip here I used a small flat blade
screwdriver to gently pry it up and over definitely don't want to pull it too
much or damage the outside of the seal the piston is all ready to go into the
cylinder now it's gonna loop it up with some brake foot and then on the end
opposite of the spring goes a washer and clip so this whole assembly slides into
the cylinder spring first before I pop that clip into place just gonna make
sure the piston operates smoothly this master cylinder is definitely a tough
one for getting that clip into place such little room to work with in there
all right so that wasn't too bad just compress the clip with the circlip
pliers and simultaneously push down the clip with the flat blade screwdriver and
then once again just gonna make sure the piston operates smoothly inside the
cylinder looks like ol bowls included a replacement boot here let me go ahead
and pop that into the cylinder to
so that is it for the piston installation just a couple things to
assemble up top here and just for temporary before I get these breaks onto
the bike and fill them open fluid kind of keep things clean by putting on the
master cylinder cap and of course I want to see how this thing looks all put
together
that is incredible looking love the combination of those two colors
definitely gonna need to get some new screws for the cap here and I'm hoping
to get some billet banjo bolts as well I got to give a big THANK YOU to maxima
for being a sponsor of all the fluids and grease for this build you can check
them out over at max my usa.com incredible products by the way as I was
ordering all the rebuild kits for these breaks I ordered the wrong front brake
master cylinder kit I ordered it for no.3 and I'm using a 2015 from master
cylinder so I've got an extra rebuild kit here and I figured why not do a
giveaway on it so I want you guys to write down below what your favorite
brand of bike is and then I'm gonna go through and pick a random comment and
I'll ship this reboot it over to you so this kit fits pretty much every honda
big bike from 96 to 18 besides the O 7 to 18 CRF 250 and 450 so
write your comment down below and hopefully I pick someone that could use
this kit all right now the rear brakes should be really similar to how the
Front's went together
so I'm installing the last part onto this rear brake caliper mount it's this
little clip for the brake pads and it doesn't fit very tightly inside that
groove it's got some wiggle room in it which is pretty common with them so what
you can do is bend the tabs on the end it's pretty simple grab a pair of needle
nose bend the tab just a little bit keep in mind as you're installing the brake
pads try not to touch the braking surface it's really sensitive to any
type of oil or residue that is going to be it for the rear caliper turned out
super good and now it's time to knock out the rear master cylinder
all right I was having some trouble getting this lower seal on just such a
tight fit on there and the hole is super small and what I did is I grabbed the
clevis off the master since the hole is about the same size as the bottom of
this piston and I was able to work the seal on by just pushing the piston
through the hole on the clevis worked out pretty slick
super super pumped with how these brakes came out and on top of that just got
some new brake lines in the mail I cannot wait to pair these up should look
pretty sweet so this project would have been possible without Rocky Mountain
Maxima all balls and trick engineering I'll put the links to their websites
down below I cannot wait to show you guys the upcoming projects for this
build make sure you hit that subscribe button to stay tuned alright I'll check
in with you later